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flesh


Mar 14, 2011, 12:46 PM
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milesenoell


Mar 14, 2011, 1:09 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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Are you putting these monstrous posts out for other people's benefit or to fish for constructive criticism?

edit: cause I came off as a dick


(This post was edited by milesenoell on Mar 14, 2011, 5:55 PM)


flesh


Mar 14, 2011, 1:26 PM
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milesenoell


Mar 14, 2011, 1:33 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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Sorry if I came off as dismissive, I was just being frank.


sungam


Mar 15, 2011, 4:32 AM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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Dunno why people are 1-starring you. Some interesting thing to discuss @ weighted large rungs over unweighted small rungs and such.


flesh


Mar 15, 2011, 2:51 PM
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lithiummetalman


Mar 15, 2011, 3:31 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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Willing to be a guinea pig...PM me...having a hard time seeing this (more a visual learner)


ryanb


Mar 15, 2011, 3:43 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
sungam wrote:
Dunno why people are 1-starring you. Some interesting thing to discuss @ weighted large rungs over unweighted small rungs and such.

It's the internet.

All I know is I do it and it works. I was very surprised just last night doing my weekly campusing session, I went from a previous best of six-7 reps on the smaller rungs to eight, on three different sets, In one week. I never would have thought safe gains could be made so quickly.

I'd love to see some people do this once a week for a month and report back.

Your posts are the most interesting thing on this site at the moment and I will certainly try some things from both this and the diet post.


flesh


Mar 15, 2011, 4:51 PM
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Rufsen


Mar 16, 2011, 5:15 AM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
ryanb wrote:
flesh wrote:
sungam wrote:
Dunno why people are 1-starring you. Some interesting thing to discuss @ weighted large rungs over unweighted small rungs and such.

It's the internet.

All I know is I do it and it works. I was very surprised just last night doing my weekly campusing session, I went from a previous best of six-7 reps on the smaller rungs to eight, on three different sets, In one week. I never would have thought safe gains could be made so quickly.

I'd love to see some people do this once a week for a month and report back.

Your posts are the most interesting thing on this site at the moment and I will certainly try some things from both this and the diet post.

Cool! Thanks... I figured there was someone not posting who might be as excited as me about this. I'm sure it's all been done before but it's new to me and I've been climbing forever it seems.

If anyone wants help with this just pm me, a couple others already have.

Well. Your original post does not contain much information beyond "weighted doubles on big rungs, 5-8 reps, five minutes rest between sets. Polymetric, open hand."

I've read it a few times and i still don't know how often you train, how much volume you do in a session or how often you climb or boulder in addition to your campus training. Those things are useful to know.

But otherwise interesting stuff, i might try some of it later when I'm not as focused on my sportclimbing fitness.


flesh


Mar 16, 2011, 10:16 AM
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Rufsen


Mar 17, 2011, 4:13 AM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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Sounds like a perfectly sound recruitment phase. Will probably try something like that out in the fall after this season is over, not going to change anything in my training right now.

I don't see why people are giving you 1 star for these posts. This is not radically different from campusing excersices described in SCC or Rockprodigys article.


flesh


Mar 18, 2011, 11:23 AM
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spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 11:25 AM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
Rufsen wrote:
Sounds like a perfectly sound recruitment phase. Will probably try something like that out in the fall after this season is over, not going to change anything in my training right now.

I don't see why people are giving you 1 star for these posts. This is not radically different from campusing excersices described in SCC or Rockprodigys article.


If someone ever does exactly what I've suggested for a whole month, I WILL get more stars, lol. I am simply astounded as to how much of a difference it makes. Just as significant as that, it doesn't hurt my connective tissue, only my muscles get sore. Between the two rung sizes I use, and by adding up to 30 lbs of weight, one could go from v6 to v13 with just these two rung sizes and variations in weight.
I'm with you on a lot of things, but do you honestly think that genetics don't play a role here? There are many, many people that simply would never be able to climb V10, much less V13.

I mean, honestly, Daniel Woods could just as easily come on here and post what he has done and say hat anyone could go from V13 to V15/V16, but do you think that'd happen for everyone?


Partner supersonick


Mar 18, 2011, 12:47 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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What V12(s) did you do? What V11s?


flesh


Mar 18, 2011, 7:36 PM
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spikeddem


Mar 18, 2011, 8:03 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
flesh wrote:
Rufsen wrote:
Sounds like a perfectly sound recruitment phase. Will probably try something like that out in the fall after this season is over, not going to change anything in my training right now.

I don't see why people are giving you 1 star for these posts. This is not radically different from campusing excersices described in SCC or Rockprodigys article.


If someone ever does exactly what I've suggested for a whole month, I WILL get more stars, lol. I am simply astounded as to how much of a difference it makes. Just as significant as that, it doesn't hurt my connective tissue, only my muscles get sore. Between the two rung sizes I use, and by adding up to 30 lbs of weight, one could go from v6 to v13 with just these two rung sizes and variations in weight.
I'm with you on a lot of things, but do you honestly think that genetics don't play a role here? There are many, many people that simply would never be able to climb V10, much less V13.

I mean, honestly, Daniel Woods could just as easily come on here and post what he has done and say hat anyone could go from V13 to V15/V16, but do you think that'd happen for everyone?

Honestly, your right. It does make a difference. Just look at how many injuries i've had.... yet many of my friends have had one or none.

However, I DO think pretty much anyone can get to v10.... beyond that.......

Me personally, I probably couldn't get past v10 if I had to do crimper problems, without getting injured, I already proved that 7 times! LOL

For me, if I stay open handed.... It seems I can try as hard as I want without any issues.

I assume alot of people are in the same boat. Crimping puts more stress on your connective tissue than open hand.
You really think anyone can get to V10? It's hard to say, but I'm not so sure.


flesh


Mar 21, 2011, 2:54 PM
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Jooler


Mar 21, 2011, 3:11 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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What about Verne Troyer (or someone of a similar stature)?

http://scrapetv.com/News/News%20Pages/Entertainment/images-4/verne-troyer-3.jpg


mr.tastycakes


Mar 21, 2011, 3:39 PM
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Re: [Jooler] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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Jooler wrote:
What about Verne Troyer (or someone of a similar stature)?

http://scrapetv.com/News/News%20Pages/Entertainment/images-4/verne-troyer-3.jpg

here's an 8 year old girl climbing V10:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/...-8-power-silence-v10


Jooler


Mar 21, 2011, 3:44 PM
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Re: [mr.tastycakes] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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You must be looking at the wrong picture if you think an 8 year old girl and a little person have same body types...


I'm not trying to be inconsiderate, so I hope I don't come across that way Unsure


spikeddem


Mar 21, 2011, 4:46 PM
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Re: [flesh] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
flesh wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
flesh wrote:
Rufsen wrote:
Sounds like a perfectly sound recruitment phase. Will probably try something like that out in the fall after this season is over, not going to change anything in my training right now.

I don't see why people are giving you 1 star for these posts. This is not radically different from campusing excersices described in SCC or Rockprodigys article.


If someone ever does exactly what I've suggested for a whole month, I WILL get more stars, lol. I am simply astounded as to how much of a difference it makes. Just as significant as that, it doesn't hurt my connective tissue, only my muscles get sore. Between the two rung sizes I use, and by adding up to 30 lbs of weight, one could go from v6 to v13 with just these two rung sizes and variations in weight.
I'm with you on a lot of things, but do you honestly think that genetics don't play a role here? There are many, many people that simply would never be able to climb V10, much less V13.

I mean, honestly, Daniel Woods could just as easily come on here and post what he has done and say hat anyone could go from V13 to V15/V16, but do you think that'd happen for everyone?

Honestly, your right. It does make a difference. Just look at how many injuries i've had.... yet many of my friends have had one or none.

However, I DO think pretty much anyone can get to v10.... beyond that.......

Me personally, I probably couldn't get past v10 if I had to do crimper problems, without getting injured, I already proved that 7 times! LOL

For me, if I stay open handed.... It seems I can try as hard as I want without any issues.

I assume alot of people are in the same boat. Crimping puts more stress on your connective tissue than open hand.
You really think anyone can get to V10? It's hard to say, but I'm not so sure.

I'd like to say YES, almost anyone could do it. For example, anyone willing to do the following/basically the work.

-5% body fat.
-Spend 5+ years training power with bouldering/power oriented training.
-Climb open handed 90% of your climbing.
-Get enough nutrients
-stay injury or almost injury free/by doing what you'll find in that forum

It's possible for anyone to do those things if they desired. None of those things have much to do with genetic limitations.

I don't believe one could say they couldn't climb v10 due to anything but personal limiting beliefs until they've done the above listed things, imo.

I was tested at 6.5% body fat at 5 11 3/4 and 158 lbs this weekend. I plan on cutting about 4 lbs and getting to 5% then maintaining that.

FYI, I would have disagreed with me one year ago ;)

Hmm. I don't have any evidence; the only argument I can really make is "Why not V11?" If you think anyone could do V11, then why not V12? (and so on)


mr.tastycakes


Mar 22, 2011, 7:48 AM
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Re: [Jooler] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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Jooler wrote:
You must be looking at the wrong picture if you think an 8 year old girl and a little person have same body types...


I'm not trying to be inconsiderate, so I hope I don't come across that way Unsure

Well, they're both little, at least. But, if you want to see someone who can climb well despite actually physical deformities, look up Philippe Ribiere. Of course, he's much bigger than Verne Troyer.

I think whether the average climber could climb V10 is an interesting topic of conversation. In Dave Graham's rambling wizardry interview he says he thinks the average climber can get to V10 because it's just "not that hard." As a mediocre/poor climber, I hope he's at least partially right. Wink


spikeddem


Mar 22, 2011, 7:51 AM
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Re: [mr.tastycakes] v9-v12 in 3 months, my power training. [In reply to]
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mr.tastycakes wrote:
I think whether the average climber could climb V10 is an interesting topic of conversation. In Dave Graham's rambling wizardry interview he says he thinks the average climber can get to V10 because it's just "not that hard." As a mediocre/poor climber, I hope he's at least partially right. Wink

Flesh has been saying that any climber (barring obvious physical impedances) could reach V10. Not just the average climber. I think that's even less likely.


flesh


Mar 22, 2011, 11:49 AM
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