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flesh
Mar 16, 2011, 5:36 PM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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What I've found works best for BIG moves and body tension in general is two things.
One, with climbing shoes on, at a gym preferably (or on a system board on a woody, know what that is?) find some easy v2 jug hauls or whatever and alternate different lock off positions with your feet on. Do this, while in a drop knee with smallish footholds, reach as far as you can or to the next hold but don't grab it, count to five, one one thousand, etc, then grab the next hold. Repeat.
Mix it up, next time do it in the froggy position, with both knees spread apart, hold the lockoff position at full extention and count it out.
Next, do the same thing but with only one foot on instead of two feet. Or, do it with underclings, gastons, sidepulls, each different position with hands and feet you lock off in at full extention will train slightly different muscles.
Mix it up, do those three exercises with different overhanging angles.
Smaller foot holds with big hand holds are best for this. The goal isn't to pump out your fingers. Smaller footholds require more body tension.
Please don't flame me for calling it body tension, lol, that's what I call it, the training works.
Risk, this may cause elbow tendonitis if you do it too much. I'd limit it to a max of one hard session per week, do it in conjuntion with triangle push ups to focus on the opposing muscle group, the triceps, etc, low weight high reps. Also, get a light dumbell and work the top of the forearm by resting your forearm on a bench with your wrists/hands hanging over the side and lift the weight all the way down and up, high reps, low weight.
You'll see big gains within a couple of these sessions.
Another thing for big moves/body tension, boulder at the gym with your street shoes on. Purposely, keep your feet on every foothold without letting your feet cut. It takes much more core tension and lockoff power to do this. And, it's kinda fun.
Warm up first.
(This post was edited by flesh on Mar 16, 2011, 6:22 PM)
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rtwilli4
Mar 16, 2011, 8:50 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
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I like you're posts. I'm usually a skeptic and a dick head to people like you but I haven't found anything that you've written so far that I completely disagree with. That's not to say that I'm qualified to agree or disagree with you, but I think the information is logical and interesting.
That said, I really think that you should compile all of your information and organize it a bit better so that you can write an actual program that people could use.
It would be worth doing some research and coming up with weekly and monthly plans that climbers could turn into a cycle. You have tried to incorporate many aspects of training and given advice for what to do, how often, when to stop, etc; but you could certainly put it together in a format that takes into account the training cycles that we are familiar with.
One reason that I like the Self Coached Climber is that it incorporates grade into every part of the training, so as to give climbers a starting point and a goal. It seems as if you have a program in your head, but it is hard for me to understand the big picture by reading certain ideas whenever you feel like posting them up.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that you should put together a document that contains all of the information in an organized way, and maybe create a few example training plans for climbers of different skill levels. Post it up online, and try and get people to read it. Start a blog... do something with all of your information that is a bit more organized and easier to digest.
Well done though... I'm interested.
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flesh
Mar 16, 2011, 9:40 PM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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Sure, you bet. I can already imagine how I would do it. However, It take me some time to research cycles, haha, my cycles revolve around work, when I can take vacation, when the whether good for bouldering or route climbing. However, putting these things into different skill level categories would be easy enough.
I've left alot out really, in terms of knowing what not to do and what to do, etc. due to length.
Another guy pmed me about filming a video of my campusing, I thought I'd do that sometime in the next week and then post a link of it on that thread.
It's easy to take things for granted that you learned along time ago.
Maybe if ppl like the campus video I could do one
for body tension.
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rtwilli4
Mar 17, 2011, 11:50 AM
Post #4 of 5
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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Video's would be great, but I still think that the content would be more effective if it were laid out as a training plan in one document.
If people ever want to go back and re-read your information here or send it to a friend, they have to go and find all of your different posts (I'm sure you want to make more). Instead, get a Wordpress.com site and create a training plan. You could do it blog style or just get it all up on the site at once. Either way you can customize it with pics and vids, you can update it or add tips in as new posts as time goes on, and people can comment directly on your site. Then when you make a new post or add a new element... just post up a link on RC.com, Facebook, wherever you want to post your link.
The cycles you describe for yourself are similar to any climbers cycles. We all have to work, and most people must plan far ahead for vacation time. Weather is alway a concern as well. Anyone can create a training program for their own schedule if they know how. That's where you come in. You seem to understand most of the major concepts that I know to be important in training... I just think it would flow better if you organized it all.
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kaizen
May 2, 2011, 2:53 PM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: Apr 17, 2009
Posts: 154
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flesh wrote: What I've found works best for BIG moves and body tension in general is two things. One, with climbing shoes on, at a gym preferably (or on a system board on a woody, know what that is?) find some easy v2 jug hauls or whatever and alternate different lock off positions with your feet on. Do this, while in a drop knee with smallish footholds, reach as far as you can or to the next hold but don't grab it, count to five, one one thousand, etc, then grab the next hold. Repeat. Mix it up, next time do it in the froggy position, with both knees spread apart, hold the lockoff position at full extention and count it out. Next, do the same thing but with only one foot on instead of two feet. Or, do it with underclings, gastons, sidepulls, each different position with hands and feet you lock off in at full extention will train slightly different muscles. Mix it up, do those three exercises with different overhanging angles. Smaller foot holds with big hand holds are best for this. The goal isn't to pump out your fingers. Smaller footholds require more body tension. Please don't flame me for calling it body tension, lol, that's what I call it, the training works. Risk, this may cause elbow tendonitis if you do it too much. I'd limit it to a max of one hard session per week, do it in conjuntion with triangle push ups to focus on the opposing muscle group, the triceps, etc, low weight high reps. Also, get a light dumbell and work the top of the forearm by resting your forearm on a bench with your wrists/hands hanging over the side and lift the weight all the way down and up, high reps, low weight. You'll see big gains within a couple of these sessions. Another thing for big moves/body tension, boulder at the gym with your street shoes on. Purposely, keep your feet on every foothold without letting your feet cut. It takes much more core tension and lockoff power to do this. And, it's kinda fun. Warm up first. |
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