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JoshU


Mar 24, 2011, 1:52 PM
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Help me design a hangboard
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Hey Everyone,

I run my own woodworking studio and have some ideas for a wood hangboard. Wood seems to have some advantages over resin and I thought people might be interested in this option. Good idea? If you were looking to buy a hangboard, what features are you looking for? Thanks for your input!

Josh


JoshU


Mar 25, 2011, 1:17 PM
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Maybe I can help a little. I've found that when I train on plastic, it just destroys my hands regardless of how much outdoor climbing I'm doing. I know wood solves this problem so what are the drawbacks? A great hangboard for me would have a mix of slopers, pockets, jugs. Am I missing anything here?

Josh


Jooler


Mar 25, 2011, 1:22 PM
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Pinches...
Crimps...


shockabuku


Mar 25, 2011, 1:30 PM
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Pinches - my weakest grip orientation and trained on few hangboards.

I like the Nicros idea of modular hangboards so you can change hold size/type.


ryanb


Mar 25, 2011, 2:03 PM
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Wood is the way to go for hangboards. http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/ is the current best I know of. The slopers on it are awesome but it has no pinches and I would sacrifice some of the pockets for a greater variety of edges. You can just use two fingers on an edge to make it feel like a pocket.


JoshU


Mar 26, 2011, 10:04 AM
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Appreciate the responses. I'm working on the prototype and will post some pics when it's done.


flesh


Mar 26, 2011, 10:21 AM
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JoshU wrote:
Hey Everyone,

I run my own woodworking studio and have some ideas for a wood hangboard. Wood seems to have some advantages over resin and I thought people might be interested in this option. Good idea? If you were looking to buy a hangboard, what features are you looking for? Thanks for your input!

Josh

Of course you'd want an assortment of holds... I would put more open handed holds... you don't want to be hanging off small crimps very often.

Also, if you have the knowledge and tools to make what you want ... maybe make it like 3 feet tall.... and add three campus rungs to it... that way you could skip one rung going up or down... it would add alot to your workouts, dynamic movement's more realistic and that way you train hte pulll muscles too. Plus it's more fun than just hanging on holds and will keep you more motivated.


JoshU


Apr 15, 2011, 6:01 PM
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Okay so I have a prototype and I'll admit it's definitely missing something. I think it's a good start but would love hear your opinions. The picture doesn't show it but the top and sides are rounded over and can be fully gripped.
Attachments: hangboard.png (105 KB)


cacalderon


Apr 15, 2011, 6:12 PM
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looks good, thanks for sharing.

what wood is this ?

you need pockets and slopers.

also, you can work on making it look cooler.... round the edges a bit..


Partner jammer


Apr 15, 2011, 10:21 PM
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You can take some ideas from here ...




JoshU


Apr 16, 2011, 9:42 AM
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The wood is walnut which is just what I had on hand. I can do other hardwoods too. Yes, I will make it "cooler" looking on future models :). This is just a first attempt and figuring out what hold types to put on it. Thanks for your input.

Josh


garythenuke


Apr 17, 2011, 8:19 AM
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That looks pretty cool. i like the idea of pinch holds and definitely need slopers. I have a cryptochild iron palm that I love. My wife calls it my "bro"... I know it looks funky and doesn't seem to have the variation of many of the other boards, but it is just about perfect for me. If I need much more than the bro I'll try to go climbing....


rhei


Apr 18, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Your prototype has horizontal ledges and crimps. The newer Metolius fingerboard angled the crimps and ledge holds away from absolutely horizontal, which seems easier (less stressful) on the elbows and shoulders. It's a modification I personally enjoy and would like to see more widely adopted.

Are the depths in your horizontal holds different? Can't tell from the photo. More than a pad deep is good for beginning training, but half-pad depth will be more useful for more advanced training.

Using vertical slots to create pinches is clever. You might experiment with width between the slots. What you have in the prototype looks narrow to me, but others may want to comment on that.


boadman


Apr 18, 2011, 12:43 PM
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Vertical pinches are really hard on wrists. It would be cool to have some pinches on the bottom edge that one could work with straight wrists. I'm not sure what your vertical slots are for? Seems like it could change to three pockets. I like the way the moon board holds are curved down, it makes it very tendon friendly.


KirbyC


Apr 18, 2011, 12:49 PM
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The old style metolius simulator had "bear-claw" grips, that had separate very shallow divots for each finger, and a thumb. They were REALLY hard to hang on to, and really fun. I wish they still made a board with those on there--maybe that's something you'd like to offer?

If you are having trouble picturing this, do a quick search of the forums on this site and find an earlier post of mine where i uploaded a picture of one.

Good luck!


ryanb


Apr 18, 2011, 3:43 PM
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rhei wrote:
Your prototype has horizontal ledges and crimps. The newer Metolius fingerboard angled the crimps and ledge holds away from absolutely horizontal, which seems easier (less stressful) on the elbows and shoulders. It's a modification I personally enjoy and would like to see more widely adopted.

Are the depths in your horizontal holds different? Can't tell from the photo. More than a pad deep is good for beginning training, but half-pad depth will be more useful for more advanced training.

Using vertical slots to create pinches is clever. You might experiment with width between the slots. What you have in the prototype looks narrow to me, but others may want to comment on that.

That the new metolius boards are an improvement is debatable. Lots of people feel a horizontal layout is less likely to hurt you and i don't think there is any science either way.

Sonnie Trotter has a good write up of his board design including his thoughts on the issues and on including pinches:
http://sonnietrotter.com/2009/03/09/sonnies-simple-training-tip-of-the-week/

I still think the beastmaker is the best board in town though.


rhei


Apr 18, 2011, 5:15 PM
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ryanb,

Thanks for bringing up Sonnie Trotter's blog. I'll admit that my favorable impression of the new design Metolius hangboard is based on limited use. Sonnie's experience with the Powerjunkie (a board I've never tried) is certainly worth considering.

Have others who have used the Powerjunkie or the new design Metolius board had problems like Sonnie describes?


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