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Bad Habits
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1robclark


Mar 21, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Bad Habits
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While reading up on some threads on multi-pitch belay anchors, I started comparing my own technique to the ones being discussed.

When I first started going out to climb sport routes, I was told it was fine to clip a daisy with a locking biner at the end and one on a loop in the middle into the top bolts before setting up draws to rap off.

After reading about sliding X anchors and cordalettes equalizing my powerpoint, I am thoroughly confused. Was the way I was doing it before that dangerous? It sure seems like it thinking back. And what are some efficient methods for setting up anchors that will work for both single and multipitch sport climbs?


vegastradguy


Mar 21, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Re: [1robclark] Bad Habits [In reply to]
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two draws for single pitch. done.

for multpitch, because you'll want to conserve draws (pitches have up to 12 draws (or more), plus 4 for anchors), i go with a 48" sling clipped to each bolt, then pulled down and tied off into a master point or a super-8 with the rope. depends on my mood and the stance.


bearbreeder


Mar 22, 2011, 12:26 AM
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Re: [1robclark] Bad Habits [In reply to]
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on bomber bolt belays?

sliding X ... and clove in with the rope

for single pitch ... 2 draws opposed ...


jeepnphreak


Mar 22, 2011, 1:40 PM
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Re: [1robclark] Bad Habits [In reply to]
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1robclark wrote:
While reading up on some threads on multi-pitch belay anchors, I started comparing my own technique to the ones being discussed.

When I first started going out to climb sport routes, I was told it was fine to clip a daisy with a locking biner at the end and one on a loop in the middle into the top bolts before setting up draws to rap off.

After reading about sliding X anchors and cordalettes equalizing my powerpoint, I am thoroughly confused. Was the way I was doing it before that dangerous? It sure seems like it thinking back. And what are some efficient methods for setting up anchors that will work for both single and multipitch sport climbs?

first read here
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...angers-en-glbl-en-us
daisy are for aid.

For single pitch two locking draws and done.

For multi pitch a sliding X is great, a quad work as well. if there are just to rap anchors than locking draws work as well, save the coroletts for comples trad anchors. with bolts I have never need a reason other than to extend a anchor over a edge for corgoletts. There really is not ste in stone method for climbing, just more efficient ways. Most importantly it is to be safe and get off the rock alive

I do like to use a PAS formulitpitch anchoring for three reasons
1. it keep the rope freed up for more flexibility if you needed it. I remember one route that I was on we used the rope as an anchor and clove hitch, turned out that we then did not have enough rope to make the next pitch. So while the belayer (me) was taring down the anchor the leader was hanging out 10 feet form the top of the pitch waiting for more rope. since the PAS that has never happen again. And is much cheaper than buying a new rope.
2. can be used to extend rappels and used as slings and each loop is fully rated so it make a neat rescue tool.
3. great work bench for clipping racks, gear and managing the rope. you can drape the rope over the PAS rather than you leg so if you have to move you are not buried under 180 feet to rope soon to become a spaghetti pile.

like i said there is not a set way to do things, but play around and find what works for you.


petsfed


Mar 22, 2011, 2:44 PM
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Re: [vegastradguy] Bad Habits [In reply to]
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vegastradguy wrote:
two draws for single pitch. done.

for multpitch, because you'll want to conserve draws (pitches have up to 12 draws (or more), plus 4 for anchors), i go with a 48" sling clipped to each bolt, then pulled down and tied off into a master point or a super-8 with the rope. depends on my mood and the stance.

And depending on the approach and the accuracy of your beta, you could just keep using draws for the whole climb (provided its all bolts). If you have slings, that's my preference, since you don't have to use as much rope to get a good equaliztion going, but still.


rtwilli4


Mar 24, 2011, 5:28 PM
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Re: [bearbreeder] Bad Habits [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
on bomber bolt belays?

sliding X ... and clove in with the rope

for single pitch ... 2 draws opposed ...

Me to.


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