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Time for a new harness, what to buy?
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p8ntballsk8r


Mar 25, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Time for a new harness, what to buy?
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I've been sport climbing for about 2 years with a Black Diamond Momentum AL. I've also used the harness for snowkiting and kiteboarding. If you don't know what this is - basically a sport to snowboard or mountain board on flat ground behind a very large (mine is 12m) kite. On windy days you can get to speeds in excess of 30 MPH. The reason I'm replacing the harness is along with fast speeds and big jumps, comes getting uncontrollably dragged across the snow/ice/grass/dirt or whatever surface I'm on.

The harness looks ok, I can't see anything visibly wrong with it. Actually I can, but its the elastic straps in the back that connect the waist to the leg loops. Not like they are load bearing anyways.

I made a thread about this last year, and got a lot of votes for replacing the harness. Since I'll be leading the majority of my climbs this summer, the last thing I want is to be worried about my harness holding up or being able to successfully hold me if I take a whipper.

My main use will be sport climbing (2-3 days a week), and belaying 5 days a week.

Should I get another Momentum? I liked the harness and it was fairly comfortable. Is it really worth it for me to spend any more on a nicer/better harness?


redlude97


Mar 25, 2011, 2:26 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Time for a new harness, what to buy? [In reply to]
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if its just the back straps just tape them they don't provide any real functionality


p8ntballsk8r


Mar 25, 2011, 2:46 PM
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Re: [redlude97] Time for a new harness, what to buy? [In reply to]
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I think you're right that I'm being overly cautious, I've never heard of a harness breaking, and all the buckles are in great shape. I'll take it to my climbing gym and see what they have to say.


kevthegerman


Mar 25, 2011, 2:48 PM
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Re: [redlude97] Time for a new harness, what to buy? [In reply to]
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Pezel Adjama or whatever it is called... i just got one after owning the BD momentum.. it is by far a lot more comfortable..esp on hanging MP belays or belaying a climber who is "working" a climb..


p8ntballsk8r


Mar 26, 2011, 9:36 AM
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Re: [kevthegerman] Time for a new harness, what to buy? [In reply to]
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I don't think I'll be doing MultiPitch climbs for at least a year. My main belaying use is to belay people that are lighter than I am or to belay TR as I am generally the one who leads the routes


dretket


Mar 26, 2011, 8:34 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Time for a new harness, what to buy? [In reply to]
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I don't think you're being overly cautious. If you want to read a sad story about a harness breaking, google Todd Skinner. He lost his life after his well worn harness broke during a repel. If you have any doubts about the integrity of your gear, replace it. You're life is easily worth the 50-100 bucks spent on a new harness.


p8ntballsk8r


Mar 27, 2011, 12:16 AM
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Re: [dretket] Time for a new harness, what to buy? [In reply to]
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Had my harness evaluated by the employee's at my local rock gym. All of them said it looked just fine. I always tie in when I climb so the belay loop won't be an issue. The only rappels I do are after setting a top rope. Since I mostly sport climb, this will happen less than 20 times in the next summer. I'll be sure to use a prussik and attach it to one of the hard points on my harness when rappelling. When I'm belaying, there is a slim chance anyone will outweigh me even though I fluctuate between 165 and 175 lbs at the moment. I now feel confident in my harness, if you disagree, please voice your opinion.


rtwilli4


Mar 29, 2011, 2:38 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Time for a new harness, what to buy? [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
Had my harness evaluated by the employee's at my local rock gym. All of them said it looked just fine. I always tie in when I climb so the belay loop won't be an issue. The only rappels I do are after setting a top rope. Since I mostly sport climb, this will happen less than 20 times in the next summer. I'll be sure to use a prussik and attach it to one of the hard points on my harness when rappelling. When I'm belaying, there is a slim chance anyone will outweigh me even though I fluctuate between 165 and 175 lbs at the moment. I now feel confident in my harness, if you disagree, please voice your opinion.

This last statement you made really scares me.

20 times is 20 times too many if you are worried about your belay loop. If you are really worried about it, attaching a prussik to a hard point is a shitty way to solve the problem. BUY A NEW ONE!

Moreover, if you are sport climbing, you are CATCHING FALLS ON YOUR BELAY LOOP! Maybe an old worn out belay loop doesn't concern you since you don't tie into it, but you're partners life depends on it every time you put him on belay. BUY A NEW ONE!

And the employees at your climbing gym are just about as qualified to asses your harness as one of your kite boarding friends. I use an old harness for the gym and I've backed up the belay loop with some 1" webbing tied in a water knot. When I joined a new gym last month one of the employees told me that I should "never rely on a bit of old tat to hold a fall." I politely explained to him that the webbing was new and he responded "well maybe but it's still not strong enough to hold a lead fall by itself." I explained that before sewn slings and belay loops, climbers fell on this kind of webbing regularly. His response was that "the accident rate was much higher back then." Point is, as scary as it sounds, you probably know more than the climbing gym guys.

Use that squishy stuff between your ears. Get a new harness to climb in and use the old one to get drug through the snow.


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