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sbaclimber
Mar 18, 2011, 6:40 AM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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Sweet! My Adirondack Rock guide book arrived yesterday in the mail.
Awesome job, Jim and Jeremy, it is even better than I expected.
Thank you for the immediate shipping too!
I finally got around to ordering the guide, because I will be going back to the 'dacks for a visit in late summer this year. We will be there for a few weeks (3-ish?) visiting family and friends, but I am definitely hoping and planning to be able to get out for 3-4 climbing day-trips in that time.
Now that I have the guide book, I have started to put together a wish/tick-list, and would be keen to hear any suggestions those of you with some more recent 'dacks experience and/or better memories than mine have.
(it has been over a decade since I was there)
Assuming I get back in shape before heading state-side, I will probably be most interested in relatively easy (<=5.8) multipitch and maybe slightly harder (up to 10a/b) "sprad" cracks.
My list so far looks like this (in no particular order):
Poko always wanted to climb here, somehow never made it...
- Gamesmanship (+ The Sting)
- Catharsis
Roger's all-time favorite, always worth a visit
- Little Finger (w/ Bill's and/or variations)
- Other lines will depend on my head-space 
Tongue Mt Cliff(?) only if I up ending spending some time with family close by
Spider's Web never felt strong enough for this one.....maybe this time around?
- Mr Roger's Neigborhood
- On The Loose (I see hang-dogging)
- Drop, Fly, Die (HA! I wish...)
Crane Mt I feel obligated to return and lead these lines, just doesn't feel right only having 2nded them
- Prone To Wander
- Brighter Visions
- Mortal Strife
Hurricane
- Quadrophenia
BTW, I will be posting up looking for partners in the Climbing Partners forum once I know what the trip dates are. 
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Mar 18, 2011, 6:41 AM)
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davidbr
Mar 19, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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I'd have to add The El at Pitchoff Chimney Cliff, and Diagonal on Wallface.
Would reccomend the 5.6 start to The El (think it has its own name, but can't remember it) and splitting the traverse pitch into two short pitches by belaying at the outside corner. If you do it as one pitch, the belayer can't see or hear the leader at the crux (which is the end of the traverse) and I've heard a rope was damaged by a fall on this traverse. I don't know if that's true (can anyone confirm it?) but it isn't hard to see how it could happen, and I think the risk would be eliminated by breaking the pitch up.
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LostinMaine
Mar 19, 2011, 1:06 PM
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Registered: May 8, 2007
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Send me a PM when you are in the area. I'm always up for long moderates in the 'dacks. If you're coming in from away, I would happily supply the canoe to get to Roger's.
I would say...
Little Finger with the 5.7 hook up with LF direct, also Screaming Meanie on Roger's.
- FM
- Prince
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rtwilli4
Mar 19, 2011, 1:27 PM
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The Fastest Gun at Poko... don't remember the grade on that one.
Esthesia at Spider's Web is great - 10a.
There's a 5.8 corner at Spider's Web that is fun, and IIRC it shares an anchor with an amazing 5.11 finger crack, so you could do a few TR burns.
Beer Walls are stacked with classics at all grades. Also the slabs look cool but I never got up there.
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sbaclimber
Mar 19, 2011, 3:19 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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Thank you all for your recommendations so far!
davidbr wrote: I'd have to add The El at Pitchoff Chimney Cliff, and Diagonal on Wallface.
I would love to do Wallface, but it might be a bit much of a hike for a day-trip...
LostinMaine wrote: I would say... Little Finger with the 5.7 hook up with LF direct, also Screaming Meanie on Roger's. - FM - Prince
Thanks for the recommendations of FM and Prince, both look good!
PS, Screaming Meaney is a good tip too. I remember leading P2 15-odd years ago on doubles and having some of the worst rope drag I have ever experienced, before or since. I haven't done the route since...it might be time to return with a much thinner single line.
rtwilli4 wrote: The Fastest Gun at Poko... don't remember the grade on that one. Esthesia at Spider's Web is great - 10a. There's a 5.8 corner at Spider's Web that is fun, and IIRC it shares an anchor with an amazing 5.11 finger crack, so you could do a few TR burns. Beer Walls are stacked with classics at all grades. Also the slabs look cool but I never got up there.
The Beer Walls and Chapel Pond slab are both great areas. I have climbed at both quite a bit though, so are more my "plan B", should my preferred routes/areas not work out.
David and Lost, I will definitely be in contact! I would be stoked if schedules allowed for some climbing together. (canoe for Roger's is always a bonus too  )
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Mar 20, 2011, 1:57 AM)
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c4c
Mar 20, 2011, 5:14 AM
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Registered: Jun 18, 2006
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definitely check out their web site too http://www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm as they keep excellent track of any new routes that have been developed since the last printing.
All at crane:
Measles wall
second job
stairway to heaven
Black arch arete
eatin tripe and lichen it
parallel passage
carpenter and das
a peney for my freedom
oddy's crack of horrors
mohammed larry and curly
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sbaclimber
Mar 20, 2011, 5:59 AM
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c4c wrote: definitely check out their web site too http://www.adirondackrock.com/newroutes.htm as they keep excellent track of any new routes that have been developed since the last printing. All at crane: Measles wall second job stairway to heaven Black arch arete eatin tripe and lichen it parallel passage carpenter and das a peney for my freedom oddy's crack of horrors mohammed larry and curly
Thanks for reminding me of the New Route list on their website too.
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Adk
Mar 20, 2011, 4:35 PM
Post #8 of 14
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Gabe,
That guide ROCKS!!!
Let me know when you are coming!!!!
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sbaclimber
Mar 21, 2011, 12:58 AM
Post #9 of 14
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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Adk wrote: Gabe, That guide ROCKS!!! Let me know when you are coming!!!!
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mpg76
Mar 30, 2011, 4:49 PM
Post #10 of 14
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Registered: Mar 23, 2011
Posts: 12
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if your going to rogers rock you should hit up tounge asits right down the road from r.r. well half hour anyway. also try out shelving rock, dont forget your helmet though.
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sbaclimber
Mar 31, 2011, 1:12 AM
Post #11 of 14
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mpg76 wrote: if your going to rogers rock you should hit up tongue as it's right down the road from r.r. well half hour anyway. also try out shelving rock, dont forget your helmet though.
Just had a look at the Shelving Rock guide online. It does look good, and not to worry, I will have my helmet.
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sbaclimber
Jul 24, 2011, 11:52 AM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2004
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Trip dates are finally set in stone! We'll be landing on the 26th of August and leaving the 16th of September.
Hopefully we'll find some dates to climb together Dave, Dave, and LostInMaine (sorry, don't know your first name)!
I'll send you guys my email address by PM. If you have any time to climb around then, that would be awesome.
I've also started a thread in the partners forum.
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rtwilli4
Jul 24, 2011, 12:13 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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I'll post over in the partners forum as well but I wanted to get in on the action!
I'm going to up road tripping up there for about the same time. Will be in the Gunks the weekend of the 26th but after that I have no plans.
I've been to Spider's Web and the Beer Walls before and know of a great free campsite that is within walking distance of both.
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vtaylor
Jul 25, 2011, 2:20 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2011
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i live in albany ny and would be up for a trip to the adks sometime. if anyone needs a climbing partner i would most likely be available to make a day trip or spend a couple of days, ill be there camping through out the summer as well
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