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jt512
Apr 1, 2011, 4:27 AM
Post #1 of 11
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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For full story, go to http://alpinist.com, then click on the following image on the front page:
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 1, 2011, 4:40 AM)
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bearbreeder
Apr 1, 2011, 4:37 AM
Post #2 of 11
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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what date is it mista jay 
http://www.alpinist.com/.../ms-ss-drilling-time
Clean Ascent Hammer Drill: Safety On Lead
POSTED ON: APRIL 1, 2011
free willy
MSRP $1500
Hanging on a fist jam four pitches off the ground in Lofoten, last summer, I looked down below me to see the worried look on my partner's face. I could see in the way he shifted his eyes from me to his belay that he was worried that if I fell his weak anchor might not hold. Half a pitch up a beautiful crack with a 20 meter runout from my last piece of pro I desperately searched my harness for protection that would fit. I had brought along a dozen cams, a few tricams and a set of nuts. Now confronted with a crack perfect for a number four cam, but knowing that I had used my number four already, I found myself precariously relying on a nearly tipped out number three. The rest of that climb I spent thinking there must be a better solution to rock protection. If only there were a solid piece of pro that fit anywhere, anytime.
While browsing around murky climbing chat rooms I came across the Alpinist Clean Ascent. Finally a climbing specific hammer-drill light enough to drill on lead. Never again would I have to rely on inadequate natural protection. Now many would argue that a drill is much too heavy to clip to your harness while on the sharp end. But this is no ordinary drill and if you weigh its benefits against a trad rack you would be pleasantly surprised. The average trad rack can easily weigh 3-4 kilos while the new Clean Ascent drill weighs merely 1.5 kilos. Add 20 bolts and hangers and your setup will weigh in at just over 2.5 kilos, fully comparable with a traditional rack. This incredibly low weight is achieved through a titanium chassis, carbon fiber casing, lithium external battery pack and lots of pure mountain spirit.
The Clean Ascent Hammer Drill, coming to a cliff near you!
The drill has served me well for a full active climbing season. It has completely replaced my entire rack. On most of my climbs I now rely completely on the drill for all of my placements. At first it was a bit awkward drilling on lead. The weight of the drill can be difficult to manage one handed and beginners might be advised to carry a single wide range cam to rest on while drilling. However much of the weight lies in the external battery pack that you clip to your harness and after some practice I have been able to drill single handily with my stronger arm while hanging on my left. Also knowing that you can always rely on your last bolt it is possible to go further between protection than traditionally without compromising safety. This means that you can finish off each crux before finding a comfortable spot to drill your next bolt.
All in all the Alpinist Clean Ascent is a top notch product in a class of its own. You may at first have a hard time accepting the high price tag of $1500. But again this is completely comparable with a full climbing rack. I have no doubt that the investment will serve me and any other safety conscious climber well both on future pristine first ascents and when repeating the classics.
Pros: Pros: Super-safe all round protection in any rock anywhere. Lightest hammer drill on the market. Lighter than a full rack. Protection remains solid for years to come.
Cons: Pros: Super-safe all round protection in any rock anywhere. Lightest hammer drill on the market. Lighter than a full rack. Protection remains solid for years to come.
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uni_jim
Apr 1, 2011, 5:47 AM
Post #3 of 11
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
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Apart from the safety and weight benefits, drilling, hammering and torquing is WAY easier than fiddling with cams on lead!!!
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tripperjm
Apr 1, 2011, 5:53 AM
Post #4 of 11
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
Posts: 10650
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WOHOO!!!1 That's me.
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lagwagonpcp
Apr 1, 2011, 12:08 PM
Post #5 of 11
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 84
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seriously? I hope not.
edit to add- oh duh.
(This post was edited by lagwagonpcp on Apr 1, 2011, 12:13 PM)
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marc801
Apr 1, 2011, 2:25 PM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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lagwagonpcp wrote: seriously? I hope not. edit to add- oh duh.
I don't recall where this is located. Riverside Quarry perhaps?
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munky
Apr 1, 2011, 3:07 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358
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Haha! You guys are funny trying to lure in an innocent noob like that. Good try Alpinist.
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mar_leclerc
Apr 8, 2011, 3:32 AM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 156
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april fools?
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j_ung
Apr 8, 2011, 10:25 PM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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You never miss an opportunity to work that crack-bolting pic in. That thing is ultra super mega classic. 
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Gmburns2000
Apr 9, 2011, 12:18 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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tripperjm wrote: j_ung wrote: You never miss an opportunity to work that crack-bolting pic in. That thing is ultra super mega classic. WOHOO!!!1 That's me.
I thought you hated sprayers?
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