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Grease the Groove
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hafilax


Apr 5, 2011, 2:13 PM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 3025

Grease the Groove
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I've been reading a bit about the "grease the groove" approach to training exercises like pushups, pullups, etc. The premise is that by doing small frequent workouts, big gains can be made, for example, in the number of consecutive pullups or pushups that can be done.

There are quite a few versions of this protocol out there. The basic methodology is:
Day1: find your max reps
2: do 50% of your max every hour 3-7 times
3: 60%
4: 25%
5: 45%
6: 40%
7: 20%
then repeat once, resting on the 3rd week

I haven't come across this approach in the training for climbing books I've read and am wondering if there might be something that could be done along these lines for climbing. Most of the approaches that I've read have involved a single workout on any given day often going to failure with 2-4 rest days per week. The grease the groove approach would be to do 3 -5 or possibly more little exercises throughout the day every day, never going to failure.

I don't think that there is any question that the grease the groove approach works for pushups and pullups. My question is whether there are any climbing specific exercises that could be done in this manner without having a bouldering cave at your work. Hang board like exercises seem the most likely possibility. Something like doing 3 sets of sub maximal hangs 3 times per day. The other question is whether this approach would be better or worse when compared to the more traditional workouts in regards to gains and the potential of over-training and overuse injuries.

I would further guess that this type of training would be of most benefit to a novice climber since the original program is targeted at people who can only do a few pullups or pushups.

Mostly I'm just bored at work and wondering if there's anything I can do during the day that might help get things going for climbing season.

Bring on the *plonk*s

TL;DR Would hanging off of a door jamb a few times a day be of any benefit for climbing?


garythenuke


Apr 17, 2011, 8:23 AM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2010
Posts: 50

Re: [hafilax] Grease the Groove [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:

TL;DR Would hanging off of a door jamb a few times a day be of any benefit for climbing?
I would say that's your best bet. In terms of simplicity and availability. I do chin ups and bar dips grease the groove style at work.

You don't necessarily have to stay low rep either. My straight bar dip sets are in the 15 range. I could do 20 if I had to, but I stop at 15. I do this four or five times a day along with about the same rep range of chinups.
For your legs you can GTG single leg squats (pistols) and be relatively trained after a day at the office.


willwill


Apr 17, 2011, 8:14 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2009
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Re: [hafilax] Grease the Groove [In reply to]
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This sounds a lot like what I ended up doing when I couldn't climb due to a sprained ankle earlier this year. Every time I went up or down the spiral staircase in my apartment I did a set of pullups or some type of timed hang off the back of the staircase but never went to failure in a single go. In about a month I went from doing sets of 8 pullups to sets of 12 (I know its not much but I mostly climb slab). I wasn't following any specific routine but this seems like a similar concept to your "Grease the Groove" workout. I don't see why you couldn't apply this to hangboard/door jamb training and see some binifits.


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