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deBrice
Apr 20, 2011, 4:21 PM
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Hello,
I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks).
Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area (at least 300' long) ?
Thank you.
(This post was edited by deBrice on Apr 20, 2011, 4:25 PM)
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Diphthong
Apr 20, 2011, 4:49 PM
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Not a whole lot of decent ones, but there's a few scattered about. Check out El Cajon Mountain in San Diego. Leonids is probably a good choice. Do some research before picking lines as a lot have been chopped.
There's some 2 pitch stuff at Red Rock in Nevada, but not much of a multi pitch experience. I'm sure there's some longer ones here or there.
Skip any of those multi-pitch choss piles at Echo.
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jt512
Apr 20, 2011, 6:05 PM
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deBrice wrote: Hello, I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks). Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area ( at least 300' long) ? Thank you.
I think that your goal is flawed. At least in this region, it probably is not a good idea to do multi-pitch climbing without at least basic trad skills: the ability to place a nut or cam to protect a runout, improvise a rap anchor to bail, ascend a rope, etc.
Maybe it's time to learn trad.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 20, 2011, 6:06 PM)
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altelis
Apr 20, 2011, 6:39 PM
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deBrice wrote: Hello, I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks). Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area ( at least 300' long) ? Thank you.
Red Rocks is filled to the brim with multi-pitch sport routes. These routes are AMAZING! Almost every one is fully bolted, no run-outs, with 2-bolt anchors for each pitch. It's great. Really, in my opinion, one of the best places to learn to multi-pitch climb. The approaches are quick and easy to find, even if you spend all your time at road side crags. Descents are a BREEZE: either just rap back down the route with 1 rope or they have walk-downs that are just as easy to find as the approaches. The weather is always really nice without large swings in the temperature between shade & sun. Rarely any wind, always easy to hear your partner from the top of the pitch, and always plenty of daylight.
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Diphthong
Apr 20, 2011, 6:52 PM
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altelis wrote: Red Rocks is filled to the brim with multi-pitch sport routes. These routes are AMAZING! Almost every one is fully bolted, no run-outs, with 2-bolt anchors for each pitch. It's great. Really, in my opinion, one of the best places to learn to multi-pitch climb.
What Red Rocks are you talking about?
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altelis
Apr 20, 2011, 6:54 PM
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The one in NV, outside LV, the one everybody talks about when seeking out multipitch sport...
Why?
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Diphthong
Apr 20, 2011, 7:01 PM
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altelis wrote: The one in NV, outside LV, the one everybody talks about when seeking out multipitch sport... Why?
Oops, my bad. I thought you were talking about a different Red Rocks, then I read the part where you mentioned there not being any wind or big swings in temperature. Yup, that's the Red Rocks I know and love. The one that's practically empty in April.
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altelis
Apr 20, 2011, 7:04 PM
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Only April? I've rarely run into anybody there. Campground's usually pretty empty too, only the occasional super chill climber neighbor, sharing campfire and a six-pack, gently strumming their guitar then heading to bed early for an early start the next morning.
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csproul
Apr 20, 2011, 7:05 PM
Post #9 of 20
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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altelis wrote: deBrice wrote: Hello, I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks). Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area ( at least 300' long) ? Thank you. Red Rocks is filled to the brim with multi-pitch sport routes. These routes are AMAZING! Almost every one is fully bolted, no run-outs, with 2-bolt anchors for each pitch. It's great. Really, in my opinion, one of the best places to learn to multi-pitch climb. The approaches are quick and easy to find, even if you spend all your time at road side crags. Descents are a BREEZE: either just rap back down the route with 1 rope or they have walk-downs that are just as easy to find as the approaches. The weather is always really nice without large swings in the temperature between shade & sun. Rarely any wind, always easy to hear your partner from the top of the pitch, and always plenty of daylight.
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Diphthong
Apr 20, 2011, 7:06 PM
Post #10 of 20
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altelis wrote: Only April? I've rarely run into anybody there. Campground's usually pretty empty too, only the occasional super chill climber neighbor, sharing campfire and a six-pack, gently strumming their guitar then heading to bed early for an early start the next morning.
I love that campground. So many great memories.
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altelis
Apr 20, 2011, 7:11 PM
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Either one or both of us got a bite.
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csproul
Apr 20, 2011, 7:11 PM
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Diphthong wrote: altelis wrote: Only April? I've rarely run into anybody there. Campground's usually pretty empty too, only the occasional super chill climber neighbor, sharing campfire and a six-pack, gently strumming their guitar then heading to bed early for an early start the next morning. I love that campgroundsmelly, dusty, wind blown sand-pit. So many great memories.
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altelis
Apr 20, 2011, 7:13 PM
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apparently i'll need to use MORE and BETTER and probably even TOTALLY EXTREMELY MASSIVE amounts of hyperbole and sarcasm. 
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potreroed
Apr 20, 2011, 9:12 PM
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Red Rocks is a great place to climb but that campground sucks. Oh, for the good ol' days when Decatur Blvd was the edge of town and you could camp anywhere you wanted.
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Diphthong
Apr 20, 2011, 9:15 PM
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potreroed wrote: Red Rocks is a great place to climb but that campground sucks. Oh, for the good ol' days when Decatur Blvd was the edge of town and you could camp anywhere you wanted.
Um excuse me Potrero Ed, but we're talking about great places for multipitch sport climbing... like Red Rocks. I doubt you have much input for the thread with all the time you spend in that little boulder park down in Mexico you climb at.
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deBrice
Apr 20, 2011, 10:02 PM
Post #17 of 20
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Registered: Apr 20, 2011
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Thank you all for your help.
So I guess Red Rocks it is (And nevada is not too far from Los Angeles). I will have to find a nice climb 5.8 to 5.9 to start with. After training this summer, I'll give a shot later this year ;)
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jt512
Apr 20, 2011, 10:06 PM
Post #18 of 20
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
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deBrice wrote: Thank you all for your help. So I guess Red Rocks it is (And nevada is not too far from Los Angeles). I will have to find a nice climb 5.8 to 5.9 to start with. After training this summer, I'll give a shot later this year ;)
The people who were recommending RR to you were being sarcastic.
Jay
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altelis
Apr 21, 2011, 2:10 AM
Post #19 of 20
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jt512 wrote: deBrice wrote: Thank you all for your help. So I guess Red Rocks it is (And nevada is not too far from Los Angeles). I will have to find a nice climb 5.8 to 5.9 to start with. After training this summer, I'll give a shot later this year ;) The people who were recommending RR to you were being sarcastic. Jay
I can't speak for everyone, but I was most certainly being sarcastic. Not sure how to be any more sarcastic, honestly.
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chris
Apr 21, 2011, 5:18 AM
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This may have been the most entertaining thread I've read on rc.com.
And I agree with Jay. Wow.
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