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Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV
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deBrice


Apr 20, 2011, 9:21 AM
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Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV
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Hello,

I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks).

Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area (at least 300' long) ?

Thank you.


(This post was edited by deBrice on Apr 20, 2011, 9:25 AM)


Diphthong


Apr 20, 2011, 9:49 AM
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Re: [deBrice] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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Not a whole lot of decent ones, but there's a few scattered about. Check out El Cajon Mountain in San Diego. Leonids is probably a good choice. Do some research before picking lines as a lot have been chopped.

There's some 2 pitch stuff at Red Rock in Nevada, but not much of a multi pitch experience. I'm sure there's some longer ones here or there.

Skip any of those multi-pitch choss piles at Echo.


jt512


Apr 20, 2011, 11:05 AM
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Re: [deBrice] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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deBrice wrote:
Hello,

I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks).

Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area (at least 300' long) ?

Thank you.

I think that your goal is flawed. At least in this region, it probably is not a good idea to do multi-pitch climbing without at least basic trad skills: the ability to place a nut or cam to protect a runout, improvise a rap anchor to bail, ascend a rope, etc.

Maybe it's time to learn trad.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 20, 2011, 11:06 AM)


altelis


Apr 20, 2011, 11:39 AM
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Re: [deBrice] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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deBrice wrote:
Hello,

I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks).

Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area (at least 300' long) ?

Thank you.

Red Rocks is filled to the brim with multi-pitch sport routes. These routes are AMAZING! Almost every one is fully bolted, no run-outs, with 2-bolt anchors for each pitch. It's great. Really, in my opinion, one of the best places to learn to multi-pitch climb. The approaches are quick and easy to find, even if you spend all your time at road side crags. Descents are a BREEZE: either just rap back down the route with 1 rope or they have walk-downs that are just as easy to find as the approaches. The weather is always really nice without large swings in the temperature between shade & sun. Rarely any wind, always easy to hear your partner from the top of the pitch, and always plenty of daylight.


Diphthong


Apr 20, 2011, 11:52 AM
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Re: [altelis] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
Red Rocks is filled to the brim with multi-pitch sport routes. These routes are AMAZING! Almost every one is fully bolted, no run-outs, with 2-bolt anchors for each pitch. It's great. Really, in my opinion, one of the best places to learn to multi-pitch climb.

What Red Rocks are you talking about?


altelis


Apr 20, 2011, 11:54 AM
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Re: [Diphthong] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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The one in NV, outside LV, the one everybody talks about when seeking out multipitch sport...

Why?


Diphthong


Apr 20, 2011, 12:01 PM
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Re: [altelis] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
The one in NV, outside LV, the one everybody talks about when seeking out multipitch sport...

Why?

Oops, my bad. I thought you were talking about a different Red Rocks, then I read the part where you mentioned there not being any wind or big swings in temperature. Yup, that's the Red Rocks I know and love. The one that's practically empty in April.


altelis


Apr 20, 2011, 12:04 PM
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Re: [Diphthong] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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Only April? I've rarely run into anybody there. Campground's usually pretty empty too, only the occasional super chill climber neighbor, sharing campfire and a six-pack, gently strumming their guitar then heading to bed early for an early start the next morning.


csproul


Apr 20, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Re: [altelis] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
deBrice wrote:
Hello,

I've been climbing indoor and outdoor for a little while (2 years). I'm comfortable up to 10A(100% flash), and done some 10B and 10C indoor. Me and my friend are looking for mulit-pitchs sport route around south california and nevada (red rocks).

Do you know any good sport route, would say 5.8 to 5.9 (as it would be our first long multipitch climb) in the area (at least 300' long) ?

Thank you.

Red Rocks is filled to the brim with multi-pitch sport routes. These routes are AMAZING! Almost every one is fully bolted, no run-outs, with 2-bolt anchors for each pitch. It's great. Really, in my opinion, one of the best places to learn to multi-pitch climb. The approaches are quick and easy to find, even if you spend all your time at road side crags. Descents are a BREEZE: either just rap back down the route with 1 rope or they have walk-downs that are just as easy to find as the approaches. The weather is always really nice without large swings in the temperature between shade & sun. Rarely any wind, always easy to hear your partner from the top of the pitch, and always plenty of daylight.
Can you name a route at RR that is truly a sport climb in the 5.8-5.9 range as asked for by the OP? The few multipitch "sport" climbs at RR that I have been on, such as Unimpeachable Groping, Prince of Darkness, or Inti Wantana are not routes I would send a person to learn multipitch skills. Granted, I don't live close to there anymore, so I'm not super familiar with the current routes, but I can't think of one that fits the bill for the OP. It is a great place to learn multipitch, so I'm not saying there aren't routes to fit the OP's needs, I just can't think of a route off the top of my head.


Diphthong


Apr 20, 2011, 12:06 PM
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altelis wrote:
Only April? I've rarely run into anybody there. Campground's usually pretty empty too, only the occasional super chill climber neighbor, sharing campfire and a six-pack, gently strumming their guitar then heading to bed early for an early start the next morning.

I love that campground. So many great memories.


altelis


Apr 20, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Re: [csproul] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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Either one or both of us got a bite.


csproul


Apr 20, 2011, 12:11 PM
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Diphthong wrote:
altelis wrote:
Only April? I've rarely run into anybody there. Campground's usually pretty empty too, only the occasional super chill climber neighbor, sharing campfire and a six-pack, gently strumming their guitar then heading to bed early for an early start the next morning.

I love that campgroundsmelly, dusty, wind blown sand-pit. So many great memories.
fixed that for you.


csproul


Apr 20, 2011, 12:12 PM
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Re: [altelis] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
Either one or both of us got a bite.
Yup, hook, line, and sinkerFrown


altelis


Apr 20, 2011, 12:13 PM
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Re: [csproul] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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apparently i'll need to use MORE and BETTER and probably even TOTALLY EXTREMELY MASSIVE amounts of hyperbole and sarcasm. Tongue


potreroed


Apr 20, 2011, 2:12 PM
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Re: [altelis] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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Red Rocks is a great place to climb but that campground sucks. Oh, for the good ol' days when Decatur Blvd was the edge of town and you could camp anywhere you wanted.


Diphthong


Apr 20, 2011, 2:15 PM
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potreroed wrote:
Red Rocks is a great place to climb but that campground sucks. Oh, for the good ol' days when Decatur Blvd was the edge of town and you could camp anywhere you wanted.

Um excuse me Potrero Ed, but we're talking about great places for multipitch sport climbing... like Red Rocks. I doubt you have much input for the thread with all the time you spend in that little boulder park down in Mexico you climb at.


deBrice


Apr 20, 2011, 3:02 PM
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Thank you all for your help.

So I guess Red Rocks it is (And nevada is not too far from Los Angeles). I will have to find a nice climb 5.8 to 5.9 to start with. After training this summer, I'll give a shot later this year ;)


jt512


Apr 20, 2011, 3:06 PM
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deBrice wrote:
Thank you all for your help.

So I guess Red Rocks it is (And nevada is not too far from Los Angeles). I will have to find a nice climb 5.8 to 5.9 to start with. After training this summer, I'll give a shot later this year ;)

The people who were recommending RR to you were being sarcastic.

Jay


altelis


Apr 20, 2011, 7:10 PM
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Re: [jt512] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
deBrice wrote:
Thank you all for your help.

So I guess Red Rocks it is (And nevada is not too far from Los Angeles). I will have to find a nice climb 5.8 to 5.9 to start with. After training this summer, I'll give a shot later this year ;)

The people who were recommending RR to you were being sarcastic.

Jay

I can't speak for everyone, but I was most certainly being sarcastic. Not sure how to be any more sarcastic, honestly.


chris


Apr 20, 2011, 10:18 PM
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Re: [altelis] Looking for a multi-pitch Sport route CA or NV [In reply to]
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This may have been the most entertaining thread I've read on rc.com.

And I agree with Jay. Wow.


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