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erisspirit
Apr 21, 2011, 11:55 PM
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spikeddem wrote: sungam wrote: Just out of curiosity, did you catch Cory's last name, and did he just get back from Venezuela? Um, I didn't catch his last name, but he definitely didn't just get back from Venezuela. He does rope access work, and just finished working at the Hoover Dam for two or so months. Climbing and camping with Jay Young was a great time! I can't write up our last two days right now, since the library will close too quickly, but I'm fairly certain I'm heading to Bishop tomorrow. Fun!
haha! I'm heading through bishop tomorrow too... going to spend an afternoon in the happies on the way up to Mammoth
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j_ung
Apr 21, 2011, 11:59 PM
Post #52 of 80
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Great to hang with you, Spikey! I'm finally home, which is great, but I wish I had more days to spend in RR. Get to the New, hombre!
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Vegasclimber10
Apr 22, 2011, 6:31 AM
Post #53 of 80
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Great TR so far!
Really sorry I couldn't come out to Lovell and say hi, but a lot of stuff came up and I was kinda SOL.
Next time you're in town, hopefully we can climb something.
Keep the photos coming!
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spikeddem
Apr 22, 2011, 9:02 PM
Post #54 of 80
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Tuesday, April 19th, 2011
Jay's heart has been set on climbing Triassic Sands for years. Now, after returning to Red Rock after years of waiting, he had his chance.
One of the most classic lines either of us have ever done. Absolutely fantastic.
Although on Monday I had been nervous about a multipitch climb with two pitches of 5.10, when I arrived at the base of the route I just felt really excited to get to the climbing. Jay mentioned he had butterflies, partially from having built up the climb for so many years, and partially from leading near his off-the-couch limit after having taken time off lately. The plan was for Jay to take the first and second pitches (5.7, 5.10b), and for me to take the last two pitches (5.7, 5.10a).
We set off.
The first pitch was pretty much a 30' maintenance pitch, not really a pitch you'd hop on if it didn't have classic pitches immediately after it. Jay dispatched the first pitch, put me on belay, and shortly enough we found ourselves enjoying the view from the top of the first pitch. Wasting little time, Jay and I took a moment to snap a photograph that Jay could use to recall the feeling of standing beneath the crux pitch that he had built up over so many years.
Jay preparing to set off on the crux pitch, with not much more than air beneath him after traversing from the anchor.
I most certainly cannot do justice to Jay's encounter with this pitch. I suppose I'll just keep it simple, and let my reader imagine the rest (or perhaps insert a write-up by Jay if he wants to?). Basically, Jay fought tooth and nail during his 120' pitch: back-cleaning, bumping up gear over and over, sustaining a pump that lasted until dinner time. Jay later told me that a strong dialogue had been going on for a lot of the pitch: "Just stop here and yell take!" "No! I've waited for so many years to get on this route, I need to push myself." Jay kept himself safe, and held on for his ecstatic hooting-n-hollering finish as he clipped the chains.
I followed, finding myself glad that I didn't have to lead pitch. Interestingly, we found that our opinions of the cruxes to be different. I suppose it might have helped (a lot, actually) that I had just finished a week and a half of crack climbing at Indian Creek. Props to Jay for a great climb though.
After the excitement of the second pitch, it was now time for Jay to kick back and relax as his leading duties were done for the day. I headed up on on the 160' 5.7 pitch ahead of me. It never really gave any kind of a problem, except for a bit of a route reading challenge, but after rappelling, we saw that either of several paths would have worked just fine.
Jay, enjoying being a second after his intense pitch.
Hanging out at the top of the third pitch we snapped a few photos, enjoyed the view, and commented on the Indian Creek-ness of the fourth pitch. Many parties foolishly skip this fourth pitch, which I decided was likely my new favorite pitch of I've ever done (sport or trad).
Two crushers doing what they do best.
I headed up to finish up the last pitch. I felt confident the whole time: at the belay, pulling over the first roof, pulling through the perfect hands bulges (thank you, Wavy Gravy!), and through the last 70' of the pitch too. Just really enjoyed the climbing, and never got scared or sketched. An absolute 160' gem Every single foot of it was great. Crack disappears? Oh, face holds! Oh, where'd they go? Ah, a crack appears! Perfecto!
Although you can only see like 20% of the fun, this pitch is truly one of the best I've ever done.
After a short celebration at the top of the fourth pitch, Jay and I rapped down. We took a short cut on the rappelling, and ended up rapping down through a sport climb. After reaching the ground, I realized that I had been fairly inspired by the look of the long (120') sport route. We grabbed a bit of food, and I hopped on the route. Although there were some slopers now and then, I probably used around 10,000 crimps on the route. It was an enjoyable route. Looking it up later, I found out that it's called Sand Felipe (5.10a). Jay and I headed back to the truck, and chatted about what to do the next day, his last day in Red Rock.
Oh, and I almost forgot. Due to losing my nut tool somewhere in my car (I think?), here's the impromptu nut tool that I came up with for the climbs Jay and I did.
Ghetto nut tool.
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spikeddem
Apr 22, 2011, 9:21 PM
Post #55 of 80
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Wednesday, April 20th, 2011
For Jay's last day, we decided on TunnelVision. This 5.7 multipitch classic seeemed like a good call to enjoy our last day without much stress. Well, apparently, we got lost on our hike. Unfortunately, we arrived near the bottom of a climb that almost exactly matched the description in the book. After inspecting the choss pile that lacked any chalk whatsoever, Jay decided to head up a nearby sport route (also mentioned as being near the route). The two supposedly meet up at the base of the second pitch. After my seconding, Jay thought it'd be a good call to bail from the chossy looking route. With a party of three moving at a snails pace (or slower) ahead of us, and being completely uninspired by the route, we bailed.
I'm still kind of confused as to exactly what was what and where we were, but whatever. I'm over it. Jay and I decided to go bouldering in Calico Basin. This actually ended up with Jay taking a couple photos, and using his crash pad to stretch and close his eyes while enjoying his last bit of relaxation before heading back home from Vegas the next morning.
Despite getting close on a project that I'd been working, I ended up going home empty handed. After climbing eight of the last nine days, it was time for a rest day or two. I am kind of tempted to try to stop by Calico Basin on the way home from my trip to see what if I can finish it off.
Feels really hard for me. Definitely at my limit.
Jay and I said our goodbyes and see-you-later's, and the next morning he left for home at the New River Gorge, and I left for my next destination: Bishop, CA.
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spikeddem
Apr 22, 2011, 9:28 PM
Post #56 of 80
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j_ung wrote: Great to hang with you, Spikey! I'm finally home, which is great, but I wish I had more days to spend in RR. Get to the New, hombre!
Ditto! I'll get there soon enough :)
Vegasclimber10 wrote: Great TR so far! Really sorry I couldn't come out to Lovell and say hi, but a lot of stuff came up and I was kinda SOL. Next time you're in town, hopefully we can climb something. Keep the photos coming!
Thanks! Yeah, it was too bad you couldn't make it. You missed out on randomly camping with . . . JIM DONINI! He's a really funny guy. He actually invited Jay and I to go climb with him in The Black Canyon. That will likely be happening on my drive home, so I can be in the best shape to have his 67 year old-self carry my butt up Scenic Cruise there! Haha, he's such a talented guy.
There's a chance I'll swing back through RR on my way home after this trip . . . I'll let you know if I do.
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j_ung
Apr 23, 2011, 11:30 AM
Post #57 of 80
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spikeddem wrote: I most certainly cannot do justice to Jay's encounter with this pitch. I suppose I'll just keep it simple, and let my reader imagine the rest (or perhaps insert a write-up by Jay if he wants to?). Basically, Jay fought tooth and nail during his 120' pitch: back-cleaning, bumping up gear over and over, sustaining a pump that lasted until dinner time. Jay later told me that a strong dialogue had been going on for a lot of the pitch: "Just stop here and yell take!" "No! I've waited for so many years to get on this route, I need to push myself." Jay kept himself safe, and held on for his ecstatic hooting-n-hollering finish as he clipped the chains.
That's pretty perfect, actually. I'll add a detail, namely that I pulled a classic east-coaster on the west coast mistake and over protected early. After the crux, I started plugging cams every 7 feet or so, until I realized, hey, I've got a long way to go and maybe three pieces left that'll fit this crack. 80 cam-shuffling feet later (felt like a mile), I finally clipped the anchor.
It'll seem weird to anybody who's climbed TS before, but I had substantially more trouble managing my couch pump and protecting the upper 2/3 of the pitch than I did on the crux down below.
If I ever get back there, I think Wholesome Fullback and Our Father are tops on the tick list.
I hope Bishop's treating you well, Spikey!
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j_ung
Apr 27, 2011, 11:49 AM
Post #58 of 80
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Apologies to those waiting for more posts and photos. It appears that climbing with me is so over-the-top fun that when I left for home, the rest of spikeddem's trip paled in comparison. Unfortunately, there is nothing else worth posting.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Apr 27, 2011, 11:49 AM)
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kachoong
Apr 27, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Great TR, Spike! Sounds like you're having a blast and also had the pleasure of ticking Mr Ung on your partner list.
Road-tripping between climbing areas is one of the great experiences any climber should do. I just got back from Aus myself, having climbed at Arapiles, and wish I was still back there climbing. So crank some extra stuff for us lot stuck back at work.
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spikeddem
May 1, 2011, 10:32 PM
Post #61 of 80
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lena_chita wrote: j_ung wrote: Apologies to those waiting for more posts and photos. It appears that climbing with me is so over-the-top fun that when I left for home, the rest of spikeddem's trip paled in comparison. Unfortunately, there is nothing else worth posting. But of course!
Definitely worthy of two, one-star votes...?
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spikeddem
May 1, 2011, 11:22 PM
Post #62 of 80
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Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick!
Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good!
Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems.
King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day.
Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course).
Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include:
Birthday Direct V3
King Tut V3
Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line)
The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded!
Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time.
And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done.
Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN.
I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push.
Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts.
. . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip?
(This post was edited by spikeddem on May 1, 2011, 11:28 PM)
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enigma
May 2, 2011, 6:20 AM
Post #63 of 80
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spikeddem wrote: Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick! Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good! Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems. King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day. Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course). Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include: Birthday Direct V3 King Tut V3 Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line) The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded! Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time. And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done. Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN. I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push. Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts. . . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip?
This is a awesome trip report, beautiful photos, great beta, well organized, well written. Do you work for a climbing magazine?
Seems particularly professional.
I'm impressed.
(This post was edited by enigma on May 2, 2011, 6:27 AM)
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lena_chita
Moderator
May 2, 2011, 12:29 PM
Post #64 of 80
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I loved Bishop, too! And yes, very good analogy of "different language climbing". Birthday Direct was the first problem I got on at the Buttermilks, and it was a bit of "oh, shit!" moment. And Ironman Traverse-- yes, that has got to be the most-climbed one. But it is so much fun!
Sorry to hear that you cut the trip short, and I hope the reasons weren't bad. I would have enjoyed reading more.
Four more months to go... hmmm, move to the red for 4 months?
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donald949
May 2, 2011, 4:10 PM
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Very nice. I'll have to check out the camping in the Buttermilks/happies/sads some time. Sounds like my kind of set up. Anyrate, sorry I missed you. But hey, you were climbing at Red Rocks while I was up in the area. Deffinately a step up from the Alabama Hills.
+1 on hoping that the drive home was not due to something bad and it was just a time to move on thing.
D
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spikeddem
May 11, 2011, 3:16 AM
Post #66 of 80
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enigma wrote: spikeddem wrote: Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick! Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good! Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems. King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day. Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course). Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include: Birthday Direct V3 King Tut V3 Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line) The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded! Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time. And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done. Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN. I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push. Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts. . . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip? This is a awesome trip report, beautiful photos, great beta, well organized, well written. Do you work for a climbing magazine? Seems particularly professional. I'm impressed.
Thanks for the compliments, Enigma! I'm glad you enjoyed my trip report.
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esander4
May 11, 2011, 7:14 AM
Post #67 of 80
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spikeddem wrote: Well, like I said, I went to Bishop. Bishop is absolutely amazing. If you're not digging the weather in one place, you can move from the Buttermilks to the Happies/Sads or vice versa. Free camping at the buttermilks, $2 camping (with TOILETSSS) at the happies'sads? Sick! Camping at the buttermilks was awesome. No cost, only like 3-4 other cars camping (none of which could be seen from my spot), a fifteen minute hike to the boulders, just way too good! Climbing at the Buttermilks was like learning to climb all over again. In Progression, McNamara compares the ultra-thin, technical granite climbing that Tommy Caldwell is doing to another "language" of climbing. That is how I felt climbing in the Buttermilks. Everything I've done previously, was in French, and the buttermilks problems were like climbing in Latin. None of my skills I'd picked up were helping me on the technical, friction-y problems. King Tut, V3. Sorry for such harsh overexposure. This was a solo bouldering day. Also, although I'm sure it does get busy at the Buttermilks, the only problem that really ever was consistently being climbed was . . . Ironman Traverse (of course). Some of my favorite problems at the Buttermilks include: Birthday Direct V3 King Tut V3 Funky Tut V3 (probably liked this more than the direct line) The climbing is pretty hard on your skin, but you can just go to the Happies/Sads if your skin is too shredded! Ok, so without any legitimate transition into this, I'm just going to say that I decided to cut my trip short and come home early. I loved the bouldering in the buttermilks (although it took a while to get used to it . . . not that I became anywhere near fluent at it), and I only got to climb in the Happies for a day, but I had to go home. It was just time. And like that, the sun was setting on my trip. It was still a great trip: I had like 20 non-driving days, and I climbed for about 16 of them. Lots of climbing was done. Suddenly the boulders turned to hay bails, and I was back in MN. I'm fairly certain that I set a new record for a solo Bishop to Minnesota drive. 26 hours in a single push? Perhaps. I didn't even nod off a teency tiny bit; I think the two energy drinks shocked the heck out of my body after eating so cleanly for a month. I didn't speed, so I'm sure I've been beaten, but surely I've joined an exclusive club to have driven that far/long in a single push. Now I have to figure out what I'm going to do during the four months before grad school starts. . . . Anyone interested in a roadtrip?
Any interest in touring around Tennessee/Alabama/N. Carolina for a couple weeks? 
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j_ung
May 12, 2011, 4:19 PM
Post #68 of 80
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And of course, if you're in the south anyway... coughnewrivercough. Actualloy, I might be psyched to head to NC for a couple days of cragging down there, as well. Especially if said cragging is in Linville Gorge.
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esander4
May 13, 2011, 1:48 AM
Post #69 of 80
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j_ung wrote: And of course, if you're in the south anyway... coughnewrivercough. Actualloy, I might be psyched to head to NC for a couple days of cragging down there, as well. Especially if said cragging is in Linville Gorge.
Dang how did I forget about NRG and RRG?
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donald949
May 13, 2011, 3:49 PM
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Tuolumne Meadows
Course with this years snow fall, I'm sure it will be about July 4th before the road is open. 
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Stoves
Aug 2, 2011, 12:25 AM
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Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome.
Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.
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j_ung
Aug 2, 2011, 11:04 AM
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Stoves wrote: Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome. Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with.
Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them."
What would you do?
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sungam
Aug 2, 2011, 12:00 PM
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j_ung wrote: Stoves wrote: Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome. Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with. Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them." What would you do?  Oh, man...*snort* Jung... *gasp*... my stomach... *gaffaw* can't...stop...laughing...
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Kartessa
Aug 2, 2011, 1:03 PM
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j_ung wrote: Stoves wrote: Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome. Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with. Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them." What would you do?
probably eat the sammich.
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spikeddem
Aug 2, 2011, 2:50 PM
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Kartessa wrote: j_ung wrote: Stoves wrote: Man i just hope I will get the chance to go on a trip like this in the next couple of years totally awesome. Thanks for sharing you seem a fun person to climb with. Honestly, he was great, right up until we got to the top of Triassic Sands. Then he immediately takes off his helmet, puts on a tin-foil cap, takes out an old-school spyglass and starts talking about how somebody needs to shut the light down on the Luxor, because it's attracting the wrong kind of Succubi. Then he takes out a PBJ sandwich, strips naked and starts to rub it all up into his armpits and crotch. He hands it to me and with a look on his face more serious than I can describe, says, "You're one of us... or one of them." What would you do? probably eat the sammich.
Glad to see that some people are trustworthy. Jay made it very awkward, not eating that sandwich.
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