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foursixoffsuit
Apr 20, 2011, 3:06 PM
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So I'm headed off to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru in a little less than three months. My climbing partner and I are planning on (after acclimating with walkups) climbing routes that are mostly steep snow or easy alpine ice. We are in school right now until early June, after which we are planning on specific training/practice in the High Sierra or Shasta.
How does this plan look for the next 7 weeks then? This is addition to regular rock climbing in the gym and outside.
Sunday: Hike with pack (preferable) or Stairmaster with pack
Monday: rest
Tuesday: 1 hr stair running
Wednesday: 75 minutes easyish cardio, running/biking/rowing maybe, to train while aiding recovery
Thursday: 1 hr stair running
Friday: rest
Saturday: Hike with pack (preferable) or stairmaster with pack
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FullertonImages
Apr 21, 2011, 4:37 PM
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Do you plan on running stairs in Peru? If not, i would say you can ditch that, or at lest drop it to one day. There nothing on there do develop your climbing strength. Even though snow and easy ice is pretty leg intensive, I think you need to do something for you upper body, and even more importantly some total body that ties it all in together. If it were me, i would drop the stair running, and spend one day doing yoga or pilots, and ne day doing some kind of compound, total body training like cross fit or kettle bell routine or whatever. Smething to get you whole body stable and strong. Also, double down on the core stability.
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csproul
Apr 21, 2011, 5:00 PM
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Three months isn't a lot of time...but if I were you, I'd be concentrating on endurance, endurance, and more endurance. Make those hikes long and fast, and make your climbing days long and continuous. The Sierras can be good for that. My best days at altitude have come after periods of extended cardio-endurance training.
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Karly
Apr 21, 2011, 5:01 PM
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I am planning to take a trip later this summer and found this training plan. The plan is designed for a much bigger climb than I am doing, but I thought it was pretty good. I am tailoring it to fit my needs so I'm sure you can do the same. I hope it helps! There is a check list and a written breakdown.
http://www.alpineascents.com/denali-train.asp
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jacques
Apr 22, 2011, 2:51 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2008
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FullertonImages wrote: Do you plan on running stairs in Peru? If not, i would say you can ditch that, or at lest drop it to one day.
I agree with fullert. I think that if you train for around 15 weeks, you are not going to increase your power, but just use the strenght that you already have. To do so, you must use different type of training (2 week warm up, 4 weeks fiber synchronisation (superset, 1 to 3 rep, etc), 4 week aerobic alactique (8 to 10 rep) and 4 week anaerobic lactique (pyramidale))
If you train on a one year basis, your training will be different and more sustain. You will increase your power.
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rtwilli4
Apr 24, 2011, 7:49 PM
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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jacques wrote: FullertonImages wrote: Do you plan on running stairs in Peru? If not, i would say you can ditch that, or at lest drop it to one day. I agree with fullert. I think that if you train for around 15 weeks, you are not going to increase your power, but just use the strenght that you already have. To do so, you must use different type of training (2 week warm up, 4 weeks fiber synchronisation (superset, 1 to 3 rep, etc), 4 week aerobic alactique (8 to 10 rep) and 4 week anaerobic lactique (pyramidale)) If you train on a one year basis, your training will be different and more sustain. You will increase your power.
Doesn't in take much longer to better your endurance than power? Correct me if I'm wrong but I've always viewed aerobic endurance training as more of a long term pursuit and power training as something that can produce results in short periods of time. I guess I'm looking at this from a rock climbing perspective but the principals should be the same right?
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johnwesely
Apr 24, 2011, 8:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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rtwilli4 wrote: jacques wrote: FullertonImages wrote: Do you plan on running stairs in Peru? If not, i would say you can ditch that, or at lest drop it to one day. I agree with fullert. I think that if you train for around 15 weeks, you are not going to increase your power, but just use the strenght that you already have. To do so, you must use different type of training (2 week warm up, 4 weeks fiber synchronisation (superset, 1 to 3 rep, etc), 4 week aerobic alactique (8 to 10 rep) and 4 week anaerobic lactique (pyramidale)) If you train on a one year basis, your training will be different and more sustain. You will increase your power. Doesn't in take much longer to better your endurance than power? Correct me if I'm wrong but I've always viewed aerobic endurance training as more of a long term pursuit and power training as something that can produce results in short periods of time. I guess I'm looking at this from a rock climbing perspective but the principals should be the same right?
In my experience, anaerobic endurance builds pretty darn quickly.
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hamburg113
Sep 17, 2011, 2:38 AM
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Registered: Sep 17, 2011
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Hi,
Thanks very much for this comment. It help me to think about my ideals.
Tks again and pls keep posting.
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