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trott.rm
Apr 25, 2011, 2:50 PM
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I've recently ceased climbing for a few weeks due too a dull ache to sharp pain in my forearm immediately after i release a grip, I do not have pain any other time outside of training, I have started doing reverse wrist curls and pronator to strengthen the antagonist muscles.
My question is does this sound like tendinitis? or are they just not used to the about of strain that is placed on them. I don't have pain in my elbows.
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trott.rm
Apr 27, 2011, 6:58 AM
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Upon further poking at prodding, i've discovered that the pain originates when I pull on only my ring finger. If I team up my fingers i experience no pain, just when its my ring finger alone. I don't have any pain if i push anywhere on the finger only when i pull, as in crimping, on it. further more i don't experience pain if the pinkie finger is inline with the ring finger, only if it is down as if holding a base ball.
Does this signify a tendon injury? if so what is the best therapy and recommended rest time for such an injury?
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jamie00
Apr 27, 2011, 10:30 PM
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Hi,
I've had the same problem for around a year now - I haven't been able to find a concrete diagnosis, despite much searching.
The physio (with climbing experience) said it was probably index finger tendon strain (I have it in both forearms, worse in the right). The tendon running from the elbow down to the hand, along the top of the forearm, is sensitive to deep massage indicating strain/overuse perhaps.
I now think it originates from computer mouse/touchpad and writing RSI, which manifests (or is exacerbated) through climbing. The only time I've felt symptom free while'st climbing was during a month and a half long break from any computer or writing work. That's the best piece of information I've found out! Unfortunately I can't stop this work and I can't seem to find a way to do it without flaring up the problem.
Do you think this could be the case with you as well, the injury originating from some other activity in your life that may have caused RSI?
Sorry I can't be more help, it's incredibly frustrating I know! I took 5 months off climbing last summer hoping it would clear the problem up, no effect....
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trott.rm
Apr 29, 2011, 8:12 PM
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I feel that the injury comes from either climbing or work, as I am a construction supervisor and am commonly picking up sheets of plywood and other awkward objects.
I am having difficulty identify the real source of my discomfort, it is in my left hand/arm. I do not notice any 'bow stringing' of in my A2 not do have any trouble flexing any of my fingers.
The main symptom is the pain when i release a crimp hold. the only way for me to recreate the pain outside of climbing is to flex my other three fingers as in a fist while leaving my ring finger straight and then with my other hand apply pressure at the tip of my finger to resist the ring finger from flexing. My forearm then gets tight and i experience displeasure.
I want to treat this injury but i don't have any noticeable swelling to know where to ice. Nor can i find any good articles describing this type of injury. So for now i am taking a rest in hopes that it will fix it self and return to the crags once my discomfort is resolved.
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altelis
Apr 29, 2011, 8:20 PM
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Where in your forearm is the pain?
You say you only feel the pain when you release a crimp (ie extend the finger), but then go on to describe the only way you can recreate the pain, and as best as I can understand from your description, you are essentially just flexing that finger. Any way to clarify how you recreate the pain, and exactly where the pain is and how it feels?
Any numbness/tingling in any of the fingers?
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trott.rm
Apr 29, 2011, 8:28 PM
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pain is located in the palm side of my forearm.
your right that i'm flexing the finger but, flexing alone doesn't cause pain/discomfort. there needs to be resistance. and it is a pulling feeling in the forearm, and it gets really tight almost like it is getting pumped
there is no numbness
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altelis
Apr 29, 2011, 8:30 PM
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ok. that helps a little. you say you get a pulling feeling in the palm side of the forearm with resisted flexion. this only happens with the ring finger?
are you able to narrow down where on the palm side of the forearm the pain is? from elbow to wrist? middle? in a band the whole way from elbow to wrist? etc...
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trott.rm
Apr 29, 2011, 8:34 PM
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only my ring finger and the pain is roughly 4" from elbow
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altelis
Apr 29, 2011, 8:36 PM
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again, is it a specific spot? does it run in a band toward your wrist? diffuse? run across (perpendicular) to your forearm? 4" from elbow on the lateral or medial side?
kind of feel like i'm pulling teeth here. i can only ask so many times for you to be as specific as possible in terms of describing the pain...
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trott.rm
Apr 29, 2011, 8:43 PM
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I'm pointing at where it hurts can't you see?
ok, it's a narrow strip that is parallel with the forearm, more intense about 4" from the elbow on the medial side (inside), a little right of center, on left arm
I assume this is the flexor tendon and may be where it connects in the forearm but i don't know the anatomy that well
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altelis
Apr 29, 2011, 8:57 PM
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Well, yes, it does sound like you have a flexor tendonitis. Other's more versed may be able to tell you some ideas for treatment/rehab.
Generally, tendonitis is initially treated with a lot of rest.
And, while I am struggling for a way that doesn't come across as either too sarcastic or too condescending, my general feeling is if you are experiencing pain, have enough intuition/knowledge to say that you assume its where the flexor tendon connects to the forearm and then say "I don't know the anatomy that well"- this strikes me as lazy/ignorance. These days investing in an anatomy book or a trip to a library is no longer needed to quickly ID a simple piece of anatomy. Sure this doesn't give you a diagnosis or treatment, but if you can ID the anatomy and describe the "displeasure" you can pretty easily come up with some decent possible diagnoses and initial management, either via Dr. Google, or by coming back to these boards with a much clearer picture of what's going on.
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trott.rm
Apr 29, 2011, 9:04 PM
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thanks for your help
and there was some laziness
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altelis
Apr 29, 2011, 9:08 PM
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trott.rm wrote: thanks for your help and there was some laziness 
hopefully will come 'round these parts who has some better treatment ideas...but i would, at the very least, rest it as much as you can- that would include avoiding things like lifting plywood for the immediate future. there may be a USEFUL brace (ie something with some evidence behind it,not every brace sold at CVS is gonna help...)
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onceahardman
Apr 29, 2011, 10:05 PM
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trott.rm wrote: The main symptom is the pain when i release a crimp hold. the only way for me to recreate the pain outside of climbing is to flex my other three fingers as in a fist while leaving my ring finger straight and then with my other hand apply pressure at the tip of my finger to resist the ring finger from flexing. My forearm then gets tight and i experience displeasure.
trott, this is a great description, well done.
Have a very close look at this drawing:
http://en.wikipedia.org/...itorum-profundis.png
Notice that the writing that says "flexor digitorum profundus" is written on a tendon. If you follow that tendon toward the hand, you will notice it goes to the 4th digit (commonly known as the ring finger). Notice also that the tendon of FDP that goes to the 4th digit is the longest tendon, or, conversely, the shortest muscle belly. This makes the 4th digit slip of FDP the weakest one, therefore the most prone to injury, if equal force is applied to all.
Your injury is likely a muscle strain (=tear) of FDP. The length of time it has been hanging around indicates poor healing.
I would recommend specifically strengthening it. You may need to provide enough force to it to make it painful, HOWEVER, it should NEVER be worse immediately after working on it. Manual force is probably as good as anything.
Do not crimp. Learn to use open grip. Your climbing career will thank you.
PS: if anybody knows how to upload the Gray's anatomy drawing without needing to click on it, please feel free.
(This post was edited by onceahardman on Apr 29, 2011, 10:13 PM)
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altelis
Apr 30, 2011, 2:07 AM
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onceahardman wrote: trott.rm wrote: The main symptom is the pain when i release a crimp hold. the only way for me to recreate the pain outside of climbing is to flex my other three fingers as in a fist while leaving my ring finger straight and then with my other hand apply pressure at the tip of my finger to resist the ring finger from flexing. My forearm then gets tight and i experience displeasure. trott, this is a great description, well done. Have a very close look at this drawing:  Notice that the writing that says "flexor digitorum profundus" is written on a tendon. If you follow that tendon toward the hand, you will notice it goes to the 4th digit (commonly known as the ring finger). Notice also that the tendon of FDP that goes to the 4th digit is the longest tendon, or, conversely, the shortest muscle belly. This makes the 4th digit slip of FDP the weakest one, therefore the most prone to injury, if equal force is applied to all. Your injury is likely a muscle strain (=tear) of FDP. The length of time it has been hanging around indicates poor healing. I would recommend specifically strengthening it. You may need to provide enough force to it to make it painful, HOWEVER, it should NEVER be worse immediately after working on it. Manual force is probably as good as anything. Do not crimp. Learn to use open grip. Your climbing career will thank you. PS: if anybody knows how to upload the Gray's anatomy drawing without needing to click on it, please feel free.
I found this image online- 
demonstrates the different lengths well....
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