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Pilot Mountain NC Beta Wanted
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kmc


May 1, 2011, 7:23 AM
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Registered: May 24, 2006
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Pilot Mountain NC Beta Wanted
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This upcoming weekend I will be relatively close to Pilot Mountain NC, and it looks like I may be able to sneak in a day of climbing, or afternoon at least, on Friday 5/06. Being that I have not been to the area, I have numerous questions...

1. I read that you need a climbing pass. Is this basically a day pass type of thing that I could obtain/purchase while I am there?

2. I prefer traditional climbing over sport. Most of the pictures that I see on various websites suggests that this area is more of a sport crag. Are lines protected with gear as well as bolts?

3. On gear, I generally feel comfortable up to 5.10, sometimes a little higher when climbing well, but in new areas like to start off on 5.7 or .8 until I can learn the rock. What routes, especially gear protected routes, should I check out in this range, and what are the must do routes?

4. Finally, I do not have a guide book for the area, and would like to avoid purchasing one if possible. Are there typically other climbers in the area on any given Friday, that might be able to point me in the right direction while I'm there?

Thanks in advance, and feel free to move this thread to the Regional Discussions. I was unable to post there directly.


TarHeelEMT


May 1, 2011, 7:52 AM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
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Re: [kmc] Pilot Mountain NC Beta Wanted [In reply to]
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1) The pass is a formality. You fill out some rescue relevant information on a piece of paper, put the white copy in a box and keep the yellow one with you at all times. They do come around and check, so keep it with you.

2) There are some sport routes, and a few routes that I've led on gear, but the rock quality is pretty bad for the most part, and a fall on gear could damage the rock and/or pull out your gear in a lot of places.

3) I don't go to Pilot often, but I've led some stuff in the Little Amphitheater (I think... long time ago) that was in that range.

4) Stop by the office on your way in and pick up a climbers' guide from the office staff.


TarHeelEMT


May 1, 2011, 7:53 AM
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Re: [kmc] Pilot Mountain NC Beta Wanted [In reply to]
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http://carolinaclimbers.org/...tainGuideBooklet.pdf


kmc


May 1, 2011, 8:46 AM
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Re: [TarHeelEMT] Pilot Mountain NC Beta Wanted [In reply to]
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Thanks for the replies. It doesnt appear that you are giving the area your glowing endorsement. Is there another/better crag you would recomend that is close to High Point, NC (where I will be visiting)? I chose Pilot b/c it seems to be relatively close (1 hr according to google). The climbin at Stone Mtn. looks great, but a two hour drive may be a little too far after the 8 hrs we will be driving through the night, the evening before.

Thanks again.


TarHeelEMT


May 1, 2011, 11:30 AM
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Re: [kmc] Pilot Mountain NC Beta Wanted [In reply to]
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Well, Pilot is OK - it's just not my cup of tea. For the most part it's an area that has a ton of top ropes with bolted anchors and easy access to the top. As such, it's generally a zoo. The climbing can be quite good, though. It's just not the place to go for leading on gear.

Just across the highway is Moore's Wall if you're into moderate trad. It has a bunch of one and two pitch routes in the 5.5-5.10 range. The rock is quality quartzite, and the routes are for the most part very good. Descents can be tricky, though, so make sure you pay careful attention to descent instructions and maybe even ask a local before you go about getting down from your intended routes. They're either walk-downs that aren't immediately obvious or hard to find rappel anchors for the most part.

Great trad climbing, though.


csproul


May 3, 2011, 5:50 PM
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Re: [kmc] Pilot Mountain NC Beta Wanted [In reply to]
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kmc wrote:
This upcoming weekend I will be relatively close to Pilot Mountain NC, and it looks like I may be able to sneak in a day of climbing, or afternoon at least, on Friday 5/06. Being that I have not been to the area, I have numerous questions...

1. I read that you need a climbing pass. Is this basically a day pass type of thing that I could obtain/purchase while I am there?

2. I prefer traditional climbing over sport. Most of the pictures that I see on various websites suggests that this area is more of a sport crag. Are lines protected with gear as well as bolts?

3. On gear, I generally feel comfortable up to 5.10, sometimes a little higher when climbing well, but in new areas like to start off on 5.7 or .8 until I can learn the rock. What routes, especially gear protected routes, should I check out in this range, and what are the must do routes?

4. Finally, I do not have a guide book for the area, and would like to avoid purchasing one if possible. Are there typically other climbers in the area on any given Friday, that might be able to point me in the right direction while I'm there?

Thanks in advance, and feel free to move this thread to the Regional Discussions. I was unable to post there directly.
There are few gear lines at Pilot worth doing. Some of the rock is chossy and gear can be suspect. There are some nice sport and mixed lines at Pilot, but it is not really a destination. TH is right, it can be a zoo, there are a lot of gumbies, gang-toproping, loud obnoxious people, boyscouts, sport rappellers....but there are still a few lines worth doing. That said, if you are looking for trad, go to Moores. They are in the same area, and there are a good # of easy-moderate lines at Moores that will not have the crowds you'll see at Pilot. There is a free guide to Pilot, you'll have a harder time finding climbs at Moore's without a guidebook or someone to show you around.


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