Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Competition Climbing:
training for speed climbing competitions?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Competition Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


PlasticHead


Mar 19, 2010, 9:53 AM
Post #26 of 38 (5105 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [deltav] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

deltav wrote:
I hope they help. Don't forget, you have to compete in 3 locals in order to qualify for regionals.

yeah, I'm a member of USA climbing and I've already competed in one comp. Theres 3 more before regionals and I will be going to all of them.


younggun


Mar 24, 2010, 12:34 PM
Post #27 of 38 (5071 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 8, 2005
Posts: 31

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

The best practice for speed climbing is to practice speed climbing. When practicing, you need to be able to peddle hand then foot type climbing and you also need to be able to dyno 2 handed from move to move. Depending on how the route is set, one way might be faster than the other. At high level competitions, they usually change the sequence so that peddling is faster, then, dyno to dyno to dyno, then back to peddling. The trick is to recognize the sequence so you can execute either technique and change it mid-route as needed. Most important is a fast start, so make sure the first 3 moves are wired to get ahead and rattle your opponent.


usacpnw


May 4, 2010, 4:23 PM
Post #28 of 38 (4839 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2006
Posts: 66

Re: [younggun] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just an FYI - They will be using the IFSC Official Speed Holds at SCS Nationals.


keinangst


Aug 11, 2010, 1:19 PM
Post #29 of 38 (4640 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 31, 2003
Posts: 1408

Re: [usacpnw] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This sounds like an anaerobic sprint, so don't both with Versaclimbers, burpees, etc (IMHO).

I assume it's going to be vertical or slightly slabby to focus more on max speed. Either way, your legs are going to do virtually all of the driving, so I'd work plyometric box jumps, tuck jumps (or double-unders with a jumprope), and maybe barbell thrusters (front squat, up to shoulder press in one movement).

And, of course, stairs in a stadium. 2-3 steps at a time, FAST.

Another explosive, anaerobic leg exercise I like is jumping lunges (or scissor lunges). Standing in place, jump from one lunge to the next without taking an interim stance. These should devastate your glutes and train fast-twitch fibers without adding mass.


clim.br


Mar 18, 2011, 11:30 AM
Post #30 of 38 (4279 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 20

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

[quote "PlasticHead"

How about Burpee pullups? I heard those work burst power but I'm sure how that could help with speed climbing.

All you need is a timer, and a pullup bar or something similiar that requires one to jump up and grab in order to do the pullup.

The goal is to do them as quickly as possible. Start off with 20 for example, and record how long it takes to do them.

Start by jumping up and grabbing the bar, do a pullup, drop down, do a pushup, spring back up on your feet and jump up to the bar.
Thats 1 burpee pullup.
20 of them sounds pretty brutal (to me at least).

Just to add, you really need to work on your Type II muscle group, and one way of doing it, is doing reps as fast as you can.


shockabuku


Mar 18, 2011, 12:34 PM
Post #31 of 38 (4271 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4860

Re: [clim.br] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The national finalists in speed climbing for youth B and above are almost guaranteed to be those who spend time training on the standard speed route. It uses unique holds



in a (semi-) standard arrangement at a fixed angle - getting the route dialed is the key to success at that level. It's unfortunate that only a few gyms in the country have it available.

http://www.top30climbingwalls.com/...e=313&idage=4096


billcoe_


Apr 12, 2011, 9:18 AM
Post #32 of 38 (4042 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4668

Re: [johngalt] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johngalt wrote:
Thanks for the tip Jo.

I've adopted a "theme/motto" over the last few years. it is: "don't get injured during the training." Better to go off the couch and get injured in the performance than injured in the training and not get to do the performance. You may replace the word "performance" with "adventure" or "climbing trip," etc...

That said. YES- if you want to improve your speed climbing do an action with less weight and make the movement faster than you normally would.

cheers,

Hans

ps. I'm giving a clinic at Rockn & Jamn in Denver on Feb 19th. - but it's more about NIAD skills not comp speed climbing.

It's interesting to me that one of the most noted speed climbers in the country checked in on this subject and gets ignored.


JasonsDrivingForce


Apr 29, 2011, 1:28 PM
Post #33 of 38 (3905 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 687

Re: [billcoe_] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was at Stone Summit(SCS nationals gym for this year). They had the standard 30 foot speed route setup so I decided to try. It is a lot harder than it looks. I probably took 30 seconds or more to get up the 30 foot route.

The Team Texas youth team came over a few minutes later and one kid blasted off a 5.9 second sprint(literally he sprinted up the wall).

There is no replacement for simply practicing the standard route. The kids who do that a lot always have an advantage over the kids that don't.


(This post was edited by JasonsDrivingForce on May 3, 2011, 7:06 AM)


shockabuku


May 3, 2011, 5:52 AM
Post #34 of 38 (3870 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4860

Re: [JasonsDrivingForce] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
I was at Stone Summit(SCS nationals gym for this year). They had the standard 30 meter speed route setup so I decided to try. It is a lot harder than it looks. I probably took 30 seconds or more to get up the 30 meter route.

The Team Texas youth team came over a few minutes later and one kid blasted off a 5.9 second sprint(literally he sprinted up the wall).

There is no replacement for simply practicing the standard route. The kids who do that a lot always have an advantage over the kids that don't.

The route that Stone Summit has up is not the full length route used in international speed comps.


olderic


May 3, 2011, 7:04 AM
Post #35 of 38 (3860 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1536

Re: [JasonsDrivingForce] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not 30 m - either 10 or 15 is the standard:

http://www.epusa.com/..._Wall_Tech_Pages.pdf


JasonsDrivingForce


May 3, 2011, 7:05 AM
Post #36 of 38 (3860 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 687

Re: [shockabuku] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:

The route that Stone Summit has up is not the full length route used in international speed comps.

It is the youth B, A, and juniors route that they will use at the "youth" nationals this summer, right? Is the route at Stone Summit the first 30 feet of the full 45 foot route for international competitions?


JasonsDrivingForce


May 3, 2011, 7:08 AM
Post #37 of 38 (3857 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 687

Re: [olderic] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

olderic wrote:
Not 30 m - either 10 or 15 is the standard:

http://www.epusa.com/..._Wall_Tech_Pages.pdf

Yes that is correct. Sorry that was a supposed to be 30 feet instead of 30 meters.


shockabuku


May 3, 2011, 7:24 AM
Post #38 of 38 (3854 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4860

Re: [JasonsDrivingForce] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
shockabuku wrote:

The route that Stone Summit has up is not the full length route used in international speed comps.

It is the youth B, A, and juniors route that they will use at the "youth" nationals this summer, right?
Yes, at least presumably.

In reply to:
Is the route at Stone Summit the first 30 feet of the full 45 foot route for international competitions?
I believe so though I've heard there were a few minor modifications besides the length - I'm not sure where/what.

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Competition Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$34.16 (10% off)
$17.95 (10% off)
$76.46 (10% off)
$175.00 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook