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suggestions for climb areas - 3 wks in Jan 2012
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mhagny


May 12, 2011, 12:19 PM
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Registered: Nov 3, 2002
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suggestions for climb areas - 3 wks in Jan 2012  (Australasia: New_Zealand)
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My climbing partner & I will be in New Zealand for awhile and looking for the best areas for craggin' and multi-pitch climbs, either sport or trad. Either N Island or South Island is fine. We're no stonemasters, so I think areas with lots of routes with grades of 16 - 22 in the Ewbank system would be about right. (We're Yanks, so this guess is based on conversions from our YDS. And apologies in advance for being Yanks . . . . Smile)

I'm there mostly for climbing and other adventure sports -- no particular desire for long approaches. Nearby towns or hostels with hot water and food will also be appreciated. Any info on these topics is greatly appreciated !!


sum_won_els


Sep 26, 2011, 1:35 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2011
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Re: [mhagny] suggestions for climb areas - 3 wks in Jan 2012 [In reply to]
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Hi. Here are a couple of good sites for info and guides on NZ climbing - mojozone.co.nz; www.freeclimb.co.nz; www.climb.co.nz.

On the North Island, the most accessible, fun and best bolted rock is Frogatt. There are several other good crags near here; if you only check out one other make it Waipapa - beautiful technical climbing in an idyllic location. There is a climber's cafe / hostel nearby run by Bryce - one of the godfathers of NZ climbing.

About 60km South West of here is Mangaokewa (5 minutes from the town Te Kuiti); a recently developed limestone crag with a large overghanging section that keeps many of the routes dry in adverse weather. Another great crag.

There are a couple on the edge of lake Taupo - Kinloch is a great one for a relaxed day climbing and swimming in the sun, Kawa Kawa bay has a long hike in, so I'm not sure you'll be keen on that one. Whanganui bay (on the west edge of the lake) is another perfectly located one.

My personal favourite on the North Island is Ti Point. It's 10 minutes drive from the nearest town and 30 minutes walk down a track along the sea. 35m sea cliffs with dolphins in the water and the sun on your back. Great rock in a wonderful location. The bolting is dubious and in need of some work, but if you've got trad gear you'll be all good.

As for the South Island - Payne's Ford, near Takaka on the Northern tip is a must-see. Great limestone, hundreds of routes and a good community. There is some great (and difficult) bouldering at Castle Hill, Arthur's Pass. There's some good sport and multi-pitch sport near Queenstown.

My favourite set of crags on the South Island has to be Hospital Flat, Wanaka. Loads of routes, real frictional, positive and interesting rock and great climbs. The town is set on a lake surrounded by high mountains and is like Queenstown's pretty and quiet little sister.

Wow, that ended up being long!

Get in touch when you're in Auckland!

Paul


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