|
granite_grrl
Apr 29, 2011, 7:44 PM
Post #1 of 22
(3092 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
I got a kitchen table a few weeks ago that I rather like, but it's pretty beat up. I was going to strip it, sand it, reseal it.....but the wood has cracked where it's been glued together on the table top: Image 1 and 2 are of the same, and worst split. Images 3 and 4 are at opposite ends of the same joint pieces. So....what's the best way to fix this?
|
|
|
|
|
imnotclever
Apr 29, 2011, 7:57 PM
Post #2 of 22
(3087 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 10000
|
Pop it off the base, clean up the edges on the tablesaw and then biscuit it back together.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Apr 29, 2011, 8:01 PM
Post #3 of 22
(3085 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
Well, it split at the glue joint, so there is now glue on both sides of the split, so squeezing more in and clamping it won't work; the new glue will just be bonding to the old, failed glue. The only real way to fix it is to take the top off, run it through a table saw where the joint gets removed by the blade, and then regluing on the bare wood. I wish I could tell you that there is an easier way, but there isn't.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Apr 29, 2011, 8:04 PM
Post #4 of 22
(3081 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
imnotclever wrote: Pop it off the base, clean up the edges on the tablesaw and then biscuit it back together. Biscuits aren't necessary if you get a good, tight fit of wood to wood; the glue joint would then be stronger than the surrounding wood. They might help you line the piece up if it is cupped lengthwise, but I would just glue and clamp it and line it up with a rubber mallet to knock it into place as you tighten the clamps. Run your finger across the joint to feel when it is flush; more accurate than doing it by sight.
(This post was edited by edge on Apr 29, 2011, 8:04 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Apr 29, 2011, 8:13 PM
Post #5 of 22
(3070 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
Damn, no way to cheat? The table is pretty darn solid, I just want to make it look pretty.
|
|
|
|
|
traddad
Apr 29, 2011, 8:13 PM
Post #6 of 22
(3070 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 14, 2001
Posts: 7129
|
Both of Edge's comments +1. I'd probably go at it with my jointer plane rather than the saw.. Yes, I am a curmudgeon.
|
|
|
|
|
climber49er
Apr 29, 2011, 8:26 PM
Post #7 of 22
(3064 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2003
Posts: 1404
|
granite_grrl wrote: Damn, no way to cheat? The table is pretty darn solid, I just want to make it look pretty. Nope, if you try to glue it as is, you'll just make busy work for yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
imnotclever
Apr 29, 2011, 8:28 PM
Post #8 of 22
(3064 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2003
Posts: 10000
|
edge wrote: imnotclever wrote: Pop it off the base, clean up the edges on the tablesaw and then biscuit it back together. Biscuits aren't necessary if you get a good, tight fit of wood to wood; the glue joint would then be stronger than the surrounding wood. They might help you line the piece up if it is cupped lengthwise, but I would just glue and clamp it and line it up with a rubber mallet to knock it into place as you tighten the clamps. Run your finger across the joint to feel when it is flush; more accurate than doing it by sight. But I've got a biscuit jointer, but no regular jointer. I'm left with table saw tight joints.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
Apr 29, 2011, 8:46 PM
Post #9 of 22
(3057 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
imnotclever wrote: edge wrote: imnotclever wrote: Pop it off the base, clean up the edges on the tablesaw and then biscuit it back together. Biscuits aren't necessary if you get a good, tight fit of wood to wood; the glue joint would then be stronger than the surrounding wood. They might help you line the piece up if it is cupped lengthwise, but I would just glue and clamp it and line it up with a rubber mallet to knock it into place as you tighten the clamps. Run your finger across the joint to feel when it is flush; more accurate than doing it by sight. But I've got a biscuit jointer, but no regular jointer. I'm left with table saw tight joints. Which should be sufficient if you use a sharp rip blade and the edge against the fence is dead straight. A cleat of straight plywood could be screwed to the underside to ride against the fence. Of course I have all of the equipment and would follow up with my mechanical jointer or hand held Stanley Bailey #7 or 8 jointer plane. If the joint is not tight, the biscuits would hold it together but you risk the same sort of seperation as the original problem. Plus the glue that "fills" irregularities will expand and contract with changes in humidity and telegraph through the finish.
(This post was edited by edge on Apr 29, 2011, 8:47 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Apr 29, 2011, 8:51 PM
Post #10 of 22
(3052 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
climber49er wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Damn, no way to cheat? The table is pretty darn solid, I just want to make it look pretty. Nope, if you try to glue it as is, you'll just make busy work for yourself. And by doing it the right way I pretty much just make work for Chossy......which sounds better than it is considering I'm still waiting for a kitchen that he started 2 years ago.
|
|
|
|
|
Diphthong
Apr 29, 2011, 9:09 PM
Post #11 of 22
(3050 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
|
Heh, she said wood.
|
|
|
|
|
wjca
May 2, 2011, 4:28 PM
Post #12 of 22
(3002 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2005
Posts: 7545
|
edge wrote: imnotclever wrote: edge wrote: imnotclever wrote: Pop it off the base, clean up the edges on the tablesaw and then biscuit it back together. Biscuits aren't necessary if you get a good, tight fit of wood to wood; the glue joint would then be stronger than the surrounding wood. They might help you line the piece up if it is cupped lengthwise, but I would just glue and clamp it and line it up with a rubber mallet to knock it into place as you tighten the clamps. Run your finger across the joint to feel when it is flush; more accurate than doing it by sight. But I've got a biscuit jointer, but no regular jointer. I'm left with table saw tight joints. Which should be sufficient if you use a sharp rip blade and the edge against the fence is dead straight. A cleat of straight plywood could be screwed to the underside to ride against the fence. Of course I have all of the equipment and would follow up with my mechanical jointer or hand held Stanley Bailey #7 or 8 jointer plane. If the joint is not tight, the biscuits would hold it together but you risk the same sort of seperation as the original problem. Plus the glue that "fills" irregularities will expand and contract with changes in humidity and telegraph through the finish. It's also possible to joint the edge with a router and flush trim bit if you had a straight edge to run the router against. Wouldn't have to have a table saw.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
May 2, 2011, 4:30 PM
Post #13 of 22
(3000 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
Of course the easiest solution to the original problem is to use a tablecloth.
|
|
|
|
|
Diphthong
May 2, 2011, 4:34 PM
Post #14 of 22
(2995 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2011
Posts: 2639
|
edge wrote: Of course the easiest solution to the original problem is to use a tablecloth. Occam's wood planer.
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
May 2, 2011, 7:37 PM
Post #15 of 22
(2979 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
edge wrote: The only real way to fix it is to take the top off, run it through a table saw where the joint gets removed by the blade, and then regluing on the bare wood. I wish I could tell you that there is an easier way, but there isn't. +1 After trueing up the split and re-glueing, sand the table with a bit of 100 grt and after things are nice and even get some 350 grt and go over the joint well ad the rest of the table remember to get some tack cloth and get all the dust off the surface when it all smooth. after stain in your favorite shade the joint should be hard to see.
|
|
|
|
|
edge
May 2, 2011, 8:10 PM
Post #16 of 22
(2974 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
Diphthong wrote: edge wrote: Of course the easiest solution to the original problem is to use a tablecloth. Occam's wood planer. You can trim the tablecloth with a razor, but pinking shears will keep the edges from fraying.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
May 12, 2011, 10:52 PM
Post #17 of 22
(2886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
That doesn't sound gay at all.
|
|
|
|
|
chatreed
May 13, 2011, 8:52 AM
Post #18 of 22
(2866 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2011
Posts: 23
|
glue cannt make up the crack,I think
|
|
|
|
|
edge
May 13, 2011, 1:42 PM
Post #19 of 22
(2861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9120
|
j_ung wrote: That doesn't sound gay at all. ~*~ Fabulous! ~*~
|
|
|
|
|
jorgle
May 17, 2011, 9:38 PM
Post #20 of 22
(2801 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2002
Posts: 236
|
sand, glue then use a pocket drill to tighten up everything. J
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
May 17, 2011, 10:11 PM
Post #21 of 22
(2797 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
jorgle wrote: sand, glue then use a pocket drill to tighten up everything. J I like your style dude, but I might have to go with Edge with this one.
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
May 24, 2011, 5:18 AM
Post #22 of 22
(2740 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
I have the perfect solution. Fill the joint with silicone and screw it together with a few roofing screws. The hex heads on those screws won't stick out of the top of the table that much. When finished do the table cloth thing as already suggested. Job done.
|
|
|
|
|
|