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miico000
Oct 12, 2010, 12:58 AM
Post #1976 of 2156
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Registered: Dec 5, 2006
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Anyone know the current official parking beta for breakneck? Is it still ok to park at the pull off on the right where the trail starts off from the road? There are so many posted and no trespassing signs up there now due to parking issues with the landowner living up the road to the right, that it is hard to tell what is OK and what is not. Don't want to cause any access issues, with one landowner already upset. Are the parking directions on the Breakneck main page still legit? Note: DO NOT park in the pull-out in the field to the right of the main road and do not park on the road that goes up the hill to the right, the landowner will tow your vehicle, both these areas are now posted, some with no parking signs as well.
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mountainman
Oct 19, 2010, 1:16 PM
Post #1977 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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It's hard to know the best thing to do. Just don't block the road for the locals. I've parked in both places without consequence, but maybe I was just lucky.
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markc
Oct 19, 2010, 4:01 PM
Post #1978 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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The best advice for parking at Breakneck is to carpool and to maximize the spaces that are there. These days, I only use the gravel pull-off next to the trailhead. You do pass a couple old "No Trespassing" signs, but it's well in advance of the "No ATV" sign. I've never had trouble there.
I've seen a couple cars park on grass on the left-hand side as you're driving in. This is near the T for the dirt road that goes up the hill on the right, and sort of in front of a blue-gray house. I have no idea if it's okay to park there.
I've started to leave my name and number on a note under my windshield. I hate leaving my phone on at the crag, but I'd rather run down, apologize, and work to mend any harm done than try to figure out where my car is at the end of the day.
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trockclimbing
Oct 21, 2010, 1:18 AM
Post #1979 of 2156
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Registered: May 15, 2009
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As wise man once told me "if you don't know don't go!" & "Learn to look ahead and to know what you want to avoid".
I would advise to simply ask the apparent land owners if parking is still allowed, or if anything can be done to rectify the current situation, rather than creating any problems that could result cars being towed or even worst " cliff closure".
We as climbers have to learn to take the high road.
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mountainman
Oct 24, 2010, 5:42 PM
Post #1980 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Tick List:
Layne led everything; I also led Bongo.
Friday October 23 - 16 star day
Whippoorwill - Summersville Lake
Cowboy in the Dirt, 5.8
Gimme a Clown, 5.9
Masuko, 5.11a
Bongo, 5.7
Whinerlamer, 5.8
Jowiki, 5.10a (we each ran a lap)
Saturday October 24 - Endless Wall - 14 s day
Kaymore Slab Area
Fool Effect, 5.9
Hellbound Area
Glass Onion, 5.110b
Fantasy Area
Aesthetica, 5.11c
Black and Tan, 5.10a
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mountainman
Oct 24, 2010, 6:03 PM
Post #1981 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Trip Report, October 22-23, 2010
We met @ 6:45 AM Friday, and Layne drove. The colors might be at their peaks, and the golds and reds were breathtaking, mind blowing. As always, Layne’s music was outstanding, although I like it louder.
It’s just over three hours with a rest stop, straight down I-79 into West Virgina for a hundred miles, then 30 miles down US 19 to the first climbs. I’ve been asking about Whippoorwill, so we went there. The approach is the shortest in the area, and the descent gully is easy. It turns out I was there about ten years ago, the very first day I ever went to the New. I recognized it immediately. It’s across the bridge from the ‘normal’ Summersville climbs, and there are awesome walls here. It’s incredibly beautiful, reminiscent of desert cliffs at waters edge out west. I found a fairly new pair of climbing shoes in the sand, but they were too small for me.
It was cold for a while, but there wasn’t a cloud all day. There’s a breeze along the lake, and it was probably in the 30s until the sun found us, then we got hot. We started on a 5.8, Cowboy in the Dirt “a nice journey up mushroomed holds.” Then we did the nine to the right, Gimme a Clown. Really hard start, pumpy up to the second bolt, then delightful knobs. People and dogs showed up so we moved over to Masuko, 5.11a. It was a four star masterpiece. So many wild moves, so pumpy. I didn’t get it clean, but did make every move and believe it is the best climb I’ve ever done!
I stepped up and cranked out only my third lead in the area, Bongo, 5.7. She always had a jug, except for one slopey spot. I was really excited and very happy to do a new lead. Then we went around the corner into the shade, and Layne led a nasty, weird 5.8, Whinerlamer. Weird, and not to be repeated! Then we did Jowiki, 5.10a, a delightful route that was so much fun we each did it twice.
A 16 star day! The hike out isn’t bad and it’s real short. Then we crusied into Fayetteville and I turned the shoes into Waterstone, then we hiked down to Diogi’s Mexican, which is the happening place in F’ville. I had the best veggie burrito. It turns out the lady owner was, and will be again, vegetarian, so she knows how to make a great one. Muy sabrosa!. Roger’s was pretty busy. We camped right down the hill from the car on the terrace, so to speak. I could barely get up to brush my teeth, and despite having an incredible book to read, slept long and well, glad I had my OR hat and my fleece sleeping bag liner and a good pad, cause it got cold.
Saturday was gorgeous, another cloudless masterpiece. We freshened up at the Nat’l Park Center, then out Lansing Road to the second turnout. Layne knew a shortcut, and I realized it was the time of year to do the long approaches, as it’s nice to do the hike in before the day warmed up. We scampered down the Honeymoon Ladders (All the ladders are now metal and very solid, with catwalks and hand rails).
We walked to the right ahead of everybody, past a poor deer that must have tumbled from the top right at Strike a Scowl. We hope the guys we told will report it for removal. It will get pretty bad in a few days. We got down to the Kaymoor Slabs and did a four star, Fool Effect, 5.9, a real delight and with awesome views across the gorge. It was really warm climbing in the sun, and really long: 13 bolts!. I trailed my Beal, as we needed to tie two ropes together to make it down.
We also walked past Totally-Clipse 5.8 (which I led once, on my only trip to the New with Ray Tuttle, probably four years ago)
By then, a melange of kids and dogs had arrived, so we headed back a little to the Hellbound Area, and did Glass Onion, 5.10b. Just one touch section; I came off it once, but figured it out. It was really fun moves. Two Stars. It was also pretty hot.
We then moved back past the ladders and cruised down to the Fantasy Area, and did another four star, Aesthetica, 5.11c (incredible move after incredible move. I only came off once, then did the big reach. The top and the roof weren’t so pumpy or hard, just fantastic fun. What a lead for Layne! What a stud!!! (Of course he always is. He leads everything and as he progresses, I progress. What a team. I’m so lucky he’s my friend)
We finished on Black and Tan, 5.10a (four stars), a multi hued corner with robust finger-locking with stems and delicate face climbing. A real joy (came off once!)
It was after four, so Layne suggested we walk down to the the Cirque Ladders and see the Cirque, so we did. It was a really long way, and we passed a plethora of very hard climbs. We finally made it! We saw Mike Williams, the famous guidebook author, climbing, then climbed out the excellent metal ladders and we made it to the car for a total of 960 feet of elevation gain in 7 hours 55 minutes.
It was the best two days of climbing ever, and every day climbing with Layne and all my friends have led me to this level, climbing better than I ever had in my life!
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mountainman
Nov 15, 2010, 8:01 AM
Post #1982 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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Four days in the Red River Gorge. Stellar....
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charley
Nov 25, 2010, 3:17 PM
Post #1983 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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It looks like we won't be climbing outside for awhile with all this rain. Have happy turkey day.
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pyoor
Nov 30, 2010, 7:26 PM
Post #1984 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 5, 2010
Posts: 22
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Can anyone recommend a good sports medicine doctor in the Pittsburgh area? I've been struggling with an injury to my upper arm and I've seen 4 doctors so far, none with a concrete (or accurate) diagnosis.
Thanks!
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joeforte
Dec 1, 2010, 3:52 AM
Post #1985 of 2156
(21053 views)
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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trockclimbing wrote: As wise man once told me "if you don't know don't go!" & "Learn to look ahead and to know what you want to avoid". I would advise to simply ask the apparent land owners if parking is still allowed, or if anything can be done to rectify the current situation, rather than creating any problems that could result cars being towed or even worst " cliff closure". We as climbers have to learn to take the high road.
Very well said~!
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stuckinflatlands
Feb 19, 2011, 9:17 PM
Post #1986 of 2156
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Registered: Aug 26, 2008
Posts: 5
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I'm moving to Johnstown this summer for a job, and I'm wondering which areas close-by have the best quality climbs in the 5.10 to 5.12 range, not to mention looking for someone to hold the other end of the rope = )
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truello
Feb 22, 2011, 5:41 AM
Post #1987 of 2156
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Registered: Oct 1, 2006
Posts: 737
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I'm going to assume you're interested in sport climbs... There isn't much around Johnstown though there are a few top roping areas (Beams, 90 foot..)
Your best bet is looking into the SW PA section of this site. Ohiopyle has a lot too offer as well as the entire Connellsville area. Most of the crags are limited in the number of routes they have, though, so between 5.10 and 5.12 you'll be lucky if you can get on 5 different routes in that range at one area.
The New River Gorge is well worth the drive as well.
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trockclimbing
Feb 22, 2011, 2:46 PM
Post #1988 of 2156
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Registered: May 15, 2009
Posts: 6
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Looking for a local (Pittsburgh/Robinson Area) week day climbing partner. Would like to climb at some of the local crags during the week. Not into large groups. I have been climbing for over 18yrs from big walls in the valley to some large ice and so on. If things workout willing to repay the belays with any bigwall, rock climb or ice route of your choice (Within reason and ability) if interested send PM.
T
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charley
Mar 4, 2011, 2:11 AM
Post #1989 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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I hope you folks are getting out on some rock somewhere. I spent the afternoon about a mile and a half up in the woods on the top of a big hill playing on some North Carolina rocks. Just a little hideaway place a little north of Roxboro up near the virginia border. I had a fun day and hope it is the start of a good year on the rock. I hope to see lot's of you out there this year.
Climb on!!
(This post was edited by charley on Mar 5, 2011, 9:05 PM)
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mountainman
Mar 5, 2011, 4:39 PM
Post #1990 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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It certainly is looking like spring. Visions of tasty rock is dancing in climbers' heads.
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mountainman
Mar 21, 2011, 11:54 AM
Post #1991 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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A plethora of my friends went down to Cumberland, MD Sunday, March 20 and climbed at Locust Grove. It was pretty cold and windy but became balmy. Pretty hard climbs for the first day of the new season.
Now the rains are back, and the 10 day forecast doesn't look very good.
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deadclmbr
Mar 26, 2011, 9:11 PM
Post #1992 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 26, 2011
Posts: 3
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I'm from Connellsville originally. Climbed at Spruce Hollow forever until Breakneck Rocks began development. I now live in Morgantown and have caught wind of some sport routes at Snake Hill. Please Please someone tell me where this is. I cannot find any info.
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deadclmbr
Mar 26, 2011, 9:27 PM
Post #1993 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 26, 2011
Posts: 3
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I'm also looking to contact a girl whom I met at Breakneck Rocks on March 13th. It was a Sunday. We talked Penguins hockey.
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climbingpa
Mar 30, 2011, 2:06 PM
Post #1994 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 4, 2008
Posts: 37
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Which Snake Hill are you referring to WV or PA? Speaking of early Breakneck days, You must know Dave and Bryce.
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deadclmbr
Mar 30, 2011, 11:59 PM
Post #1995 of 2156
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Registered: Mar 26, 2011
Posts: 3
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This would be the Snake Hill just outside of Morgantown WV. Yea I know those guys. I believe they were the ones that bolted the two on the lower slab at Breakneck. I'm pretty sure they were running out of bits. Hence the singe shuts. Don't quote me on that. I also spent a a few days cleaning rock up there. It's really good to see that access still is not a problem.
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climbingpa
Mar 31, 2011, 5:39 PM
Post #1996 of 2156
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Registered: Apr 4, 2008
Posts: 37
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Access seems to be fine at the moment, but parking is not. All the old parking areas are now posted. Folks have been parking down by the ball field and walking up from there.
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mountainman
Apr 3, 2011, 3:31 PM
Post #1997 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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The weather is definitely warming next week. Climbing plans are being made. Seize the day!!
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Couloirman
Apr 3, 2011, 7:37 PM
Post #1998 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 13, 2008
Posts: 109
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Hey guys,
I am looking for a climbing partner in southwestern PA. I know of a great area to climb in the Derry/Ligonier/Bolivar area if anyone lives nearby. If you have a drill it is a plus as an anchor or two needs to be re-bolted in the near future but I don't have the gear currently but will gladly pay for the bolts and hangars. I live in Boston right now but am almost done with my masters thesis this week and am coming home for vacation and am dying to climb but none of my PGH friends climb. Shoot me a PM if you want to talk about getting together. Ill have my rack and rope with me but plan on top roping almost exclusively.
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mountainman
May 12, 2011, 12:12 PM
Post #1999 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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I was there yesterday, and it certainly could use some shuts! I hope to meet you soon.
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mountainman
May 17, 2011, 12:46 PM
Post #2000 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
Posts: 337
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Climbed twice last week, but the rain is making this week tough!!!
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