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Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses?
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yodadave


May 29, 2011, 11:26 AM
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Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses?
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Hey so i work at a ropes course and just retired a bunch of worn belay devices.
I would like to replace them with steel so the next batch don't wear down as quick. My options appear to be the DMM v-twin or the JUL.
JUL is cheaper, kids like bright colors and for a ropes course setting i can't think of any time i would need 2 slots. (i would love not having to explain the second slot to kids every day as well)
However i've never held a JUL and i have no idea how durable the synthetic retaining loop is. I imagine i'll have to go with the v-twin but anyone got good stuff to say about the JUL?


justanotherclimber


May 29, 2011, 2:48 PM
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Re: [yodadave] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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its a fine device, durable, works well on the skinny lines- that retaining loop will be far more durable than the one on the v-twin, imho.

maybe split the difference on devices and use them both?


yodadave


May 30, 2011, 11:10 AM
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Re: [justanotherclimber] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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thanks for the opinion, i appreciate it.
Any others?


tower_climber


May 30, 2011, 8:53 PM
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Re: [yodadave] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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Hi Dave.

As someone who makes a living on alpine towers and ropes courses, here is my opinion:

If you are dead-set on using a steel device, go with the V-Twin. The JUL has no high-friction side (and not all participants are small, are they) and the synthetic keeper loop makes me nervous.

With that said, I would stick with whatever device your program and/or builder recommends. If you are taking decent care of your ropes, you should be able to get more than 300 hours of use out of a Trango JAWS or an ATC-XP. That is more than you should be getting out of your ropes, a far more expensive commodity.

Where are you working in NC?


yodadave


May 31, 2011, 7:10 PM
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Re: [tower_climber] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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Hey tower,
I actually just moved to CA but worked the last 6 yrs on an AT near Bryson City NC so I'm familiar with the jaws. You make a good point about participant size. My issue is that I'm now in an area with highly abrasive decomposed granite every where and even with rope buckets i feel like ropes are going to shred belay devices in way under 300hrs. If the anecdotal records here are to be trusted the ATCs i just retired aren't that old. Also there is no builder recommendation according to the inspection i just had done where we went on a retire fest.
So i figure why not use the Steel and see how long they last.


tower_climber


May 31, 2011, 7:23 PM
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Re: [yodadave] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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Ah. Valid points.

My vote goes for the DMM then. I just don't like the idea of a device without friction options. And that synthetic keeper loop makes me wonder how long you could use the device before the steel insert just popped out.

I am conducting a training over the next few days and will be working with several industry pros. I'll run your situation by them and let you know what I hear. From the horse's mouth, so to speak.


yodadave


Jun 1, 2011, 9:34 AM
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Re: [tower_climber] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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thanks, i'd appreciate it.


StudentoftheEarth


Jan 8, 2012, 8:00 AM
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Re: [yodadave] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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I stumbled upon this when searching for reviews of the Jul. I can't help but notice "Tower Climber" stating that there are not options for friction, but this review

http://www.climbing.com/print/equipment/new_and_notable_edelrid_jul_-_2010_gear_guide/

states otherwise. Anyway I'm just curious what you decided as I'm looking for some more information from people who have used the Jul. I'm thinking about purchasing one myself.


yodadave


Jan 8, 2012, 8:21 AM
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Re: [StudentoftheEarth] Edelrid Jul for single pitch/ropes courses? [In reply to]
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Hey Student, i think that the slight asymmetry of the jul isn't what a lot of people consider as a real addition of friction as opposed to the teeth of several other tubular devices on the market these days but good eye for the details.

Can't remember if i mentioned this above but i ran into another left coast ropes course director who is using Juls and she liked them. she said the keeper was more substantial than it looks.

I still think the jul is an outlier as far as general use belay devices go but it seems to have a small niche especially now the DMM steel option is gone.


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