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rrrADAM
Jan 2, 2003, 2:20 PM
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What a blast...
Karen (i.karen), Joseph (jeepmonkey), and myself met up with Mike (mreardon) and his friend Tom on Sunday for a day of bouldering. Thanx to Mike's motivation, and lack of telling me the grades prior to me trying, I got my first onsight of a V3 J-Tree Highball... Lovehandle I think. Did many more, including a V5, and even the clasic Highball False Up 20, but the first mentioned was my highlight. Karen did quite a bit also, including a VB Highbal... White Crack I think.
Whatched, and spotted, while Mike worked a V9? that may not have gone before, as the top was very dirty... He got to the top, and pealed due to the dirty slopers at the top.
That night, Karen and I went to The Thai Place, and ate. Guess who we saw seated next to us ??? Marie (alpinebunny), her 'son, and 'graniteboy'... Small world, as they didn't even know about the "RC.com mini-Event", but they were on their way out.
Met up with Art (artm), Jorge (jorgle), Scott (crazywacky), his brother, Dave (pirateclimber?), Zack (pbcowboy77), and all their friends from ODC (Outdoors Club?) at Art's Group Site in Indian Cove. Set up the slackline (Jorge was hooked), and broke out the Bop-It (Art was hooked, we even left the Bop-It with him as a late X-Mas present. ), and another user who refused to tell his User Name ( ).
Monday, climbed much in Indian Point don't have my book here at work, so I don't know the names, maybe Art can fill in the details, or I'll do it later.
That night, we went into 29 Palms to eat at The Rib Co, suggested by Scott. Good Call !!! Great food !!! Then much fun on the line and around the fire as we all Bopped-It together, we felt the love.
Tuesday, went into the park to climb the new route Blackbart .10d, that Yadi (yadi-yadi) had suggested I do. What a great route !!! It was too windy for most, so we headed back to IC for some more climbing as it's sheltered there. Talked to Jim Bridwell, even shared some of my "roll your owns" with him as we climbed. Loaned my rack and belayed Scott's brother on his fisrt "double digit" Trad lead on a .10 finger crack, even saved his life, but I'll let him or Scott fill in the details of that.
Came back to meet more of Zack's friends, 2 girls from OC, well one lives in Switzerland, and rang in the New Year just after Jay (jt512) and Hillary (climbsomething) showed up.
Karen and I had to leave around 1AM to run home, do a load of laundry, get a 1/2 hour of sleep, then catch an 8:30AM flight back to MD to our present job. Didn't wanna go, but had to. Funny thing on the way out... I was the only non-drinker, and I got pulled over for suspected DUI, as I was messing with the stereo in the renatl and swerved a bit. Karen and I were laughing when the cop came up, since we knew why he was pulling me over... He wished me a Happy New Year.
Many pictures to come.
P.S. Art's nickname has change from Trapeese Artimus to Jackie Twan's Evil Chin !!!
[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2003-01-02 06:30 ]
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i.karen
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Jan 2, 2003, 3:10 PM
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I had such a GreatTime and wish it could of lasted longer!!!
Adam you forgot about the Yummy Tamales that Jorgle brought with him.
And How we got the Ranger to hop on the slackline naked and drunk with a tamale in his hand!!
Yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!
I diffently wish I was still in J-Tree instead of sitting here at work!!!
The flight home was good until we got hit with lighting a couple of times and saw it was raining and cold!!!
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micronut
Jan 2, 2003, 3:19 PM
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rrradam, no highline walk?
too cold for me to be in J-Tree, hotsprings were calling. Looks like this week will be the time. High of 80 in L.A. by Sunday, sorry I.Karen.
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rrrADAM
Jan 2, 2003, 3:24 PM
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Nope...
They were setting it up Sunday night. I never made it over there, and wanted to hook up with Ammon to get a bit more beta, as I only walk 'em low to the ground.
I think Ammon showed up Tuesday, but I never saw him.
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artm
Jan 2, 2003, 5:28 PM
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Adam you told me the new climb was named Black Jack not Black Bart....so which is it?
I got stuck in traffic until 6 and made it home around 7. Corey took his whippers on Castrum and crazywhacky (scott) led his hardest and scariest climb (Noriega Does Panama 10a) New Years Day.
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i.karen
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Jan 2, 2003, 5:34 PM
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How did they do???
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ktwo
Jan 2, 2003, 5:44 PM
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Hey, i was in jtree for new years. First time I had been there, had to get used to a totally new style of climbing (like sticking your feet somewhere and hoping that they will stay). I can't wait to go back for the RC.com gathering!
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pbjosh
Jan 2, 2003, 6:17 PM
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Sounds like you all had fun, wish I'd been there
* dictionary mode *
As an aside, you certainly can onsight a boulder problem. Onsight is a flash w/ no beta. Makes no reference to whether or not you were wearing a harness.
* / dictionary mode *
josh
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antimatter
Jan 2, 2003, 6:25 PM
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Sheesh! I was right there! I was the guy with the Petzl Meteor helmet downclimbing the 5.2 to the Right of the Castrum.
I would have normally introduced myself, especially if I had known who you were, but we were in a hurry to get onto our next climb at Short Wall.
Maybe next time...
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mreardon
Jan 2, 2003, 7:31 PM
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It was definitely a blast climbing with you again Adam. Not sure if there's enough oxygen around when both of us are together! And of course spotting Karen is always a highlight (do all girls squeal like that when you grab 'em so tight?).
Like I told you Adam, bouldering is not about ratings, but about learning movements and getting into the groove. The fact that something is rated one way or another means nothing in bouldering. Course it can still bang the ego a bit - like floating a highball V6 on the first go with no effort, then trying a highball "V3" only to find it's a typical J-Tree sandbag halfway up - thanks for the repeated spots there, those puji sticks did not look like fun
Unfortunately I couldn't catch you the next day (nor send the FA on that specific project). Spent the night with the stomach flu and turned dinner into coyote bait (I hate throwing up). Next day I could barely pull any moves on "Gunsmoke" so we bailed early rather than pass the bug to you and the rest.
However, I did make up for it yesterday. You need to come back this way for I have a few new ones for you - just sent "The Font" at Stoney Point. Rated Hard and definitely a classic out there.
As for the unrepeated problem in Josh - yes it was dirty, but all new problems eveyrwhere are at first, that's why you clean them (duh) - and so far those in the know say it's a first, but I'll find out for sure on Saturday when I finally send the sucker (heading out there with Mike Waugh, and a handful of other J-Tree historians who will send and give me a rating on it as well!). So far the consensus is that it is definitely Hard (V9/V10) as far as ratings go.
Easy = VB-V3
Moderate = V4-V7
Hard = V8-V11
What the F@#k = V12+
Looking forward to the next trip with you two! Maybe I'll bring a rope and some gear next time - c'mon Karen, I have a nice little 10a for you.... It's casual - hehe.
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pbcowboy77
Jan 2, 2003, 8:37 PM
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I Dave...
It was a great weekend. I got to climb with some great friends and meet some new friends. New Years eve was so much fun other than the fact that I left my sick for the cyotes in the middle of the street on the way back to my camp site .
If the gathering in January is anything like this one it's gonna be so much fun. I'm just affraid some pictures are gonna come out of me passed out with a bottle of booze in my hand .
Climb safe and "Camper is too drunk to move"
-Zac
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crazywacky
Jan 3, 2003, 4:15 AM
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It was an AMAZING time out there!
I just got in this evening, after a 23 hour drive home...Corey (crazy_climber) and I were looking at beating 17 hours on the way back, but too much fun in 6 days got the better of us and we had to pull over just east of El Paso (3-ish in the AM) for a nap. We got a total of 3161.5 miles on this trip BTW.
This was without out a doubt the best time I've had in a long time.
Everyone out there from RC.com and the Outdoors club was great!
The New Years Eve party was wonderful. No better bunch of people or rangers (I Dave Rules!) could be asked for.
And I believe I may have some of those incriminating photos of passed out climbers
Corey and I took off the Day after Christmas for J-tree, and arrived after about 18 hours and 1300 miles to the south entrance of the park.
This was Corey's first taste of the Sweet stone of J-Tree, and I really think he got a good taste.
From leading his first serious trad routes, to pulling on some serious sport, he did a great job.
And there is nothing like a little penalty slack to light a fire in your pants...
As for saving his life, I do believe Adam was the man...
Corey wanted to lead the Castrum, a nice .10a finger crack on the Feudal Wall in Indian cove.
Adam was nice enough to lead it first, let Corey use his rack and rope, and even leave in a bomber #6 stopper "just in case"
From what I've heard, he started out placing 2 stoppers lower in the crack, clipped into Adam's piece, and fell just above that piece... no problem, it held and he continued.
He got a few feet above the stopper, placed and cam in a flaring section of the crack, continued up to a possible nut placement, and fell... No problem, the cam held. But the two lowest pieces popped/zippered.
Karen suggested he replace them, but he thought he would be fine without them. It was only a .10a after all.
Corey headed back up again, determined to place that nut and finish the climb.
Fate had different plans.
As he was preparing to place the nut again, his hand "greased" out of the crack.
He fell onto the cam, it held for the tiniest of a fraction of a second (according to him anyway), and popped. Allowing him to fall again onto the #6 Stopper placed by Adam.
Which fortunately held.
As his fall came to an end, the failed cam spiraling towards him down the rope, he reached out, snatched it up, and more or less stated his wishes to be let down and that he was done with that climb. I am unsure of his exact words.
I'll get him on to verify any miss-representations I may have made...as I was busy at that time on my own much easier route.
Ill get photos up tomorrow..
[ This Message was edited by: crazywacky on 2003-01-02 20:21 ]
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crack_head
Jan 3, 2003, 4:28 AM
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jorgle
Jan 3, 2003, 4:37 AM
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Good Times, Great people. OH YES!!! I will get that slackline!
Oh, Corey....you should be called king whipper.
Happy New Year ALL.
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pbcowboy77
Jan 3, 2003, 4:41 AM
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Did I mention that I'm never going to drink again after that... well not until the gathering this month (but not that much )
Climb safe and camper is too drunk to move
-Zac
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nikegirl
Jan 3, 2003, 4:51 AM
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Where is my chalk bag!!!
crazywacky, got me all palm(y)
glad all ended well. whew!!!
* Can't wait til January's gathering
~T
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rrrADAM
Jan 3, 2003, 12:57 PM
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Ooops, my bad... Blackjack.
And Scott... That just about sums up Corey's "ride" on the .10a.
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climbsomething
Jan 3, 2003, 8:11 PM
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I saw the Bop-It. Whoa!! Like, I feel like I've arrived
Climbed at Pixie Rock in Indian Cove on New Year's Day. The crag is pretty popular so we ended up on one of the only routes that wasn't taken... a short OFFWIDTH! (Tom's Solo, 5.7) that left my ankle oozing maroon blood Gee, why wasn't anybody else queing up for that route?! But some less painful routes opened up eventually and I had a fun time on those.
Hopefully I'll be back for the gathering. Keep me away from the schnapps! (I am such a GURLY drunk )
~Hillary
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pbcowboy77
Jan 3, 2003, 10:49 PM
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WOW, climbing on New Years day... that was painfull. I started on a 5.6 that I had done three days before and it felt like a 5.10c. I think I darnk too much. But I'm not talking volume, I mean I had to many types of drinks. Let's see here:
9-New Castle
3-Miller Lite
1-Glass of Red Wine
3-Glasses of Champagne (sp?)
3-Shots of Taquilla
2-Shots of whatever Dave Made
I'm suprised I could rember that or even that I'm alive.
Climb Safe and Camperis too drunk to move
-Zac
Oh ya and I'll be your organizer for the J-Tree gathering in January...is that good or bad?
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kronik
Jan 3, 2003, 11:21 PM
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hey mreardon -
just curious where this hard problem might be?
r u going to be climbing stones with Dmeat this wknd in jtree?
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pirateclimber
Jan 4, 2003, 1:17 AM
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Hey, wow what a great group. My first New Years Eve in the Tree and first time really hanging out with the RC.com crowd. Definitely feel like I have made some new friends. I think all the previous accounts sum it up... Slack line is fun, you can blame the wobbling on the cord instead of the drinks. Jenn (ClimberJenn), I want a copy of the pic of me on the line! Bop it is wicked addictive, we could hear Art (ArtM) aka “Jackie Twan Evil Chin” playing it while stuck in an accident on the way home. I think I finally digested the last of the Rib Co. Mmm, cow! And did anyone else enjoy flogging Corey (Crazy_Climber) on all those routes we put him on. He did an awesome job out there. Jorge (Jorgle) was definitely looking out when he brought those tamales, the “new” power bar.
As far as New Years Eve goes, that was fun... that’s all I’ll say except Zac, brutha’ you had more than two of whatever I was making! See ya at the gathering. Oh, and who the hell let me drive??? FYI my total was:
20 beers
A good portion of the Capt Morgan
2 shots of Casadores
Equivalent of 1 bottle of Champagne gleaned from several
And I led Noriega Does Panama and got an onsight (before the party) so at least I can say I did something.
All right, enough of the blabbing... What are we gonna do tomorrow Brain? Same thing we do every weekend... climb in Joshua Tree. Oh and did everyone get a taste of the $30 bottle of Champagne? OK, good! I just wanted to make sure.
[ This Message was edited by: pirateclimber on 2003-01-03 17:24 ]
[ This Message was edited by: pirateclimber on 2003-01-03 17:26 ]
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jorgle
Jan 4, 2003, 1:59 AM
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So how much did that bottle cost???
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addiroids
Jan 4, 2003, 2:05 AM
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Well I'm really sorry I couldn't make it, it sounded like a great time. I had the flu monday and tuesday, then helped my boss (climber too) roof his garage on New Year's Day since I took off work on Tuesday. But hopefully all the same players will be there for the gathering. Hillary, you had better be there. It's finally time for us to climb together!!
Drink up all,
Cali Dirtbag
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climbsomething
Jan 4, 2003, 2:54 AM
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Oh my GOD Zac!! I'm intoxic-macated just READING that list! How did you avoid alcohol poisoning?
Duuuuuuuuuuuude!! Camper should STILL be too drunk to move!
Adds, I'll prolly be there
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pancaketom
Jan 4, 2003, 3:29 AM
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I was at the cove over New Years too, if I hadn't been driving across the country I could have checked up and seen that everyone was going to be there. I was in group site 11, and am sure I saw at least some of you there, but of course didn't know it. Were you the guys singing "La Bamba" at 2 am???
sure was nice to touch the magical Josh Rock again, especially after nearly 2 months without any climbing.
I'd like to make the January gathering, but I have a cat sitting gig in Flagstaff...
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