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Sticking a Dyno
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Learner


Jun 2, 2011, 1:09 AM
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Sticking a Dyno
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At the moment that you stick a dyno, do you pull up a little with your arms (as in a pull-up), allowing a slight 'cushion' for when your weight comes back down?

In other words, do you contract your 'pull-up muscles' in such a way that your ability to stick the dyno does not depend solely on the ability of your fingers to catch your body weight? Rather, your biceps and lats may reduce strain from your fingers at the moment that you attempt to stick it by contracting slightly, so that when your bodyweight comes back down, it doesn't hit your fingers only and it doesn't hit all at once. Perhaps you do this instinctively and subconsciously.

I ask this because I was having problems sticking dynos recently, and it appears that the problem may have been that when I was catching the hold(s), I was not pulling up with my arms at the moment of the catch. I was getting my hands around the hold(s), but I often wouldn't be able to hang on. Today I tried acting, only for the split moment at which I catch the hold, as if I were going to do a pull-up from that hold and this actually seemed to help my fingers hang on.

With this technique, you could even catch the hold at full extension with your arms, but only for the split moment that you grab the hold, you act as if you're going to do a pull-up from the hold you're catching. This provides a cushion when you catch it, which is your contracted muscles, making it much easier to stick the hold than if you were to have simply grabbed the hold then tried to catch it solely with finger strength. Again, you only do this (the 'pretend pull-up muscle contraction') the moment that you catch the hold. In my experience, this may make it easier to stick.

So, my question is, is this the technique you use to stick dynos? If so, please elaborate if you'd like. If not, please share your own technique for sticking dynos.

(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 2, 2011, 1:13 AM)


panacea82


Jun 2, 2011, 1:41 AM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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hold on


sungam


Jun 2, 2011, 4:16 AM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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If there is slack in you arm when you catch it, you are quite simply jumping too high! You need to try to grab the hold at the deadpoint, the point at which you are moving neither up nor down, with as little slack in your arm as possible (obviously if there is some, you gotta tense to eliminate it).

As you hit the hold, pull your feet towards the wall and if at all possible, try to slap your feet/foot onto a hold. You should be looking down to try to do this as soon as your hand touches the top hold. Try to plan what footholds you are going to aim for before you jump, though. If there are no footholds, then just pull your feet up towards the wall, keeping your center of balance under/below the hold, instead of swinging out wildly behind it.

If you are going to practice dynos, make sure you practice with both hands. You will likely have a favored lead hand that you can catch with better, but some problems/routes don't really offer you the choice.


lena_chita
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Jun 2, 2011, 6:39 AM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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I'm guessing that when you "tightened the muscles as if you were going to do a pull-up", you also tightened other muscles in the body, and that maybe helped you control the swing and stay on the hold.

Regardless, if you find that something helps you stick a dyno -- then do it.


rtwilli4


Jun 2, 2011, 6:44 AM
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Re: [sungam] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
If there is slack in you arm when you catch it, you are quite simply jumping too high! You need to try to grab the hold at the deadpoint, the point at which you are moving neither up nor down, with as little slack in your arm as possible (obviously if there is some, you gotta tense to eliminate it).

As you hit the hold, pull your feet towards the wall and if at all possible, try to slap your feet/foot onto a hold. You should be looking down to try to do this as soon as your hand touches the top hold. Try to plan what footholds you are going to aim for before you jump, though. If there are no footholds, then just pull your feet up towards the wall, keeping your center of balance under/below the hold, instead of swinging out wildly behind it.

If you are going to practice dynos, make sure you practice with both hands. You will likely have a favored lead hand that you can catch with better, but some problems/routes don't really offer you the choice.

+1


Bag11s


Jun 2, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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Learner- I don't know how long you've been at it, but that is an astute observation. Hitting the targeted hold in a strong and focused manner and with slight flex- no matter how far it is- is key to holding on it. Softness in your hit will not let you hold it.


Learner


Jun 2, 2011, 4:58 PM
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Re: [sungam] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
If there is slack in you arm when you catch it, you are quite simply jumping too high! You need to try to grab the hold at the deadpoint, the point at which you are moving neither up nor down, with as little slack in your arm as possible (obviously if there is some, you gotta tense to eliminate it).

As you hit the hold, pull your feet towards the wall and if at all possible, try to slap your feet/foot onto a hold. You should be looking down to try to do this as soon as your hand touches the top hold. Try to plan what footholds you are going to aim for before you jump, though. If there are no footholds, then just pull your feet up towards the wall, keeping your center of balance under/below the hold, instead of swinging out wildly behind it.

If you are going to practice dynos, make sure you practice with both hands. You will likely have a favored lead hand that you can catch with better, but some problems/routes don't really offer you the choice.

There does not have to be slack in your arm to use this technique. You could get your hand(s) around the hold with your arms at full extension (no slack), but the moment your hands touch you pretend, for a split second, that you're going to do a pull-up at the grab. So, you flex your muscles the moment you touch the hold, not necessarily before it. Thanks for the other tips you've provided on what to do with your lower body, etc... I wasn't thinking about some of them. For example, I wasn't thinking about placing my feet on holds, just catching the handhold.


Learner


Jun 2, 2011, 5:00 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
I'm guessing that when you "tightened the muscles as if you were going to do a pull-up", you also tightened other muscles in the body, and that maybe helped you control the swing and stay on the hold.

Regardless, if you find that something helps you stick a dyno -- then do it.

That's a good point. The entire body is probably flexing automatically, providing stability and control for the entire structure. In fact, if I physically mimic the action of sticking a dyno right now, I can feel my entire core flex (abs, obliques, lower back, serratus, etc...). I can certainly understand how this would contribute to control at the moment of the grab.


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 2, 2011, 5:14 PM)


Learner


Jun 2, 2011, 5:04 PM
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Re: [Bag11s] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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Bag11s wrote:
Learner- I don't know how long you've been at it, but that is an astute observation. Hitting the targeted hold in a strong and focused manner and with slight flex- no matter how far it is- is key to holding on it. Softness in your hit will not let you hold it.

Thank you! For me it was the only solution. That is, once I did this, I could dyno. Before, I basically couldn't. I suspect there may be others out there like me or perhaps some more experienced climbers neglect this upper body action occasionally, which could prevent one from sticking certain holds. I like how you said that, "Hitting the targeted hold in a strong and focused manner and with slight flex...." That's smoother than the way I said it.


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 2, 2011, 5:15 PM)


flesh


Jun 2, 2011, 11:04 PM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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Learner wrote:
At the moment that you stick a dyno, do you pull up a little with your arms (as in a pull-up), allowing a slight 'cushion' for when your weight comes back down?

In other words, do you contract your 'pull-up muscles' in such a way that your ability to stick the dyno does not depend solely on the ability of your fingers to catch your body weight? Rather, your biceps and lats may reduce strain from your fingers at the moment that you attempt to stick it by contracting slightly, so that when your bodyweight comes back down, it doesn't hit your fingers only and it doesn't hit all at once. Perhaps you do this instinctively and subconsciously.

I ask this because I was having problems sticking dynos recently, and it appears that the problem may have been that when I was catching the hold(s), I was not pulling up with my arms at the moment of the catch. I was getting my hands around the hold(s), but I often wouldn't be able to hang on. Today I tried acting, only for the split moment at which I catch the hold, as if I were going to do a pull-up from that hold and this actually seemed to help my fingers hang on.

With this technique, you could even catch the hold at full extension with your arms, but only for the split moment that you grab the hold, you act as if you're going to do a pull-up from the hold you're catching. This provides a cushion when you catch it, which is your contracted muscles, making it much easier to stick the hold than if you were to have simply grabbed the hold then tried to catch it solely with finger strength. Again, you only do this (the 'pretend pull-up muscle contraction') the moment that you catch the hold. In my experience, this may make it easier to stick.

So, my question is, is this the technique you use to stick dynos? If so, please elaborate if you'd like. If not, please share your own technique for sticking dynos.

Whats happening when you grab the hold and do your pretend pull up is that two things. One, your putting more weight on the hold your dyno to by pulling on it immediately, the more weight on a hold, the more friction, the easier to hold. Two, as you do your one arm type pull up on the hold you dyno to you are slowing your swing down. The less you swing, the better the hold is that your hanging on. Just like when you pull straight down on a sloper it's better than when pull straight out. Similiarly, using a drop knee allows you to keep your hips closer to the wall and therefore pull more down on the hold than out.

When dynoing to a particularly slopey hold, I'll allow my body from the waist down to swing backwards and absorb the swing while keeping my body from the waist up perfectly still, all the while pulling up on the sloper I've dynoed to to give me more friction by adding weight to it. This way my legs can swing and I can still maintain pulling as straight down on the hold as possible on the hold/sloper ive dynoed to.

Cheers, never really thought about what I'm doing till now. LOL


Bag11s


Jun 3, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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There is something else about catching full tosses on real steepness from a position of feet on to full feet off, or in campusing. All of your focus in that case has to be on the catch. On many of these moves you'll need to allow all else to relax, allowing the swing's inertia to carry your body out, then back- without compromising your grip on the hold by going all spastic. Conversely, there are other dynamic throws where the catch is improved if you flex your entire body upon making the catch, usually made possible by having your other hand remain on its hold or otherwise touching the wall- situations vary, but focusing on the actual catch stays the same. There is an effort of will in it.


jt512


Jun 3, 2011, 6:48 PM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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Learner wrote:
At the moment that you stick a dyno, do you pull up a little with your arms (as in a pull-up), allowing a slight 'cushion' for when your weight comes back down?

In other words, do you contract your 'pull-up muscles' in such a way that your ability to stick the dyno does not depend solely on the ability of your fingers to catch your body weight? Rather, your biceps and lats may reduce strain from your fingers at the moment that you attempt to stick it by contracting slightly, so that when your bodyweight comes back down, it doesn't hit your fingers only and it doesn't hit all at once. Perhaps you do this instinctively and subconsciously.

Sungam made this point, but you didn't show any signs of catching it. If you're catching the hold on the way back down, then you overshot the hold. You want to catch the hold at the "deadpoint," the apex of your arc, where you are momentarily weightless.

Jay


Learner


Jun 4, 2011, 9:07 PM
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Re: [jt512] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Sungam made this point, but you didn't show any signs of catching it. If you're catching the hold on the way back down, then you overshot the hold. You want to catch the hold at the "deadpoint," the apex of your arc, where you are momentarily weightless.

Jay

Apparently you didn't "catch" my reply to Sungam's fine post:

"There does not have to be slack in your arm to use this technique. You could get your hand(s) around the hold with your arms at full extension (no slack), but the moment your hands touch you pretend, for a split second, that you're going to do a pull-up at the grab. So, you flex your muscles the moment you touch the hold, not necessarily before it. Thanks for the other tips you've provided on what to do with your lower body, etc... I wasn't thinking about some of them. For example, I wasn't thinking about placing my feet on holds, just catching the handhold."

You do not have to be on your way back down to pull up the moment you grab it.

Regardless, thank you for reinforcing one of the many productive points that Sungam made in his post. That one is important enough that I suppose it is productive to emphasize it once again. I appreciate it.

(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 4, 2011, 9:11 PM)


jt512


Jun 4, 2011, 9:12 PM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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Learner wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Sungam made this point, but you didn't show any signs of catching it. If you're catching the hold on the way back down, then you overshot the hold. You want to catch the hold at the "deadpoint," the apex of your arc, where you are momentarily weightless.

Jay

Apparently you didn't "catch" my reply to Sungam's fine post:

"There does not have to be slack in your arm to use this technique. You could get your hand(s) around the hold with your arms at full extension (no slack), but the moment your hands touch you pretend, for a split second, that you're going to do a pull-up at the grab. So, you flex your muscles the moment you touch the hold, not necessarily before it. Thanks for the other tips you've provided on what to do with your lower body, etc... I wasn't thinking about some of them. For example, I wasn't thinking about placing my feet on holds, just catching the handhold."

Yes, I did "catch" your reply, which is precisely why I posted what I did.


Learner


Jun 4, 2011, 9:29 PM
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Re: [jt512] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Learner wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Sungam made this point, but you didn't show any signs of catching it. If you're catching the hold on the way back down, then you overshot the hold. You want to catch the hold at the "deadpoint," the apex of your arc, where you are momentarily weightless.

Jay

Apparently you didn't "catch" my reply to Sungam's fine post:

"There does not have to be slack in your arm to use this technique. You could get your hand(s) around the hold with your arms at full extension (no slack), but the moment your hands touch you pretend, for a split second, that you're going to do a pull-up at the grab. So, you flex your muscles the moment you touch the hold, not necessarily before it. Thanks for the other tips you've provided on what to do with your lower body, etc... I wasn't thinking about some of them. For example, I wasn't thinking about placing my feet on holds, just catching the handhold."

Yes, I did "catch" your reply, which is precisely why I posted what I did.

Then perhaps next time you will quote "precisely" the post you are replying to? Thanks.


jt512


Jun 4, 2011, 9:39 PM
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Re: [Learner] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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Learner wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Learner wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Sungam made this point, but you didn't show any signs of catching it. If you're catching the hold on the way back down, then you overshot the hold. You want to catch the hold at the "deadpoint," the apex of your arc, where you are momentarily weightless.

Jay

Apparently you didn't "catch" my reply to Sungam's fine post:

"There does not have to be slack in your arm to use this technique. You could get your hand(s) around the hold with your arms at full extension (no slack), but the moment your hands touch you pretend, for a split second, that you're going to do a pull-up at the grab. So, you flex your muscles the moment you touch the hold, not necessarily before it. Thanks for the other tips you've provided on what to do with your lower body, etc... I wasn't thinking about some of them. For example, I wasn't thinking about placing my feet on holds, just catching the handhold."

Yes, I did "catch" your reply, which is precisely why I posted what I did.

Then perhaps next time you will quote "precisely" the post you are replying to? Thanks.

Huh?


jomagam


Jun 4, 2011, 11:33 PM
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Re: [sungam] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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In reply to:
If there is slack in you arm when you catch it, you are quite simply jumping too high! You need to try to grab the hold at the deadpoint, the point at which you are moving neither up nor down, with as little slack in your arm as possible (obviously if there is some, you gotta tense to eliminate it).

Having slack in your arms when you stick the dyno and doing so at the deadpoint are not mutually exclusive, and both are desired. Trying to grab the hold with a totally extended body and muscles will allow you to apply much less force to the rock than if you have some slack in your muscle fibers. Have you ever made a move statically, but were so extended in your new position that you just couldn't do anything afterwards ? Same effect.


ceebo


Jun 5, 2011, 6:28 AM
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Re: [jomagam] Sticking a Dyno [In reply to]
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Depends allot on the direction of the hold, distance and steepness of the wall to determine the most efficient technique.

With any dyno where the legs are going to swing far out behind it is better to hit such a hold (if the reach is possible) with arms bending in with the upward momentum. This allows you to engage the large upper body muscles to force those hips to stay under resulting in the legs following suite. The purpose of this is to keep a similar positive finger angle on the contact hold that you would get from it if it were to be reached statically.

If the gap is too big and you can only make it straight armed you can still have some control with but mainly only in the legs which is not enough to reduce significant outward swing. At this point the finger position changes from what resembles a half crimp in the arms bent scenario to a open hand type grip in this scenario. With the peak force as the body reaches the end of the swing it puts allot on a finger position people may not be as strong as over half crimp or bar style grips.

Dynos that are out left or right i find are most efficient to hit with arm/s straight. Most of the swing will be going side to side as opposed to directly front to back so it does not effect the positivity of the hold as much.

Also, over shooting is sometimes helpful. If it is a steep overhang you really want to actually do that. Your arms can then go 90 degree with the body (like a mummy ;p) and you can engage some stability from in the core from that position to reduce swing as the legs start to come down and angle of arms goes to normal. I'm sorry but its rather too technical to explain. But if you hit such a hold with arms relatively straight up above your head.. you have little control over stability muscles and are certain to have a significant swing.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 5, 2011, 6:51 AM)


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