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Fall in Eldorado Canyon
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plantmandan


May 31, 2011, 2:24 PM
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Fall in Eldorado Canyon
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www.denverpost.com/breakingnews/ci_18162505

According to the belayer (there is a post on mp with more detailed information), the climber tied his figure 8 knot incorrectly.


kovacs69


May 31, 2011, 3:32 PM
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Re: [plantmandan] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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plantmandan wrote:
http://www.denverpost.com/...kingnews/ci_18162505

According to the belayer (there is a post on mp with more detailed information), the climber tied his figure 8 knot incorrectly.

Clicky!


sungam


May 31, 2011, 4:44 PM
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Re: [plantmandan] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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Ugh, shitty. Sounds like another accident easily avoided by buddy checks.


Partner robdotcalm


Jun 3, 2011, 1:31 PM
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Re: [sungam] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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http://www.mountainproject.com/...nyon-52811/107152997

Here’s a follow up on the accident. In the refenced thread, comments were made about the Lynn Hill accident. Made me think that this wonderful climber may be remembered as much for not tying-in properly as for freeing the Nose. Seems most threads about easily avoidable climbing accidents mention Lynn. History often has a funny way of remembering someone. C’est la Vie is a 2-pitch 11b climb, though must climbers only ascend the 9+ first pitch. The climber is extremely lucking as the landing is jumbled boulders. Here's the quote from the link.

"I was belaying Colin.

Accident was not caused by an anchor failure. Denver Post got the story right.

Despite being an experienced and safe climber, Colin did not properly tie in to his harness, rope untied and he fell from roughly the first bolt on Cest la Vie.

He suffered a fractured vertebrae, but in the long run should make a full recovery. All in all a very fortunate outcome to the situation. Big thanks to Rocky Mountain Rescue, Park Rangers, and everyone else that helped get Colin safely down and to the hospital.

Check you knots!!! "
Rob.calm


(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Jun 4, 2011, 9:38 AM)


shockabuku


Jun 3, 2011, 8:22 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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You may want to change your << and >> to real quotes. Until I followed the link, I thought you were saying you were the belayer because I didn't realize what those symbols represented.


sungam


Jun 4, 2011, 2:52 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
You may want to change your << and >> to real quotes. Until I followed the link, I thought you were saying you were the belayer because I didn't realize what those symbols represented.
Yeah, took me a minute as well. I was typing a reply asking for more details when I noticed the closing brackets.


Partner robdotcalm


Jun 4, 2011, 9:40 AM
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Re: [shockabuku] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
You may want to change your << and >> to real quotes. Until I followed the link, I thought you were saying you were the belayer because I didn't realize what those symbols represented.

OK. Edited to replace the angle brackets with quotes and the statement that it is a quote.

r.c


jt512


Jun 4, 2011, 12:48 PM
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Re: [robdotcalm] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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robdotcalm wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
You may want to change your << and >> to real quotes. Until I followed the link, I thought you were saying you were the belayer because I didn't realize what those symbols represented.

OK. Edited to replace the angle brackets with quotes and the statement that it is a quote.

r.c

For long quotes you might consider using the [indent][/indent] tags:
Donec hendrerit consectetur pretium. Sed vitae ligula et mi consequat blandit. Vestibulum ante ipsum primis in faucibus orci luctus et ultrices posuere cubilia Curae; In urna nunc, vehicula non tincidunt vitae, laoreet quis ipsum. Morbi imperdiet rhoncus tortor, id fermentum dui malesuada quis.

Curabitur quis enim sit amet elit ornare dapibus ut in lacus. Nunc quis nisl in felis condimentum gravida vel vel augue. Duis a diam ligula. In aliquam varius metus, in lobortis justo hendrerit et. Pellentesque sed magna quam, a adipiscing orci.
Jay


curt


Jun 4, 2011, 10:13 PM
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Re: [sungam] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Ugh, shitty. Sounds like another accident easily avoided by buddy checks.

Yes, or by actually tying the knot correctly in the first place.

Curt


EastCoastDave


Jun 7, 2011, 5:56 PM
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Re: [plantmandan] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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Sometimes you should deliberately tie a bad knot or only through one loop and see if your buddy catches the mistake.

You must always always always check and if you realized you forgot to check after a your partner heads up the wall then ask him to come down (if safe) so you can check.

There's no excuse for this kind of stuff.


Partner angry


Jun 7, 2011, 6:08 PM
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Re: [jt512] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
robdotcalm wrote:
shockabuku wrote:
You may want to change your << and >> to real quotes. Until I followed the link, I thought you were saying you were the belayer because I didn't realize what those symbols represented.

OK. Edited to replace the angle brackets with quotes and the statement that it is a quote.

r.c

For long quotes you might consider using the [indent][/indent] tags:
Donec hendrerit consectetur pretium. Sed vitae ligula et mi consequat blandit. Vestibulum ante ipsum primis in faucibus orci luctus et ultrices posuere cubilia Curae; In urna nunc, vehicula non tincidunt vitae, laoreet quis ipsum. Morbi imperdiet rhoncus tortor, id fermentum dui malesuada quis.

Curabitur quis enim sit amet elit ornare dapibus ut in lacus. Nunc quis nisl in felis condimentum gravida vel vel augue. Duis a diam ligula. In aliquam varius metus, in lobortis justo hendrerit et. Pellentesque sed magna quam, a adipiscing orci.
Jay

Until the price of hendrerit consectetur. But for me, my life ligula consequat down smoothly;. Before the entrance itself the first place in the jaws of Hell, Grief and avenging Cares have made their bed; In the pot now, conveyance and does not tincidunt of life, aiding visually itself. Disease imperdiet rhoncus torturer, that any man leaven DUI malesuada.

For who can be healed: it is love elit Welcome to adorn as into the pit. Now any one nil to the Felis Product Type: LCD or fireball. We in diameter from the ligula. In the School Board from fear; into Lobortis and just hendrerit. Beating but the great, which, from the Customer orcs.


jt512


Jun 7, 2011, 6:15 PM
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Re: [EastCoastDave] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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EastCoastDave wrote:
Sometimes you should deliberately tie a bad knot or only through one loop and see if your buddy catches the mistake.

Great way to build up a trusting relationship with your climbing partner. :roll:

You should never deliberately tie a bad knot for the same reason you should never allow yourself to be interrupted while tying a good one. As A. A. Milne wrote, "Did you ever stop to think, and forget to start again?" Sure would suck if your little scheme to trap your partner backfired, wouldn't it?

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 7, 2011, 6:16 PM)


EastCoastDave


Jun 7, 2011, 7:48 PM
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Re: [jt512] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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Your right to call me out on that. Here is typically what happens to me....


1- I'm engaged in conversation with partner as I'm tying in
2- I notice as we converse my knot is incorrect
3- they will say "ready to climb"
4- I will say "no"
5- They will ask "why?"
6- I will say "look at my knot"



I completely agree that deliberately misleading your partner is a bad idea but you should always check yourself a second time before they check you the first time. Unfortunately in the gym that doesn't happen enough.


patto


Jun 8, 2011, 3:18 AM
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Re: [EastCoastDave] Fall in Eldorado Canyon [In reply to]
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I think buddy checks are great and I won't discourage them. But testing your buddy on a buddy check? That just seems absurd. I rely on my own paranoid checks. And I certainly don't care if my buddy hasn't checked me because I have already checked myself 10 times.

Afterall who is going to do my buddy check for my belay on the top of the third pitch with 4 more to go? Who is going to make sure I rethread and tie in properly when Jay orders me to lower rather than rap?


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