|
Kartessa
Apr 17, 2011, 5:30 AM
Post #1 of 21
(18237 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
Has anyone tried the new Evolv Shamans?
I was told they're similar to the sportiva solutions in fit but was wondering how they felt.
|
|
|
|
|
telos
Apr 18, 2011, 12:04 AM
Post #2 of 21
(18120 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2011
Posts: 5
|
I don't think they're out yet. Does anyone know when they're expected to be released?
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Apr 18, 2011, 12:24 AM
Post #3 of 21
(18113 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
Not sure... there are some people here who can get their grubby paws on goodies before the rest of us so I was just checkin.
I noticed they're lined with leather so I'm also wondering if that will help with the evolv stink factor.
|
|
|
|
|
phoenixfire
Apr 18, 2011, 12:39 AM
Post #4 of 21
(18105 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2006
Posts: 40
|
They're available on mgear.com now...I'm curious if they're anything like the Optimus Primes.
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Apr 18, 2011, 12:56 AM
Post #5 of 21
(18090 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
MEC is selling them up here in Canada, well they're on the website, but theyre not ready to ship just yet...
|
|
|
|
|
gosharks
Apr 20, 2011, 11:09 PM
Post #6 of 21
(17867 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 7, 2004
Posts: 268
|
phoenixfire wrote: They're available on mgear.com now...I'm curious if they're anything like the Optimus Primes.
|
|
|
|
|
gamehendge
Apr 21, 2011, 2:07 AM
Post #7 of 21
(17799 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 2, 2004
Posts: 398
|
If your in the Bishop area, they are available @ Wilson's. They are a similar fit to the Talons and Predators but slightly stiffer all around even though they have the same midsole thickness. They have a plastic piece (love bump) under the dead space of your toes (similar to Testarossas) to help you pull. They also felt a 1/2 size smaller but that could just be my swollen feet after a day of climbing and the fact that they are new. Nice quality finish.
|
|
|
|
|
ENARE
Apr 21, 2011, 4:25 PM
Post #8 of 21
(17678 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2011
Posts: 275
|
"Designed by Sharma for high-level climbing, the Evolv Shaman is the shoe that will conquer your projects, drive you to harder routes and keep you hungry for new action. The down camber and downturned, asymmetrical toe profile provide incredible edging power where other shoes noodle."
Quote from MGear - Shoes on sale now! I thought it was going to take longer!
http://www.mountaingear.com/...e/MG/item/225853/N/0
|
|
|
|
|
idbstyler
Apr 28, 2011, 11:14 PM
Post #10 of 21
(17353 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 17, 2010
Posts: 11
|
I live by the Evolve Warehouse and went over on my lunch and tried on a pair. They are extremely comfortable for how aggressive they are.
|
|
|
|
|
Khoi
Apr 30, 2011, 3:50 AM
Post #11 of 21
(17268 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 11, 2008
Posts: 294
|
Kartessa wrote: MEC is selling them up here in Canada, well they're on the website, but theyre not ready to ship just yet...
|
|
|
|
|
Learner
Jun 6, 2011, 1:17 AM
Post #12 of 21
(16620 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187
|
All right, it's been another month now so there's got to be some climbers here that have had a little experience with these shoes. I'm just bumping this thread hoping you will please give your thoughts on them.
To any of you that have either tried the Evolv Shaman's out or if you own them yourself, what are your impressions of them?
(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 6, 2011, 1:23 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
taydude
Jun 6, 2011, 2:48 AM
Post #13 of 21
(16586 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2006
Posts: 531
|
I've got a pair on the way. I'll let ya know how they are.
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Jun 6, 2011, 3:20 AM
Post #14 of 21
(16571 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
If youve got super-high-volume heels with wide toes and crave ballerina-style binding with an agressive downturn, then go for them.
Might be worth it for the hardcore gym types and boulderers out there looking to make a fashion statement.
I'm sticking with my miuras though.
|
|
|
|
|
Learner
Jun 6, 2011, 3:37 AM
Post #15 of 21
(16564 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187
|
Kartessa wrote: If youve got super-high-volume heels with wide toes and crave ballerina-style binding with an agressive downturn, then go for them.
So you think that these shoes allow more room in the toe box than most climbing shoes?
(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 6, 2011, 3:38 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
Kartessa
Jun 6, 2011, 4:02 AM
Post #16 of 21
(16554 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 18, 2008
Posts: 7362
|
I do think they have the trademark evolv wide toebox, but with their "love bump" it doesn't necessarily have more room.
|
|
|
|
|
Qozux
Dec 3, 2011, 6:10 AM
Post #17 of 21
(14518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2011
Posts: 33
|
Got em and tried them on! I got a great deal on them, but it was online and unfortunately Monterey has about jack for climbing store options, so I went for it.
I wear anywhere between a 12.5-14 street shoe, depending on the individual model. So sizing climbing shoes is always an adventure for me.
I got Anasazi Moccasyms in 11 and they hurt like hell for a couple weeks until they stretched. I got Anasazi Verdes in 11.5 and though I haven't had a chance to climb in them, they feel perfect; tight, maybe a little too tight, but I read they form and stretch just a smidgen, so I'm happy there.
I bought the Shamans in 12 because I had read that they needed to be sized a little bigger than most other shoes. Well apparently I underestimated! They fit wonderfully while I'm sitting, and I can feel every unique feature of the shoe, but as soon as I stand up it's horrible. They are just too damn small in that size. So now I will return them at my cost and try to get 12.5 because the shoe really does seem fantastic.
My advice is to get these shoes if they have what you are looking for, but have the guts to bump them up just a half size over what you are thinking, because you won't be happy if you don't.
Oh, and I fit a 12 nicely in Defy's and very snugly in the Pontas. Also had a pair of 11.5 Red Chili Spirits. Just in case anyone was trying to figure out sizing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Qozux
Dec 6, 2011, 5:48 AM
Post #19 of 21
(14360 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 19, 2011
Posts: 33
|
Those are pretty sick looking. Crazy expensive though. I mainly posted because the reviews on them seem to be few and far between.
|
|
|
|
|
tesposito
Dec 9, 2011, 7:05 PM
Post #20 of 21
(14153 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 9, 2011
Posts: 3
|
I've been sport climbing in them for a few weeks now, and they are absolutely amazing. I highly recommend them. These replaced a pair of Miura VS as my performance shoe. (TC Pros for MP/trad and 5.10 Copperheads for cracks)
Sizing: I bought them in my street size (US12, 46) and they are snug without being painful as long as take them off every few climbs. Any smaller would be painful. I have low volume feet and these are my first Evolvs so I can't comment on the typical fit, but I have them strapped down less rightly than on my old Miura VS (ie, the Miuras were wider). The Miuras were size 44.5 and super painful lengthwise but not narrow enough midfoot.
Fit: The Shamans do have some space in the sides of the heel but still hook well
Performance: These toe-in extremely well due. It's not so much an aggressive downturn of the entire sole, but rather the talon-like downturn of the toes. They are holding their shape very well, probably due to the plastic insert in the toebox. This toe downturm also gives a lot more surface contact when highstepping.
More confidence inspiring on small vertical/overhung edges than the Miuras, although but I don't think I'd want to do slab in them. The rubber feels a bit softer so they'll probably need a resoling sooner than I would like, but it's like buying racing tires for a car- trading longevity for performance. It's not the Ecotrax rubber I've read complaints about.
|
|
|
|
|
pyrosis
Dec 11, 2011, 4:20 AM
Post #21 of 21
(14041 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 150
|
Kartessa wrote: I'm sticking with my miuras though.
From your review, it sounds like the Shaman didn't fit your foot very well. They fit my foot perfectly so my perception is very different from yours.
The Shaman are not at all like Miura lace ups. They are similar to Miura VS but more aggressive. They are similar to the Solution but with better closure around the foot, better heel hook ability, and a much better edge. I have found the Shaman to outperform both the Miura VS and the Solution on all rock types. They work just as well if not better than the Solution on radically overhanging rock, but they edge WAY better on small holds, better even than the Miura VS. These have become my favorite shoe for bouldering, though I will opt for Miura lace ups or even TC pro if climbing on super techy or slabby rock.. But, since fit to your foot is the most important aspect of shoe selection, YMMV.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
