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ceebo


Jun 10, 2011, 4:26 AM
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Anybody attempted to solo this?
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Apart from the obvious few printed in the article.

http://www.mountainproject.com/...o-insanity/105910430


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 10, 2011, 4:26 AM)


rtwilli4


Jun 10, 2011, 4:46 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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I don't see anything on the Mountain Project page about any solo attempts. My guess is that is has been AID soloed but has not been done FREE solo.

BTW, I think a few more people have freed the roof pitch since the route was submitted on MP. Pretty sure Matt Segal has done it...


ceebo


Jun 10, 2011, 4:51 AM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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Lynn hill did not solo it then? ( i thought solo was not putting weight on the rope or gear).


csproul


Jun 10, 2011, 5:09 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Lynn hill did not solo it then? ( i thought solo was not putting weight on the rope or gear).
for posterity and all...


rtwilli4


Jun 10, 2011, 5:17 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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Lynn Hill (and several others) have "free climbed" the route.

To free climb a route, you lead it, clipping protection along the way, but climb using only the rock. If you weight any of your protection or the rope in any way, it ruins the free ascent. Once you rely on gear, you are aid climbing.

Aid climbing is when you put your body weight on gear in order to make upward progress. Some "Aid routes" can be done free, usually at a relatively high technical grade. Aid ratings are A0 (bolt ladder) to A5 or C0 to C5. A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

IE, Lynn Hill "freed the Nose" in Yosemite at 5.14. But many climbers only free climb up to about 5.11 on the Nose, and then resort to aid for the harder pitches. Most ascents of the Nose can then be called 5.11 C2 (I'm not sure if that is acurate but it's close). The 5.11 is the hardest pitch that was free climbed and the C2 is the grade of the hardest pitch that was aided.

Free Solo means to climb free, without any rope or protection.

Aid solo or Rope solo are two terms used to describe climbing in which the climber is alone, but still uses protection and ropes for safety and/or in order to make upward progress.


ceebo


Jun 10, 2011, 8:19 AM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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rtwilli4 wrote:
Lynn Hill (and several others) have "free climbed" the route.

To free climb a route, you lead it, clipping protection along the way, but climb using only the rock. If you weight any of your protection or the rope in any way, it ruins the free ascent. Once you rely on gear, you are aid climbing.

Aid climbing is when you put your body weight on gear in order to make upward progress. Some "Aid routes" can be done free, usually at a relatively high technical grade. Aid ratings are A0 (bolt ladder) to A5 or C0 to C5. A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

IE, Lynn Hill "freed the Nose" in Yosemite at 5.14. But many climbers only free climb up to about 5.11 on the Nose, and then resort to aid for the harder pitches. Most ascents of the Nose can then be called 5.11 C2 (I'm not sure if that is acurate but it's close). The 5.11 is the hardest pitch that was free climbed and the C2 is the grade of the hardest pitch that was aided.

Free Solo means to climb free, without any rope or protection.

Aid solo or Rope solo are two terms used to describe climbing in which the climber is alone, but still uses protection and ropes for safety and/or in order to make upward progress.

Thnx for clearing that up. So to clarify, has anybody attempted to free climb this?.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 10, 2011, 10:24 AM)


rtwilli4


Jun 10, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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Matt Segal has freed the route. If you really want to know, Google it.


ceebo


Jun 10, 2011, 11:46 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
Matt Segal has freed the route. If you really want to know, Google it.

I'm looking for somebody to discuss the route with.. and you seem smart enough to have known the reason i have that link in the first place was because of google.


rtwilli4


Jun 10, 2011, 11:56 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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I am also smart enough to have Googled it myself. Chockstone.org is a forum devoted to climbing in Victoria, and there are about 5 different articles that all look pretty informative... a lot more so than anything on Rockclimbing.com.


areyoumydude


Jun 10, 2011, 2:09 PM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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rtwilli4 wrote:
A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

That would be incorrect.


rockforlife


Jun 10, 2011, 2:31 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
rtwilli4 wrote:
A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

That would be incorrect.



Wow you are so informative

If you are going to point something out why non just fix it for him??

Being a d-bag is great and all, I mean you have to be be one and all to even post on this sight. But you might as well be useful in the process.


areyoumydude


Jun 10, 2011, 2:34 PM
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Re: [rockforlife] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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rockforlife wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
rtwilli4 wrote:
A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

That would be incorrect.



Wow you are so informative

If you are going to point something out why non just fix it for him??

Being a d-bag is great and all, I mean you have to be be one and all to even post on this sight. But you might as well be useful in the process.

I figured he was smart enough to google it.


(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Jun 10, 2011, 2:35 PM)


ceebo


Jun 10, 2011, 3:04 PM
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Re: [areyoumydude] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
rockforlife wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
rtwilli4 wrote:
A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

That would be incorrect.



Wow you are so informative

If you are going to point something out why non just fix it for him??

Being a d-bag is great and all, I mean you have to be be one and all to even post on this sight. But you might as well be useful in the process.

I figured he was smart enough to google it.

Sly


rtwilli4


Jun 11, 2011, 5:24 AM
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Re: [areyoumydude] Anybody attempted to solo this? [In reply to]
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areyoumydude wrote:
rtwilli4 wrote:
A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

That would be incorrect.

In an attempt to quickly simplify the difference between those two ratings I left out a lot.

It is my understanding that A means that it is an aid pitch. Some of the gear may be clean, but there will be hammering as well.

The C implies that the entire climb can be done clean, meaning that you won't have to hammer and all of the gear that you place can be removed.

I assume (maybe incorrectly) that with either grade you may or may not encounter permanently fixed gear.

As for the difficulty, I probably shouldn't have compared the two (and I knew someone would call me out) because I've never led a real aid pitch.

Am I mistaken in regards to anything I've just written?


areyoumydude


Jun 11, 2011, 11:30 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
areyoumydude wrote:
rtwilli4 wrote:
A2 and C2 are similar in difficulty but C means that the gear can be removed while A means that there are fixed points of aid on the route.

That would be incorrect.

In an attempt to quickly simplify the difference between those two ratings I left out a lot.

It is my understanding that A means that it is an aid pitch. Some of the gear may be clean, but there will be hammering as well.

The C implies that the entire climb can be done clean, meaning that you won't have to hammer and all of the gear that you place can be removed.

I assume (maybe incorrectly) that with either grade you may or may not encounter permanently fixed gear.

As for the difficulty, I probably shouldn't have compared the two (and I knew someone would call me out) because I've never led a real aid pitch.

Am I mistaken in regards to anything I've just written?

Yes, that is more like it. The A rating has nothing to do with whether or not there is fixed gear on the route. It just means a hammer is being used. The C rating means that you don't need a hammer. Regardless if it is A2 or C2 you will still be removing all of your gear when you clean the pitch.

There are some pitches that go clean only because there is fixed gear on it (ie. fixed head, over driven piton). If these pieces get pulled a hammer might be needed.

A2 and C2 should be about the same in difficulty.


(This post was edited by areyoumydude on Jun 11, 2011, 12:52 PM)


rtwilli4


Jun 11, 2011, 12:57 PM
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How hard is it for the follower to get a pin out then? Once it's been hammered in?

So if even A pitches get cleaned after being let than the CLEAN part of the C rating means that you aren't causing pin scars?

I don't know why I never thought about the distinction between leaving pins and cleaning them. I guess it should have been obvious that you have to clean them as well.


areyoumydude


Jun 11, 2011, 1:13 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
How hard is it for the follower to get a pin out then? Once it's been hammered in?

So if even A pitches get cleaned after being let than the CLEAN part of the C rating means that you aren't causing pin scars?

I don't know why I never thought about the distinction between leaving pins and cleaning them. I guess it should have been obvious that you have to clean them as well.

The key when placing pitons is to not overdrive them. To get them out you want to hammer them up and down and use a funkness devise to yank them out. This will create a pin scar.


You can use pitons in "clean" aid climbing. You just have to hand place them. Hammers cause pin scars.


rtwilli4


Jun 11, 2011, 4:32 PM
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I see. Thanks.

I'm planning on doing the Glass Menagerie this fall so I guess I'll see all this first hand.

But we'll free most of the route and I think that there is so much fixed gear/bolts on the hardest pitches that we won't have to hammer.


areyoumydude


Jun 12, 2011, 1:53 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
I see. Thanks.

I'm planning on doing the Glass Menagerie this fall so I guess I'll see all this first hand.

But we'll free most of the route and I think that there is so much fixed gear/bolts on the hardest pitches that we won't have to hammer.

Cool. Good luck. I heard that is a cool route.


rock_fencer


Jun 12, 2011, 2:03 PM
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keep the hammer at home for Glass menagerie. A few regular hooks and gear will get you up it no problem.


TarHeelEMT


Jun 12, 2011, 10:31 PM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
I see. Thanks.

I'm planning on doing the Glass Menagerie this fall so I guess I'll see all this first hand.

But we'll free most of the route and I think that there is so much fixed gear/bolts on the hardest pitches that we won't have to hammer.


You should not hammer on Glass Menagerie. Even if all the fixed pins were to pull, you could make clean placements to get past them.

It's a fun route. The pitch after the roof is a bear in terms of effort, even if it is C1.


(This post was edited by TarHeelEMT on Jun 13, 2011, 10:43 AM)


Trasgo


Jun 12, 2011, 10:53 PM
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areyoumydude wrote:
The key when placing pitons is to not overdrive them. To get them out you want to hammer them up and down and use a funkness devise to yank them out. This will create a pin scar.

A shitty pinscar if you hammer the pin down past the point at which it was set.

TAPPING it up and then back down only to it's original position will eventually create a baller nut placement.

Hammering the shit out of it up and down will just leave a pain in the ass to deal with for the next person.


rangerrob


Jun 13, 2011, 5:47 AM
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This post is a great example of misleading information that is available on the internets. Pretty funny that people would write about stuff as if they are experts, while having absolutely zero experience at it.


Trasgo


Jun 13, 2011, 12:13 PM
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rangerrob wrote:
This post is a great example of misleading information that is available on the internets. Pretty funny that people would write about stuff as if they are experts, while having absolutely zero experience at it.

Yeah...I don't know anything about pins. Absolutely zero experience.

Carry on.


lithiummetalman


Jun 13, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Who cares if it's free soloable, that route looks rad!!!!


(This post was edited by lithiummetalman on Jun 13, 2011, 1:16 PM)

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