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Fixed anchors at the crag
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p8ntballsk8r


Jun 14, 2011, 10:25 PM
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Fixed anchors at the crag
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I ran into a route last week where the chains were in my opinion poorly placed and caused the rope to rub when I was lowered. What should I do in this situation? I was lowered with the rope running over the rock, and had my partner lead the route instead of top roping it because of this set up.

My thought was to minimize the rope on rock contact that top roping would make inevitable. Either way, the rope will pass over the rock when lowering, but this reduced the fact that the rope was rubbing on rock at least on the way up.

The rock wasn't sharp and most likely would have been just fine in a top rope situation, but I'm just looking for advice on what to do if I encounter this again.


redlude97


Jun 14, 2011, 11:18 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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Extend your draws so they don't rub, or deal with a little rope rubbing, its not the end of the world. You can also rappel if you think its an issue


sbaclimber


Jun 15, 2011, 6:53 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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slight modification to the post above...
redlude97 wrote:
Extend your draws so they the rope doesn't rub....rappel...
...when you are done toproping and have cleaned the anchor.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 15, 2011, 6:54 AM)


Partner devkrev


Jun 15, 2011, 12:00 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
I ran into a route last week where the chains were in my opinion poorly placed and caused the rope to rub when I was lowered. What should I do in this situation? I was lowered with the rope running over the rock, and had my partner lead the route instead of top roping it because of this set up.

My thought was to minimize the rope on rock contact that top roping would make inevitable. Either way, the rope will pass over the rock when lowering, but this reduced the fact that the rope was rubbing on rock at least on the way up.

The rock wasn't sharp and most likely would have been just fine in a top rope situation, but I'm just looking for advice on what to do if I encounter this again.


Tell all those top-roping sissy leeches to (wo)man up and lead the route! You even hung the draw for them!!


dev


p8ntballsk8r


Jul 3, 2011, 2:00 PM
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Re: [devkrev] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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With two lowering biners at the top, can I take a single sling and clip it into both carabiners, then equalize (the correct way not American Death Triangle) and tie an overhand on a bite and place two draws or biners?


jt512


Jul 3, 2011, 4:31 PM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
With two lowering biners at the top, can I take a single sling and clip it into both carabiners, then equalize (the correct way not American Death Triangle) and tie an overhand on a bite and place two draws or biners?

Well, stop doing that and use two draws or two slings, one on each bolt.

You aren't clear enough about how the rope was running over the rock for anyone to tell how damaging it potentially could have been.. Do you mean that the rope was running down a slab or over an edge. Running over a slab is nothing unless the rock is really rough,in which case, if you do it enough, you'll prematurely wear out the sheath of the rope. Running over an edge is obviously a hazard if the edge is sharp. If not, it is no big deal for top roping because the edge won't significantly harm your rope unless it runs over it while weighted. However, it might have been better to rap than to lower in this case.

Jay


p8ntballsk8r


Jul 11, 2011, 7:53 PM
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Re: [jt512] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Well, stop doing that and use two draws or two slings, one on each bolt.

You aren't clear enough about how the rope was running over the rock for anyone to tell how damaging it potentially could have been.. Do you mean that the rope was running down a slab or over an edge. Running over a slab is nothing unless the rock is really rough,in which case, if you do it enough, you'll prematurely wear out the sheath of the rope. Running over an edge is obviously a hazard if the edge is sharp. If not, it is no big deal for top roping because the edge won't significantly harm your rope unless it runs over it while weighted. However, it might have been better to rap than to lower in this case.

Jay

The rope was running on slab, not an edge, but it was pretty rough and not something I like to see. Rapping off seems like a great idea. What does the transition from being tied and reaching to top to rapping off look like? I know I'd need an ATC but would I need pull through enough of the rope so the end connected to me also reaches the ground?

As far as the two slings/2 draws. Can I clip a sling to each biner at the top, then just put either two draws or two biners through both the slings and clip the rope to that? Would it self equalize or would I have to do something to insure that both slings were equally weighted?


jt512


Jul 12, 2011, 7:15 AM
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Re: [p8ntballsk8r] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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p8ntballsk8r wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Well, stop doing that and use two draws or two slings, one on each bolt.

You aren't clear enough about how the rope was running over the rock for anyone to tell how damaging it potentially could have been.. Do you mean that the rope was running down a slab or over an edge. Running over a slab is nothing unless the rock is really rough,in which case, if you do it enough, you'll prematurely wear out the sheath of the rope. Running over an edge is obviously a hazard if the edge is sharp. If not, it is no big deal for top roping because the edge won't significantly harm your rope unless it runs over it while weighted. However, it might have been better to rap than to lower in this case.

Jay

The rope was running on slab, not an edge, but it was pretty rough and not something I like to see. Rapping off seems like a great idea. What does the transition from being tied and reaching to top to rapping off look like? I know I'd need an ATC but would I need pull through enough of the rope so the end connected to me also reaches the ground?

Only if you want to live.

In reply to:
As far as the two slings/2 draws. Can I clip a sling to each biner at the top, then just put either two draws or two biners through both the slings and clip the rope to that? Would it self equalize or would I have to do something to insure that both slings were equally weighted?

Don't take this the wrong way, but you don't know how to set-up a rappel, transition to the rappel from the anchor, perform a rappel, or set up a top-rope anchor. It is clear that you don't have the skills to be climbing on your own without a more experienced, competent partner. At this point, you need more organized instruction than you can get here on the internet. Find a live source for this instruction before you become a statistic.

Jay


rangerrob


Jul 21, 2011, 8:36 PM
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Re: [jt512] Fixed anchors at the crag [In reply to]
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Jay and I don't generally agree on a whole lot, but he is dead on with that last post. You're operating a car without knowing to how to apply the brakes properly. You need learn the basics before you wind up in a situation you can't extract yourself from. Knowing how to break down a set up and either lower or rappel is basic knowledge.....sport or trad!

RR


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