Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis:
Fx Rib at Santee Boulders, CA
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Accident and Incident Analysis

Premier Sponsor:

 


illusiondweller


Jun 14, 2011, 10:46 PM
Post #1 of 6 (1714 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 124

Fx Rib at Santee Boulders, CA
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Boulder: Dead Animal
Route: Traverse with Animal Mantle finish
Date: December 4, 2010
Time: ~1730
Temp: ~60 F

While attempting the Animal Mantle finish, 5.11, and having pulled up and onto my right arm (elbow to the sky), I felt my body start to fall away from the rock so I increased my body tension. In doing so, I felt two pops come from my right lateral torso causing me to end my attempt. Witnesses said later that it appeared that I was "let down gently" to the pads, approx. ten feet below. I did not strike the rock nor did my torso come in contact with the rock at any time. I landed on my feet and rolled into a fetal position on the pads. It felt as if my ribs were pushing through my skin.

Those present carried my pack as I splinted myself to my vehicle. I drove, and eventually admitted, myself to the local ER and was later dx'd with a fracture of the seventh rib. I was back out on the rocks in three weeks.

Here is a link of myself on the same climb a few years ago. The injury occurs at approx. 58 seconds:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKzlM-8t87I


Follow Up: I've given the same mantle one serious attempt within the last month and it felt as if my ribs were bulging in the same spot forcing me to back off. I wonder if the injured site will ever support the same stresses again. Bummer.


(This post was edited by illusiondweller on Jun 14, 2011, 11:50 PM)


jolery


Jun 17, 2011, 10:19 AM
Post #2 of 6 (1621 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 28, 2008
Posts: 173

Re: [illusiondweller] Fx Rib at Santee Boulders, CA [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

damn that's hardcore - cranking so hard your rib just fractures - no one can say you weren't trying!


illusiondweller


Jun 17, 2011, 11:04 AM
Post #3 of 6 (1613 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 124

Re: [jolery] Fx Rib at Santee Boulders, CA [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What's frustrating is that I've been doing this problem for nearly thirty years and never felt this weakness before. I asked the Doc if it could be attributed to my age (48) but she said, "No, it could have happened to a twelve year old," for I don't have a hx of osteoporosis, etc.

I can still enjoy the problem by doing the traditiional finish which continues traversing left under the overhang and topping out into the dihedral above, my ribs just can't handle the stresses required to do the mantle yet. Hopefully one day I will for it's a unique, challenging problem for the area!


onrockandice


Jun 23, 2011, 1:45 PM
Post #4 of 6 (1504 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 355

Re: [illusiondweller] Fx Rib at Santee Boulders, CA [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Some time try it again but instead of exhaling all the air out of your lungs take a full breath and hold it. Then go for the mantle. I bet it's a different tick of the tape for you.


illusiondweller


Jun 23, 2011, 2:18 PM
Post #5 of 6 (1495 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 21, 2005
Posts: 124

Re: [onrockandice] Fx Rib at Santee Boulders, CA [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh, believe you me, I'm holding my breath hard while doing that mantle. As you can hear in the video it's when I throw my left hand out to the edge that I exhale and that's not necessarily on purpose!


(This post was edited by illusiondweller on Jun 23, 2011, 2:31 PM)


onrockandice


Jun 27, 2011, 2:29 PM
Post #6 of 6 (1394 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 16, 2009
Posts: 355

Re: [illusiondweller] Fx Rib at Santee Boulders, CA [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

That is nuts. We have a really hard mantle in our gym right now that's very similar to the one you are doing.

I wonder if you took a stronger climber out there that could offer some different technique for you. That's just crushing that you cannot do that problem now. In the video it looks like you have it very dialed in. To be denied that for sure would be a downer...

The only other thing I could think of is to vary the technique or get a trainer to tape your ribs. Crazy stuff! Crazy for sure!


Forums : Climbing Information : Accident and Incident Analysis

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$16.16 (10% off)
$18.86 (10% off)
$44.96 (10% off)
$1.35 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook