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illusiondweller
Jun 15, 2011, 5:46 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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Boulder: Dead Animal Route: Traverse with Animal Mantle finish Date: December 4, 2010 Time: ~1730 Temp: ~60 F While attempting the Animal Mantle finish, 5.11, and having pulled up and onto my right arm (elbow to the sky), I felt my body start to fall away from the rock so I increased my body tension. In doing so, I felt two pops come from my right lateral torso causing me to end my attempt. Witnesses said later that it appeared that I was "let down gently" to the pads, approx. ten feet below. I did not strike the rock nor did my torso come in contact with the rock at any time. I landed on my feet and rolled into a fetal position on the pads. It felt as if my ribs were pushing through my skin. Those present carried my pack as I splinted myself to my vehicle. I drove, and eventually admitted, myself to the local ER and was later dx'd with a fracture of the seventh rib. I was back out on the rocks in three weeks. Here is a link of myself on the same climb a few years ago. The injury occurs at approx. 58 seconds: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKzlM-8t87I Follow Up: I've given the same mantle one serious attempt within the last month and it felt as if my ribs were bulging in the same spot forcing me to back off. I wonder if the injured site will ever support the same stresses again. Bummer.
(This post was edited by illusiondweller on Jun 15, 2011, 6:50 AM)
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jolery
Jun 17, 2011, 5:19 PM
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Registered: Dec 28, 2008
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damn that's hardcore - cranking so hard your rib just fractures - no one can say you weren't trying!
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illusiondweller
Jun 17, 2011, 6:04 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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What's frustrating is that I've been doing this problem for nearly thirty years and never felt this weakness before. I asked the Doc if it could be attributed to my age (48) but she said, "No, it could have happened to a twelve year old," for I don't have a hx of osteoporosis, etc. I can still enjoy the problem by doing the traditiional finish which continues traversing left under the overhang and topping out into the dihedral above, my ribs just can't handle the stresses required to do the mantle yet. Hopefully one day I will for it's a unique, challenging problem for the area!
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onrockandice
Jun 23, 2011, 8:45 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2009
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Some time try it again but instead of exhaling all the air out of your lungs take a full breath and hold it. Then go for the mantle. I bet it's a different tick of the tape for you.
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illusiondweller
Jun 23, 2011, 9:18 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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Oh, believe you me, I'm holding my breath hard while doing that mantle. As you can hear in the video it's when I throw my left hand out to the edge that I exhale and that's not necessarily on purpose!
(This post was edited by illusiondweller on Jun 23, 2011, 9:31 PM)
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onrockandice
Jun 27, 2011, 9:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2009
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That is nuts. We have a really hard mantle in our gym right now that's very similar to the one you are doing. I wonder if you took a stronger climber out there that could offer some different technique for you. That's just crushing that you cannot do that problem now. In the video it looks like you have it very dialed in. To be denied that for sure would be a downer... The only other thing I could think of is to vary the technique or get a trainer to tape your ribs. Crazy stuff! Crazy for sure!
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