Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Self Coached Climber book
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All


MTBZEN


Jun 20, 2011, 3:56 PM
Post #1 of 33 (5731 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 11, 2011
Posts: 33

Self Coached Climber book
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I wanted to thank everyone who recommended this book - I'm barely into it and already applying the concepts on the wall! It should be a required read for every newbie.

While at home, it's helping me visualize why something didn't work. While climbing, it's helping me try something I wouldn't have thought of on pure intuition.

Thanks again!!


Learner


Jun 20, 2011, 5:47 PM
Post #2 of 33 (5677 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

MTBZEN wrote:
I wanted to thank everyone who recommended this book - I'm barely into it and already applying the concepts on the wall! It should be a required read for every newbie.

While at home, it's helping me visualize why something didn't work. While climbing, it's helping me try something I wouldn't have thought of on pure intuition.

Thanks again!!
I don't care how new it is, The Self-Coached Climber is a classic and once this book is paired with the new book Redpoint, together they will constitute a sort of bible for climbing technique. So, be sure to get the new book by the same authors, Redpoint, which should cover more advanced material, in the same format that makes The Self-Coached Climber so accessible (lots of big, instructional illustrations, DVD video demonstrations, etc...).

Here is what Dan Hague had to say about it:

"Look for our second book entitled "Redpoint: The Self Coached Climbers Guide to Redpoint and On-sight Climbing" due out in October.

We help climbers learn routes faster and with less effort so they can send in less time.

We lay out the process of learning and memorizing sequences, rests, and movement nuance faster so you can send harder routes in less time using less effort. There’s also an on-sight performance section in which we help climbers read routes from afar and tips on applying the process to bouldering. Plus the physical conditioning and emotional response elements pertinent to each type of climbing."


It will be released October 1 and you can pre-order it now:

http://www.amazon.com/...308617111&sr=8-1


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 20, 2011, 6:00 PM)


ceebo


Jun 21, 2011, 5:27 AM
Post #3 of 33 (5569 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [Learner] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Need a socket Cool


Learner


Jun 21, 2011, 12:37 PM
Post #4 of 33 (5519 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Re: [ceebo] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
Need a socket Cool
Hey buddy, what does this reply mean?


rnevius


Jun 21, 2011, 1:30 PM
Post #5 of 33 (5493 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 31, 2010
Posts: 58

Re: [Learner] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Shameless plug


spikeddem


Jun 21, 2011, 1:47 PM
Post #6 of 33 (5482 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [rnevius] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rnevius wrote:
Shameless plug

Not really.


jt512


Jun 21, 2011, 1:50 PM
Post #7 of 33 (5482 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [rnevius] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

rnevius wrote:
Shameless plug

Since Learner isn't (to the best of my knowledge) affiliated with the authors or publishers of the SCC books, he has nothing to gain by "plugging" them, so ceebo's criticism makes no sense. At least ceebo is consistent.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 21, 2011, 2:01 PM)


rnevius


Jun 21, 2011, 2:14 PM
Post #8 of 33 (5473 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 31, 2010
Posts: 58

Re: [spikeddem] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I wasn't agreeing with him. I was merely letting Learner know what ceebo meant by his "socket" comment.


spikeddem


Jun 21, 2011, 2:21 PM
Post #9 of 33 (5468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [rnevius] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rnevius wrote:
I wasn't agreeing with him. I was merely letting Learner know what ceebo meant by his "socket" comment.

Ah! Carry on.


Partner j_ung


Jun 21, 2011, 2:39 PM
Post #10 of 33 (5456 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [jt512] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm in the DVD. Cool


rtwilli4


Jun 21, 2011, 2:47 PM
Post #11 of 33 (5449 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867

Re: [j_ung] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

I'm in the new book!

Well, at least I signed something saying that Dan could use my photos. I think he wanted to photograph me because I had an orange shirt on but in the end I punted on the route even though I one hung it on the first go. Since the book is on "Redpointing" I think I might have screwed myself out of the fame and fortune that comes w/ being in a climbing book! NOOOO...


spikeddem


Jun 21, 2011, 2:48 PM
Post #12 of 33 (5448 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [j_ung] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

Glad they found someone to fill up the skull and crossbones section! Wink


jt512


Jun 21, 2011, 3:33 PM
Post #13 of 33 (5432 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [j_ung] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

In the new one?


ceebo


Jun 21, 2011, 5:06 PM
Post #14 of 33 (5402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [jt512] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
rnevius wrote:
Shameless plug

Since Learner isn't (to the best of my knowledge) affiliated with the authors or publishers of the SCC books, he has nothing to gain by "plugging" them, so ceebo's criticism makes no sense. At least ceebo is consistent.

Jay

Who said it was a criticism, was it the happy smiley face that tipped the scale?. Im sure the book will be worth every penny, dime or camel (not a racist joke, ok slightly).

But, intentional or not i would still define that as a plug.. just so i can remain consistent.


Partner j_ung


Jun 21, 2011, 6:08 PM
Post #15 of 33 (5390 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [jt512] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

In the new one?

Yup. Dan and Doug crashed at our place while shooting at the New, and I helped out a bit scouting locations. Ended up belaying for the anchor-cleaning scene. I assume I'm blurry and/or off frame. But I was there, dammit.


johnwesely


Jun 21, 2011, 6:36 PM
Post #16 of 33 (5378 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [Learner] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Is the new book only about tactics?


jt512


Jun 21, 2011, 7:10 PM
Post #17 of 33 (5355 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [j_ung] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

j_ung wrote:
jt512 wrote:
j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

In the new one?

Yup. Dan and Doug crashed at our place while shooting at the New, and I helped out a bit scouting locations. Ended up belaying for the anchor-cleaning scene. I assume I'm blurry and/or off frame. But I was there, dammit.

You had to do a lot of work to get in. ;)

Jay


Learner


Jun 21, 2011, 8:33 PM
Post #18 of 33 (5332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Re: [jt512] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
rnevius wrote:
Shameless plug

Since Learner isn't (to the best of my knowledge) affiliated with the authors or publishers of the SCC books, he has nothing to gain by "plugging" them, so ceebo's criticism makes no sense. At least ceebo is consistent.

Jay
That's right, I have no affiliation with the authors or publishers of this book and will not make any money from its sales. I am simply a climber whom is excited for its release. I am very appreciative for The Self-Coached Climber and have found it extremely useful, so I greatly anticipate Redpoint. I just quoted what Dan Hague said about it in the other thread, "Decent sport/lead book" http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread It's the second reply in that thread.

ceebo wrote:
Who said it was a criticism, was it the happy smiley face that tipped the scale?. Im sure the book will be worth every penny, dime or camel (not a racist joke, ok slightly).

But, intentional or not i would still define that as a plug.. just so i can remain consistent.
Don't worry ceebo, we're still buddies... Cool

johnwesely wrote:
Is the new book only about tactics?
That's my favorite part, but fortunately it covers a lot more than that. The Amazon product description states the following:

"The first in-depth book on redpointing, where the climber does not weight the rope or pull or stand on manmade equipment

Assessing your redpoint and on-sight skills, choosing a route, and practicing with learning burns

The best ways to use equipment and safest belay methods and rope tricks for working routes

Tips for preparing mentally, physically, and emotionally for flash and on-sight burns, climbs that you haven't attempted previously"


http://www.amazon.com/...308713134&sr=1-1

Again, from that reply by Dan Hague in the other thread:

"We help climbers learn routes faster and with less effort so they can send in less time.

We lay out the process of learning and memorizing sequences, rests, and movement nuance faster so you can send harder routes in less time using less effort. There’s also an on-sight performance section in which we help climbers read routes from afar and tips on applying the process to bouldering. Plus the physical conditioning and emotional response elements pertinent to each type of climbing."


Judging from the way the Self-Coached Climber was spectacularly delivered, Redpoint looks to be one hell of a book.


jomagam


Jun 21, 2011, 8:43 PM
Post #19 of 33 (5324 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 9, 2008
Posts: 364

Re: [j_ung] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

Does anyone know if the DVD can be downloaded somehow ? I do own the first version of the book, but some sections were scratched and unplayable.


Learner


Jun 21, 2011, 8:47 PM
Post #20 of 33 (5321 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Re: [jomagam] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jomagam wrote:
j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

Does anyone know if the DVD can be downloaded somehow ? I do own the first version of the book, but some sections were scratched and unplayable.
Contact the publishing company (Stackpole Books) about it, and they may send you a new DVD.

Call
800-732-3669 extension 136
and/or e-mail
slane@stackpolebooks.com

Just tell them that the DVD that came with your book is not reading correctly.

http://www.stackpolebooks.com/.../customerservice.cfm

I know this because of the third reply (by "granite grrl") in this thread: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ACHED%20DVD;#1716724 Check it out.

Maybe they'll do the same for you.


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 21, 2011, 8:55 PM)


jt512


Jun 21, 2011, 8:59 PM
Post #21 of 33 (5315 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21892

Re: [jomagam] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jomagam wrote:
j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

Does anyone know if the DVD can be downloaded somehow ? I do own the first version of the book, but some sections were scratched and unplayable.

To clarify, the new book is not a new "version" of the first book; it is a new volume. That is, it covers different subject matter.

And, yes, when the first book came out, some came with defective DVDs, and the publisher was very good about replacing them; so, if you have a bad DVD, contact them.

Jay


MTBZEN


Jun 22, 2011, 10:15 AM
Post #22 of 33 (5261 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 11, 2011
Posts: 33

Re: [jt512] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
jomagam wrote:
j_ung wrote:
I'm in the DVD. Cool

Does anyone know if the DVD can be downloaded somehow ? I do own the first version of the book, but some sections were scratched and unplayable.

To clarify, the new book is not a new "version" of the first book; it is a new volume. That is, it covers different subject matter.

And, yes, when the first book came out, some came with defective DVDs, and the publisher was very good about replacing them; so, if you have a bad DVD, contact them.

Jay

Totally worth the effort to get it replaced, IMO.

Just started watching it last night and it really pulls together the concepts in the book with visual demos.

Can't wait to try the exercises tonight!


(This post was edited by MTBZEN on Jun 22, 2011, 10:15 AM)


danhague


Jun 22, 2011, 10:17 AM
Post #23 of 33 (5259 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2009
Posts: 5

Re: [rtwilli4] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

j_ung, now THAT"S what I call a shameless plug! Douglas is currently in post production for the DVD so even I haven't seen a finished version yet - that deadline is in mid-July.

rtwilli, I'm not sure who you are. Did I take photos of you? If so, on what? The book is more or less complete so I can check the photos that made the cut and let you know if you made it.

BTW, Douglas will be back east to do some commercial video for me in Virginia so we may see some of you at the New in late July.


rtwilli4


Jun 22, 2011, 10:50 AM
Post #24 of 33 (5243 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867

Re: [danhague] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dan,

My name is Ryan. My friend Adam and I ran into you at Cotton Top on Bridge Day last year. You guys were filming on those 10's and 11's to near the right side of the wall. I tried to on-sight that classic 12a and then tried to red-point it a few times and fell off. You photographed me and I signed a waiver for you. I was wearing an orange shirt and green pants.


danhague


Jun 22, 2011, 11:03 AM
Post #25 of 33 (5233 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2009
Posts: 5

Re: [rtwilli4] Redpoint book [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm happy to report that a picture of you on Psycho Wrangler is in the first chapter of Redpoint.

rtwilli4 wrote:
Dan,

My name is Ryan. My friend Adam and I ran into you at Cotton Top on Bridge Day last year. You guys were filming on those 10's and 11's to near the right side of the wall. I tried to on-sight that classic 12a and then tried to red-point it a few times and fell off. You photographed me and I signed a waiver for you. I was wearing an orange shirt and green pants.

First page Previous page 1 2 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$126.00 (10% off)
$123.30 (10% off)
$8.96 (10% off)
$26.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook