Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Fear of dynos...
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


flyslasher


Jun 20, 2011, 8:31 PM
Post #1 of 18 (4559 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2011
Posts: 24

Fear of dynos...
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey guys! I'm kind of new to the website and sort of new to climbing outside so I don't have a long list of awesome accomplishments.. yet. Anyways, before I climbed started climbing outside I went to a climbing gym which started me on my path but on one climb which was a 5.11a( I first started rock climbing 3 weeks before that :D ) I made it almost to the top but daunting me was a moderate dyno to a jug which was right before the top of it.

Problem was, I could not bring my self to making that leap of faith. I would get in a position and start swinging but I could just not make it. I don't know if it was fear or if I was just tired. I must have tried the route like five different times only to be stopped at the point.

I think I am afraid of dynos, in a high spot. Does anyone have any tips of getting over this fear as I know I will encounter other dynos down my path of rock climbing. I have done dynos before; however, only while bouldering close to the ground. I could really use some help :)


JAB


Jun 21, 2011, 2:52 AM
Post #2 of 18 (4477 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 26, 2007
Posts: 373

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

flyslasher wrote:
Hey guys! I'm kind of new to the website and sort of new to climbing outside so I don't have a long list of awesome accomplishments.. yet. Anyways, before I climbed started climbing outside I went to a climbing gym which started me on my path but on one climb which was a 5.11a( I first started rock climbing 3 weeks before that :D ) I made it almost to the top but daunting me was a moderate dyno to a jug which was right before the top of it.

Problem was, I could not bring my self to making that leap of faith. I would get in a position and start swinging but I could just not make it. I don't know if it was fear or if I was just tired. I must have tried the route like five different times only to be stopped at the point.

I think I am afraid of dynos, in a high spot. Does anyone have any tips of getting over this fear as I know I will encounter other dynos down my path of rock climbing. I have done dynos before; however, only while bouldering close to the ground. I could really use some help :)

Since you aren't afraid to dyno while bouldering, it sounds like your problem is that you are afraid of the possible fall. So do some fall training. Start by doing dynos on toprope and fall off on purpose. When comfortable with that, do the same on lead. When ok with that, you should be able to stick the dyno on the real climb no problems.


Kstenson


Jun 21, 2011, 3:19 AM
Post #3 of 18 (4467 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 7, 2011
Posts: 78

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'd hazard a guess that the fear could come from two potential areas, fear of gear failure and fear of belayer failure. In a controlled environment like toproping in a climbing gym, it is these two factors which determine whether when you fall you will be caught or whether you'll plummet to the ground.

Do some research into fall factors, impact forces and strength ratings of gear. Once you realize that in a controlled environment such as a climbing gym the gear you use should be 100% reliable then half the fear is gone.
(If your gym does not maintain its gear and facilities properly for you to develop 100% confidence in it, you probably shouldfind a new gym.)

Confidence in your belayer is a lot harder to develop, all I can suggest is to closely watch one another as you start out and confidence will come with time as your succesful climbs together increase in numbers. If you can't feel confident in your belayer for rational reasons, find another climbing partner/


ceebo


Jun 21, 2011, 5:43 AM
Post #4 of 18 (4437 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flyslasher wrote:
Hey guys! I'm kind of new to the website and sort of new to climbing outside so I don't have a long list of awesome accomplishments.. yet. Anyways, before I climbed started climbing outside I went to a climbing gym which started me on my path but on one climb which was a 5.11a( I first started rock climbing 3 weeks before that :D ) I made it almost to the top but daunting me was a moderate dyno to a jug which was right before the top of it.

Problem was, I could not bring my self to making that leap of faith. I would get in a position and start swinging but I could just not make it. I don't know if it was fear or if I was just tired. I must have tried the route like five different times only to be stopped at the point.

I think I am afraid of dynos, in a high spot. Does anyone have any tips of getting over this fear as I know I will encounter other dynos down my path of rock climbing. I have done dynos before; however, only while bouldering close to the ground. I could really use some help :)

I can't quite understand why they would put a dyno on such a sport route. Is it possible you missed some kind of under cling?. They can make what appears to be a huge dyno into a static reach. Their could also be multiple other techniques to make the reach that you are missing. Have the staff have confirmed it is a dyno?. By dyno i am assuming you mean both feet leave their holds.


JAB


Jun 21, 2011, 6:30 AM
Post #5 of 18 (4424 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 26, 2007
Posts: 373

Re: [ceebo] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (5 ratings)  
Can't Post

ceebo wrote:
I can't quite understand why they would put a dyno on such a sport route. Is it possible you missed some kind of under cling?. They can make what appears to be a huge dyno into a static reach. Their could also be multiple other techniques to make the reach that you are missing. Have the staff have confirmed it is a dyno?. By dyno i am assuming you mean both feet leave their holds.

What is it with you guys nowadays? Someone asks a question, and instead of giving a straight answer (or otherwise stay quiet), you immediately start questioning the question. If I ask "which are good routes in Indian Creek" I don't want a bunch of "Indian Creek sucks, you should go to RRG" or "do you even climb trad?" or "all good routes are too hard for you, stay in the gym, n00b!!!".

What does it matter if it is possible to climb that particular route without dynoing. The OP still has a problem with dynoing, so lets discuss that. Just sayin.


ceebo


Jun 21, 2011, 7:31 AM
Post #6 of 18 (4403 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2009
Posts: 862

Re: [JAB] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

JAB wrote:
ceebo wrote:
I can't quite understand why they would put a dyno on such a sport route. Is it possible you missed some kind of under cling?. They can make what appears to be a huge dyno into a static reach. Their could also be multiple other techniques to make the reach that you are missing. Have the staff have confirmed it is a dyno?. By dyno i am assuming you mean both feet leave their holds.

What is it with you guys nowadays? Someone asks a question, and instead of giving a straight answer (or otherwise stay quiet), you immediately start questioning the question. If I ask "which are good routes in Indian Creek" I don't want a bunch of "Indian Creek sucks, you should go to RRG" or "do you even climb trad?" or "all good routes are too hard for you, stay in the gym, n00b!!!".

What does it matter if it is possible to climb that particular route without dynoing. The OP still has a problem with dynoing, so lets discuss that. Just sayin.

Wow, someone is mad.

Excuse me for thinking their ''may'' be an alternative. Even still, do you think conquering a fear of doing dynos at height (im still assuming it was a full dyno) is needed right now?. I mean i dunno.. after a few weeks/months climbing i'm sure i could draw up a better list of priority's.. like actually understanding all the equipment and what it does before i go jump on it.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jun 21, 2011, 7:33 AM)


flyslasher


Jun 21, 2011, 10:42 AM
Post #7 of 18 (4356 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [Kstenson] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I don't really understand. It was just with this last move I looked for another way to get to it but couldn't find it. It was in a gym and top roped for that so I knew it was ultimately safe and I don't have a problem with falling and I do trust my belayer. Add on the fact that I'm pretty stupid/crazy I will do mostly anything. Just when I was about to do that dyno my body would freeze up and make it an utter failure. I will work on my dynos and try to find routes outside that have possible dynos or go into a gym and just practice it until I die.

I am going to have to get back to you guys after I start practicing. Thanks for the tips! :D


lena_chita
Moderator

Jun 21, 2011, 11:10 AM
Post #8 of 18 (4346 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5666

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Well, even when you know that something is 'safe' on a rational level, convincing your 'gut level' is hard.
Keep practicing dynos while bouldering, as well as while toproping, and I am sure eventually you will get that move.

But at the level that you are at, it is extremely unlikely that you would be doing many all-points-off dynos outside.


flyslasher


Jun 21, 2011, 11:31 AM
Post #9 of 18 (4330 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [lena_chita] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yeah, but I aiming and hoping to improve drastically over the next few months( Summer free time ). We'll see :D


Partner j_ung


Jun 21, 2011, 2:29 PM
Post #10 of 18 (4285 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

No other move in climbing so clearly illustrates what a lapse in attention leads to as does the dyno. I think you're a prime candidate for the Warrior's Way.


flyslasher


Jun 21, 2011, 11:43 PM
Post #11 of 18 (4232 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [j_ung] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Whats the Warriors Way?


Learner


Jun 21, 2011, 11:51 PM
Post #12 of 18 (4231 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

flyslasher wrote:
Whats the Warriors Way?

http://www.amazon.com/...308725120&sr=8-1
It is a classic climbing book dealing with the psychology of controlling the fear of falling and maintiaining mental control during climbing. You may want to supplement it with Expresso Lessons, which is a condensed version of Rock Warrior's Way, by the same author:

http://www.amazon.com/...11231/ref=pd_sim_b_1
By the way, one thing that helped me a lot with dynos was developing a more reliable techique for sticking them. This increased my confidence and really boosted my motivation for them. Now they're a lot of fun (a lot of the time). You can read about that here if you'd like:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...d;page=unread#unread


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 21, 2011, 11:57 PM)


flyslasher


Jun 21, 2011, 11:56 PM
Post #13 of 18 (4226 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [Learner] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh thanks, :D. As for falling, I don't really know what the problem was with me and that dyno. I know for a fact falling has never bothered me... I have walked up to the grand canyons edge( no rails ), stand tippy toes and peer over the edge with out hesitation. I will have to think about it and try a dyno movement and get back to you guys so you can better help me.

Also thanks again for the info and book, gotta look into it ;)


Learner


Jun 22, 2011, 1:53 AM
Post #14 of 18 (4197 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flyslasher wrote:
Oh thanks, :D. As for falling, I don't really know what the problem was with me and that dyno. I know for a fact falling has never bothered me... I have walked up to the grand canyons edge( no rails ), stand tippy toes and peer over the edge with out hesitation. I will have to think about it and try a dyno movement and get back to you guys so you can better help me.

Also thanks again for the info and book, gotta look into it ;)
I think I know what your problem is. I think it's performance anxiety.

This may sound strange, but subconsciously you may be afraid of how you will feel if you don't stick the dyno. You're not afraid of heights, you know you're safe, that's not a factor. But that moment you're going to make the commitment and leap, something deep down inside of you says "--what if I don't get it" This strikes you in a split second and you're stuck frozen right there.

Does this sound plausible?

There, your ego is threatened. Your opinion of yourself may be scarred if you don't succeed, and that is dangerous. The mistake you're making is that you shouldn't identify yourself with your performance. If this seems plausible to you, we'll talk about solutions...


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 22, 2011, 1:59 AM)


flyslasher


Jun 22, 2011, 3:01 PM
Post #15 of 18 (4137 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2011
Posts: 24

Re: [Learner] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thats a very interesting look on it Learner. It actually sounds alot like something that would bother me and possibly my problem.

Possible Solutions? I can think of one. Just do lots of dynos and get comfortable with the idea that I can stick it. Probably go out with more closer friends/family as well to work on my ego!


Learner


Jun 22, 2011, 3:21 PM
Post #16 of 18 (4130 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 28, 2011
Posts: 187

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

flyslasher wrote:
Thats a very interesting look on it Learner. It actually sounds alot like something that would bother me and possibly my problem.

Possible Solutions? I can think of one. Just do lots of dynos and get comfortable with the idea that I can stick it. Probably go out with more closer friends/family as well to work on my ego!
Exactly! Build up your confidence in doing dynos. You want to feel like you can conquer them, and this comes from reminding you of your successes. It's just a feeling you have, like you can do it.

Another thing you should do is make sure you're taking failure in stride. Adopt that perspective that as long as you're giving it all of your effort, failure is a good thing--it is the way to improvement. Failure makes you better because it means that you're pushing past your limit, and what is to follow is the adaptation that will enable you to perform at that level in the future. Think this way and you'll want to try new things, you'll want to challenge yourself, and you'll be hungry for the dynos.

Don't identify yourself with your climbing performance. If you do, you may develop a fear of trying something you may fail at. This is because if you're identifying yourself with your performance, failing could scar your ego. The way to free yourself from this hinderance is to adopt the above perspective, that if you're giving it 100%, failure is good and it's how you get better.

Another thing you may want to do is just get really really comfortable with the power component of the jumping movement. Besides climbing, you can do this by performing weighted squats, and pushing up really hard and fast on each rep. The point is not that the exercise will make you jump higher, it's to develop the gut belief that you are capable of EXPLODING! This will lend you that confidence that you need to love the dyno at the moment that you need to.

Anyways, any one of these solutions may be your solution. My advice is to do them all. If anyone else can think of any more, feel free to contribute.


(This post was edited by Learner on Jun 22, 2011, 3:23 PM)


saint_john


Jun 24, 2011, 12:46 PM
Post #17 of 18 (4042 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 4, 2010
Posts: 494

Re: [Learner] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dynosaurs are scary. whay wouldn't you fear them?


ecade


Jul 5, 2011, 7:54 AM
Post #18 of 18 (3868 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 23, 2011
Posts: 132

Re: [flyslasher] Fear of dynos... [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Understanding and welcoming your fear is the first step to controlling and mastering it.

What is the mantra Paul Atreidis Holds in Dune?
(yes I'm a nerd) But i've held this mantra for 20 years now and it kicks ass:
"I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain."

The part I love about the sport is when you have that realization that what is stopping you from the doing the move is not physical but mental, its fear and few things are more gratifying than when you master that fear, confront and conquer it. The grade of the move is inconsequential because the fear is personal.

I used to have the same fear as you. Let's face it the sport ain't easy physically and is only tougher mentally, if it was easy we'd call it hockey (a canadian joke)

I also loved dynos on bouldering but not high up, I'd often also have fears of big moves higher up. Then I read up about ropes and gear, impact forces etc... here is the funny part that help me conquer what I think turned is an irrational fear when confronted.

When falling, what is the fear? hitting the deck / gear failure. But science will prove that Dynos high up, are SAFER THAN LOWER DOWN!!! why?
The higher up you go, the more rope out on the wall, creates a lower impact forces on a fall because the force of the fall is distributed across the rope. And since we fall double our slack, most likely the higher up you are, the less likely you are to not deck out.

I know, its a crazy idea, but you are SAFER the higher up you go!!! I'm not the best person to explain the physics but read up on it, and next time, when you start getting the shakes and sweats reassure yourself with science, sing your favourite tune, chant a mantra, visual the move, and leave your fear a move behind and GIVE'R,

I'm sure you'll make her.

Cheers and Happy Climbing


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook