HAHA, well it's actually not done, I promised y'all though so I will put it here next week sometime... I've been busy bouldering outside before it gets to hot. 10PM session coming tonight.

Well, I finally filmed it. Just gotta figure out how to put it on my puter. You know what's crazy? If this doesn't prove how big a difference weight makes nothing will.

On the same rung, without weight the best I can do is 11 reps, with only 10-11 lbs on me, the best I can do is 7 reps. So that's roughly 35% difference in power from just ten pounds. If that doesn't make it clear how big a difference unnessecary weight makes to folks, nothing will. I've lost 22 lbs in four months now.....

I'll post it a bit later.

2.5 weeks and counting...

It is a 35% difference in endurance.

Sure, you may call it endurance, I may call it power, maybe it would be best described as power endurance. I call it power simply because if you look at it in the form of elapsed time, the difference is about 4-5 seconds. The total amount of time it takes me to do 11 reps is about 12-13 seconds, in my mind, it's still power. 13 seconds or less of climbing, no matter what, is power climbing and has nothing to do with endurance.

dab

I'm talking about campusing and until failure, I don't stop until i fail, not when I get to a certain rep. but whatever, if you want to call a increase of climbing from 9-13 seconds till failure endurance feel free. pz

Except the fact that it is endurance. Increased POWER would probably be you accelerating off of the hold faster which was untested and never mentioned.

no'. I had to move the pads further from the wall... for that reason... thats why there a ways back in that section. There was no dab, but thanks for being a dick.

If you google pro tips slopers you can see the first ascentionist and he does it the same way.

Is there anyone out there that can explain to me why these people are so unneccessarily negative? Is it jealously like you guys said it was before? Help me understand, seriously. Is there no good reason? Is this simply how most people are and I haven't noticed in my bubble?

Over 14 years of climbing, every climber I've met in person shares the same reverance for climbing that I do and seems to separate climbing life from the bullshit involved in day to day life. Yet on this climbing forum, I feel like I'm in high school again.

I guess climbing has become so mainstream, it's just like everything else now?

Is there anyone out there that can explain to me why these people are so unneccessarily negative? Is it jealously like you guys said it was before? Help me understand, seriously. Is there no good reason? Is this simply how most people are and I haven't noticed in my bubble?

Over 14 years of climbing, every climber I've met in person shares the same reverance for climbing that I do and seems to separate climbing life from the bullshit involved in day to day life. Yet on this climbing forum, I feel like I'm in high school again.

I guess climbing has become so mainstream, it's just like everything else now?

Story time

This reminds me of some things Dave mcleod was talking about. Allot of climbers spent/spend or are going to spend years doing the same shit ''thinking'' it was or will help them. Such narrow minded people appear not to like thinking (and that is referring to avg poster on rc.com) outside the box.. or doing things that the ''pro's'' did not cover or validate in the SCC. The SCC is a beginner book, don't care who is offended by that.. read it sure.. but fuck sake use it then move on to higher things.

Basically, your quick improvement (FROM HARD WORK) shows most of the people here to be wrong.. and that in truth.. they are poor climbers. They don't like that, maybe to the point of denial.

Personally i think this type of person want to get good at climbing but they don't have the determination to put in the ''real'' hard work. They think that technique is key.. and that sweating blood from hard physical work outs does not play any part in that equation.

I realised a little while back that i was such a person.. convinced that the likes of endurance/technique/ 4x4 drills would make me a better climber. Yes they helped.. but i can say with certainty i wasted at least 8 month doing too much of it. Instead of burying my head in the sand i admitted i was doing things wrong. So i used this forum and other sources to try and understand how ''real'' climbers (those who are actually climbing respectable grades) got good.. how they trained etc etc. Yes.. i said it.. im a grade chaser.

I posted some of my questions and thoughts/theory's on here but always got flamed by morons climbing mediocre grades and low motivation. I asked many things about weighted training, forms of cross training and so on.. all with the same answer ''just go climb'' - ''read the SCC'' (even after stating on many occasions i have) to the reply of ''read it again''.

I read a few blog's about campusing and so on. I started doing some here and their. Maybe a month or 2 later you came along with your posts of improvement and gave first hand views.. instead of quoting shit from the scc or quotes of a quote from the scc as so many do here.

I don't care if what i say makes it look like im licking your arse. Because what you have posted has helped me HUGELY in motivation, clarification and also validation. Reading a blog is one thing, but being able to talk to a person (like you) is a complete other story. Who the fk should i listen too?.. i guy telling me to read the scc and is climbing 5.11?.. or a guy who is working fking hard.. and climbing v12 or what not. Yeah.. its a no brainer.

What im trying to say is.. in the nicest way possible, rc.com has sections.. such as beginners, gear heads and so so. I thought that ''technique and training'' would be for those who wish to get really good AND STRONG in climbing. What i found it to be.. for 99% of the time is complete novice OR avg climbers with their heads up their jacksy.. who will never amount to much other than mediocre climbing of .12 and below.


I sense some flame on this one.

With all due respect, didn't you just post how the hardest route you've sent was in the 7b (5.12b) range?

I'm also not sure why you insist that you can't get stronger while training technique. I sure as hell feel worn out after a gym session of "technique training" on steep walls.

Strength gains will help. But the whole argument isn't that strength training is bad, it's about using your training time efficiently. One makes you stronger, the other can make you stronger and efficient. You'll need both to reach maximum potential, and holes in ones climbing will be different for everyone.

Wolfgang was crushing 8c before the campus board was invented

Slightly harder, but not the point. The point is that many people will be or are stuck at the same level. That will not happen for me.. as i ''try'' to keep a open mind for ideas or training concepts that are at least new to me.

Their is a difference between acquiring a certain level of mastery over basic techniques... and endlessly drilling them. Anybody who has put in the effort and time can easily reach an acceptable base of technique within 1-2 year. Any refinement of the above can be acquired as and when a particular route demands it. It was exactly when i stopped wasting my time doing such shit and actually started trying to climb/train harder.. when i started to climb harder.. strange? huh?.

And wolf gang invent the campus board, ask yourself why. Maybe he was better off doing some endurance drills.

You seem to be conflating the idea about training harder and training differently. Most climbers never climb at an elite level because they don't have the time or willpower to train are a high level consistently to get big gains. This is irrespective of which drills they do. There are dozens of climbers in the gym who do halfass hangboard and campus training and can't climb very hard routes, and there are dozens of climbers who never touch them that climb harder. Getting better at climbing isn't totally about which training regimen you use, but more about the level of effort and commitment you are willing to put in, this probably contributed more to your gains than any change in training you implemented, and your posts over the last few months make this clear. You keep bringing up single cases where campusing or hangboarding have helped certain climbers, but for every elite climber that uses these, there is another who doesn't and is arguably just as strong. Based on your conclusion no one can get strong if all they do is just climb, yet this clearly isn't the case.