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ecade
Jun 23, 2011, 4:19 PM
Post #1 of 17
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
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Howdy,
I live surrounded by Short Limestone routes,
I WANT GRANITE BABY and I Want out of this Province, American brothers and sisters, help me out.
What do you recommend for SUMMER Climbing, 5.8-11 Bolted Lines on Granite?
Looking for something I could do over labour weekend, driving.
Am always happy to recipricate regarding Ontario and Quebec climbing.
Cheers
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edge
Jun 23, 2011, 4:28 PM
Post #2 of 17
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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The Daks of upstate New York or the White Mtns of New Hampshire should fit the bill.
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dagibbs
Jun 23, 2011, 7:23 PM
Post #3 of 17
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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Where in Ontario are you? (Though, I'm going to guess you're mostly climbing on the Niagara escarpment and are located somewhere not-too-far from Toronto.) The Canadian Shield is granite!
Bon Echo will give you multi-pitch trad routes on granite, and you don't even have to leave the province! (Guide book available in PDF at: http://www.climbers.org/guide-to-rock-climbs-bon-echo-fifth-edition )
Almost all the local climbing around Ottawa is granite -- Calabogie, Mont Rigaud, Gatineau Park, etc.
The Adirondacks in (upstate) New York have lots of gorgeous granite.
Moving to the Quebec side -- Montagne d'Argent, Val David, the Weir and others are all granite -- route lengths varying but you'll find stuff in the 100+ meter range.
(This post was edited by dagibbs on Jun 23, 2011, 7:24 PM)
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ecade
Jun 24, 2011, 1:25 PM
Post #5 of 17
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
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Dankeshen friends,
I'm in Toronto,
And Yes I WANT BOLTS BABY,
I climb generally in the Escarpment, its too close to say no, Yes, most parts of the Canadian Shield are granite, but there is little to no sport climbing there.
So, I'm asking again, is there any place anyone can recommend that fit the following criterion:
1.Not to far so I am still able to get a good weekend session over a long weekend, driving to crag. Most likely over Labour Day weekend.
2. Bolted, with routes ranging from 5.8-11
3. Granite Baby, give me that good stuff!
I've done a bunch in Quebec, its great, but often slabby, looking for a crag with lots of vertical and overhanging walls.
Dankeshen again.
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dagibbs
Jun 24, 2011, 2:55 PM
Post #7 of 17
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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ecade wrote: Dankeshen friends, I'm in Toronto, And Yes I WANT BOLTS BABY, I climb generally in the Escarpment, its too close to say no, Yes, most parts of the Canadian Shield are granite, but there is little to no sport climbing there. So, I'm asking again, is there any place anyone can recommend that fit the following criterion: 1.Not to far so I am still able to get a good weekend session over a long weekend, driving to crag. Most likely over Labour Day weekend. 2. Bolted, with routes ranging from 5.8-11 3. Granite Baby, give me that good stuff! I've done a bunch in Quebec, its great, but often slabby, looking for a crag with lots of vertical and overhanging walls. Dankeshen again.
Maybe Rumney, New Hampshire -- it is, as I understand it, a sport-climbing destination. Dunno how much it has in that grade range, on schist (it's not limestone).
Montagne d'Argent has camping, lots of granite, lots of bolted routes in the range you specified. It does, though, have the issue you mentioned of being more slabby than vertical to over-hanging. Though, it does have some steeper sport stuff here and there.
Of course, you don't tend to get "steep" climbing in the 5.8 to low 5.10 range.
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edge
Jun 24, 2011, 3:03 PM
Post #8 of 17
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
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sbaclimber wrote: edge wrote: The Daks of upstate New York or the White Mtns of New Hampshire should fit the bill. ....minus the bolts he's looking for. 
I must have overlooked that part since deep in my soul I refuse to believe that people want sport bolted granite.
Sundown in NH has some fine, bolted routes on near-granite.
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kachoong
Jun 24, 2011, 3:23 PM
Post #9 of 17
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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ecade wrote: Dankeshen friends, I'm in Toronto, And Yes I WANT BOLTS BABY, I climb generally in the Escarpment, its too close to say no, Yes, most parts of the Canadian Shield are granite, but there is little to no sport climbing there. So, I'm asking again, is there any place anyone can recommend that fit the following criterion: 1.Not to far so I am still able to get a good weekend session over a long weekend, driving to crag. Most likely over Labour Day weekend. 2. Bolted, with routes ranging from 5.8-11 3. Granite Baby, give me that good stuff! I've done a bunch in Quebec, its great, but often slabby, looking for a crag with lots of vertical and overhanging walls. Dankeshen again.
You will be hard-pressed finding a granite crag ANYWHERE that's bolted like a sport crag.
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sbaclimber
Jun 24, 2011, 3:45 PM
Post #10 of 17
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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kachoong wrote: ecade wrote: Dankeshen friends, I'm in Toronto, And Yes I WANT BOLTS BABY, I climb generally in the Escarpment, its too close to say no, Yes, most parts of the Canadian Shield are granite, but there is little to no sport climbing there. So, I'm asking again, is there any place anyone can recommend that fit the following criterion: 1.Not to far so I am still able to get a good weekend session over a long weekend, driving to crag. Most likely over Labour Day weekend. 2. Bolted, with routes ranging from 5.8-11 3. Granite Baby, give me that good stuff! I've done a bunch in Quebec, its great, but often slabby, looking for a crag with lots of vertical and overhanging walls. Dankeshen again. You will be hard-pressed finding a granite crag ANYWHERE that's bolted like a sport crag.
Of course, anything in the 8-10 range is still going to be a slab...
 
...kinda far from Canada though.
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 24, 2011, 3:49 PM)
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rtwilli4
Jun 24, 2011, 3:51 PM
Post #11 of 17
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
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Rumney has plenty of routes in your grade range. It's not granite but it's definitely a change from limestone.
Like everyone else has said... the granite on this continent is, for the most part traditionally protected.
There are true sport climbs down around the Cochise Stronghold (about as far away from Ontario as you can get), which is an area made up of endless granite. Pretty low on the list of sport areas I've been to, but then that's not why one goes to the Stronghold.
It you like granite, learn to climb on gear.
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dagibbs
Jun 24, 2011, 9:13 PM
Post #12 of 17
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
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kachoong wrote: You will be hard-pressed finding a granite crag ANYWHERE that's bolted like a sport crag.
Montagne d'Argent in Quebec is sport-bolted granite, stuff from 5.2 to 5.13, got about 320 routes, probably about 2/3 of them are bolted.
Down Under and Copacabana are sport-bolted crags in Gatineau Park, mostly harder. The "warm-up" route on Down Under is 5.10c. About 38 climbs, again mostly sport.
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rtwilli4
Jun 24, 2011, 9:23 PM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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kachoong wrote: You will be hard-pressed finding a granite crag ANYWHERE that's bolted like a sport crag.
Since we're doggin kachoong:
Innsbruck is known for it's granite sport areas.
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moose_droppings
Jun 24, 2011, 10:14 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Jun 7, 2005
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kachoong wrote: You will be hard-pressed finding a granite crag ANYWHERE that's bolted like a sport crag.
Mt Rushmore area has 3 crags that fit that bill.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jun 24, 2011, 10:15 PM)
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kachoong
Jun 24, 2011, 10:24 PM
Post #15 of 17
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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moose_droppings wrote: kachoong wrote: You will be hard-pressed finding a granite crag ANYWHERE that's bolted like a sport crag. Mt Rushmore area has 3 crags that fit that bill.
I stand corrected then.... I can haz sport granite too!
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snoopy138
Jun 24, 2011, 10:52 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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kachoong wrote: moose_droppings wrote: kachoong wrote: You will be hard-pressed finding a granite crag ANYWHERE that's bolted like a sport crag. Mt Rushmore area has 3 crags that fit that bill. I stand corrected then.... I can haz sport granite too!
see also various crags in the Tahoe area, Sierra Eastside, Joshua Tree, Big Bear ...
and that's just in california
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dagibbs
Jun 26, 2011, 2:28 AM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 921
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ecade wrote: Dankeshen friends, I'm in Toronto, And Yes I WANT BOLTS BABY, I climb generally in the Escarpment, its too close to say no, Yes, most parts of the Canadian Shield are granite, but there is little to no sport climbing there. So, I'm asking again, is there any place anyone can recommend that fit the following criterion: 1.Not to far so I am still able to get a good weekend session over a long weekend, driving to crag. Most likely over Labour Day weekend. 2. Bolted, with routes ranging from 5.8-11 3. Granite Baby, give me that good stuff! I've done a bunch in Quebec, its great, but often slabby, looking for a crag with lots of vertical and overhanging walls. Dankeshen again.
Thinking on it, actually, come to Ottawa.
A day at Mont Rigaud.
A day at the Twin Ribs in Gatineau park.
A day at Calabogie.
Each should give you a solid day's sport climbing, all have routes in the 5.8 - 5.11 range. All are, basically, granite. None tend towards slabl climbing as their main style.
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