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Medial epicondylitis/Climbers elbow
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Jun 28, 2011, 1:15 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2009
Posts: 106

Medial epicondylitis/Climbers elbow
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I just wanted to throw out some wisdom and revelations Ive made about chronic medial epicondylitis. I remember scanning forums and blogs and google searches to find someone with chronic epicondylits and similar factors that I had and how they got better but none were exactly like so I just assumed mine was unique and I would have to find my own cure. So here is what I discovered.

It never goes away!!
Actually after a year of daily tendonitis, months of NSAIDs, daily stretching, cross fiber massage, intermittant useage of ice, 3 one month breaks, daily taping (circumferentially) and TWO steroid injections I think I may be closer to a cure:

My revelations:

1. Im 40, I have no mountains so I over trained in the gym and home wall. This was the cause

2. Not listening to the pain in the beginnng and continuing to climb, train and push through it cause I could still, was the biggest insult and reason it persisted I think.

3. Someone smarter than me said that when you have one area of your body that is chronically hurting look down. For me that would be my feet since I had surgeries on my ankles as a child it left me with flat feet, tight achilles and and simply inflexible feet. This has, in its own way altered the way I climb and I didnt even know it. Short story, because I dont have the feet flexibility and ankle strength I tend to overcompensate with my arms,,specifically my right one (the injured one). I made it a goal to do more climbing with hips out, working balancing and strengthening with slab walls so that I can use my feet to off load my hands. An orthopedic cause of not using feet can be just as bad as not using your feet due to undeveloped technique. Either way it has changed how I climb immensely. If I forget then my elbow acts up. I went through this learning curve twice and now I realize that I dont have the ability to load that arm and not expect it to come back.

3. So,,,,,Its about 2 months after my last steroid shot. My doc will only give me one more and then no more. I am pain free. If it returns I will strongly contemplate taking a true break of 6 months to let it heal completely. This is the toughest thing to do so Im taking the time to be mindful about technique, listening to my elbow, backing off the idea of being 5..12 and above climber, stop overtraining and ice after every outing.

BTW i asked my ortho doc about plasma injections and he says its voodoo medicine, he also told me that surgery to cut out the damaged tissue and replace the tendon is only for severe case of unrelenting pain. I think when you get a little obsessed with a sport like this it is tough to do the right thing until you HAVE to.....

Hope this helps someone



Jun 28, 2011, 6:55 PM
Post #2 of 2 (4624 views)

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 3

Re: [jbk641] Medial epicondylitis/Climbers elbow [In reply to]
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Hey. I found this site, and have been doing the exercises for four weeks now. I have ME in both elbows, left worse than right, and have had it for 2.5 months. Do EXACTLY what this guy says and it will help. You can even keep climbing, but keep it easy for a while. I no longer have the sharp pain that i had, just a dull ache after climbing. This exercise is awesome and does help. At the rate I am improving, I hope to be 100% within three months. It is a slow heal as you know...Be patient.

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