Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
troublesome elbow(s)
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 


tungsteen


Jun 28, 2011, 6:52 PM
Post #1 of 5 (1216 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 3

troublesome elbow(s)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hello all,

I've had some issues with my elbows over the past couple of months and there seem like some educated folks on here that may be able to point me in the right direction (or any direction). A few months ago while doing some climbing I felt a bit of tightness on the medial portion of both of my elbows but didn't think much of it at the time. I continued to climb until the tightness evolved into a pain sensation. I backed off climbing and did stretching exercises/pushups/dips for the following month or two. The pain never got real bad again, and seemed to vacillate between the two elbows, never staying constant in intensity, or even position. I waited for the pain to completely subside before climbing regularly again (2-3 times per week) and within 2-3 weeks made my way up to the grades I was climbing previously. I climbed pain free for this time period and then one morning after a climbing session I woke up with the same pain again in both elbows.

I will try to describe the pain as best as I can, but in my opinion it doesn't really match up with any of the literature I've read:

http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf

http://www.aafp.org/afp/20000201/691.html

also that webpage posted by the member of this form regarding eccentric contractions.

The pain is completely medial/anterior (absolutely no lateral pain at all) and has never been directly on the medial epicondyle. The best way to describe it would be directly medial to the distal bicep and proximal to the medial epicondyle. I'm aware that many flexor tendons/the tendon of the pronator teres exists here, and even the brachialis tendon? Could one of these structures be the offending one? The distal biceps tendon possibly?

I can palpate the pain in the region described above and it feels relatively deep. Sometimes after a good climbing session I will feel some other soreness that seems to be under the biceps and close to the triceps (brachialis again? could also be from the push ups/dips that i do). The only way I can precipitate the pain via muscle contractions is strongly flexing my arm and supinating. I also feel pain when wiping down countertops, lifting my feline friend, and the only move i'm aware of in climbing that initiates it is when I'm hanging with only my right hand and my elbow is bent.

None of the literature i've read thus far really jives with where the pain is originating from. Does medial epicondylitis necessarily have to be painful only at the medial epicondyle? I have tried eccentric contractions (described in the dodgy elbows article) and I am aware that these should aggravate the tendon but no matter what angle I hold my elbow at I can not precipitate the pain or any discomfort even. Are there any tests I can do to eliminate/zero in on what structures are causing the pain?

Thank you all so much, any help would be appreciated in helping me get through this frustrating time. I will check this thread a few times a day to try to best answer any additional questions posed by other forum members that may help them.


(This post was edited by tungsteen on Jun 28, 2011, 6:57 PM)


hillrunner50


Jun 28, 2011, 6:58 PM
Post #2 of 5 (1212 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 2

Re: [tungsteen] troublesome elbow(s) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Try this. I have ME in both elbows and these exercises have helped me tremendously in the last four weeks. I can actually climb 5.11+ again, and have been improving with far less pain. Hope to be pain free in three months (it's a sloooow heal). Do EXACTLY what this guy says to do.

http://sites.google.com/site/healgolferselbow/


tungsteen


Jun 28, 2011, 7:16 PM
Post #3 of 5 (1205 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 3

Re: [hillrunner50] troublesome elbow(s) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you read the post carefully you would have seen that I've tried these exercises previously and have been unable to generate pain at any angle (unless I'm doing it completely wrong). thanks anyways!


qtrollip


Jun 28, 2011, 8:40 PM
Post #4 of 5 (1177 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 28, 2009
Posts: 22

Re: [tungsteen] troublesome elbow(s) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi Tungsteen
I didnt read the links you referred to, but it sounds like it's the brachialis muscles that are giving you the problems.
Medial epicondylitis would be agitated with more hand grip and wrist activities, not so much elbow resisted activities.
The bracialis muscle also sits where you described your problem.
I would suggest deep tissue massage and strengthening in the full range (ie elbow all the way straight to all the way bent position)as well as isometric strengthening and eccentric strengthening.
Downclimbing will also help.

Quentin


tungsteen


Jun 29, 2011, 4:34 PM
Post #5 of 5 (1135 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 3

Re: [qtrollip] troublesome elbow(s) [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

qtrollip wrote:
Hi Tungsteen
I didnt read the links you referred to, but it sounds like it's the brachialis muscles that are giving you the problems.
Medial epicondylitis would be agitated with more hand grip and wrist activities, not so much elbow resisted activities.
The bracialis muscle also sits where you described your problem.
I would suggest deep tissue massage and strengthening in the full range (ie elbow all the way straight to all the way bent position)as well as isometric strengthening and eccentric strengthening.
Downclimbing will also help.

Quentin

Will try that, thanks a ton.


Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook