Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Indoor Gyms:
Lead test question
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Indoor Gyms

Premier Sponsor:

 


AamClimber


Jul 4, 2011, 12:06 AM
Post #1 of 10 (4001 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2011
Posts: 14

Lead test question
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hi, I'll be going to Mississauga in a couple of days and here's the thing: I can lead climb but I've never given a lead belay before. I mean I have, but I've never caught a lead fall before. The guy who I was belaying played it safe and took a rest on every 3rd clip meaning i tightened the rope at those points :/
I've looked at a couple of websites of the gyms in/near Mississauga and all of them require a lead test.

Is there a separate test for climbing and belaying or is it one? What exactly do they test you in a lead test? Do they give you a specific belay device to use? I can only belay on a Gri-Gri. Never had the chance to try other belay devices >_<
And finally, do you need your own rope to lead in gyms?
Sorry if the questions are stupid. I've never gone to a gym in the US/Canada before so I thought I'd ask about the specifics.
If there's any confusion in what I've written, let me know please.
Thanks =)


stealth


Jul 4, 2011, 4:26 AM
Post #2 of 10 (3950 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 28, 2011
Posts: 44

Re: [AamClimber] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

AamClimber wrote:
Hi, I'll be going to Mississauga in a couple of days and here's the thing: I can lead climb but I've never given a lead belay before. I mean I have, but I've never caught a lead fall before. The guy who I was belaying played it safe and took a rest on every 3rd clip meaning i tightened the rope at those points :/
I've looked at a couple of websites of the gyms in/near Mississauga and all of them require a lead test.

Is there a separate test for climbing and belaying or is it one? What exactly do they test you in a lead test? Do they give you a specific belay device to use? I can only belay on a Gri-Gri. Never had the chance to try other belay devices >_<
And finally, do you need your own rope to lead in gyms?
Sorry if the questions are stupid. I've never gone to a gym in the US/Canada before so I thought I'd ask about the specifics.
If there's any confusion in what I've written, let me know please.
Thanks =)

cool down man, they got bros who will teach yo.
just drive by , step in, ask top dog give him green .
chill out


dbogardus


Jul 4, 2011, 7:39 AM
Post #3 of 10 (3913 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2009
Posts: 148

Re: [stealth] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

stealth wrote:
cool down man, they got bros who will teach yo.
just drive by , step in, ask top dog give him green .
chill out


djlachelt


Jul 4, 2011, 9:31 AM
Post #4 of 10 (3875 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 25, 2005
Posts: 261

Re: [AamClimber] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

AamClimber wrote:
Is there a separate test for climbing and belaying or is it one? What exactly do they test you in a lead test? Do they give you a specific belay device to use? I can only belay on a Gri-Gri. Never had the chance to try other belay devices >_<
And finally, do you need your own rope to lead in gyms?

There is no standard for that in US gyms. Some make it one test; some make a lead belay test separate from the lead climbing test. The gym I climb in doesn't really test for lead belaying... it is basically up to the lead climber to determine the skill of his belayer himself.

You should just call the gym you plan to visit ahead of time.

It sounds like you want some training in best practices for lead belaying. Most gyms aren't going to give you that during a test, and would rightfully charge you for giving some training (and you would probably have to schedule that before hand). Sounds like the previous poster knows something about the gym... maybe that gym is more generous with their time.

Most US gyms that I have visited supply lead ropes, but you can of course bring your own. Some do not supply lead ropes, or charge you for their use.


notapplicable


Jul 4, 2011, 9:32 AM
Post #5 of 10 (3872 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17766

Re: [AamClimber] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It varies from gym to gym but they are generally looking for similar things and yes, the lead test involves demonstrating competency with both climbing and belaying.

In climbing they look for a properly tie knot and communication with your belayer. They usually ask you to demonstrate Z-clipping and backclipping and how to fix it. They watch for stuff like not climbing with the rope behind your leg and will ask you to take one or more falls.

For belaying they will look for a properly threaded belay device and rope management skills. Unfortunately not every gym allows you to use every belay method (I have to use a different method while taking a test inorder to pass) so just ask them what they look for and what techniques are acceptible. You will have to catch one or more falls.

Some gyms will ask you generic questions about gear, like what is different about a new rope vs. an old rope and how might it affect your belaying (new ropes are dry coated and slicker), etc... Usually there is one test for a GriGri and one test for a tube style device and you can use which ever your prefer.

I wouldn't be surprised if you fail your first gym test if you are not very expderienced and I wouldn't worry about it. I failed a test once with five years of climbing under my belt because they didn't like how I belayed. Went back the next day and did it how they wanted and passed.

You might also check out their website because some gyms post a "checklist" on there so you can know what to expect during the test.


Partner j_ung


Jul 4, 2011, 9:52 AM
Post #6 of 10 (3847 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18687

Re: [AamClimber] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What they said—it varies from gym to gym. Give 'em a call and find out what you need to demonstrate to pass.


Kartessa


Jul 4, 2011, 7:02 PM
Post #7 of 10 (3790 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [AamClimber] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'll answer your question for you...

Rock Oasis, Joe Rockhead's, TCA, True North and Climber's Rock all require that you do a Lead test both belaying and climbing.

Most will make you pay for the test, and a few will take a deposit that they'll keep if you fail.

You can still just do a toprope test or boulder though :)


jgross


Jul 5, 2011, 5:11 AM
Post #8 of 10 (3743 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 4, 2005
Posts: 26

Re: [Kartessa] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

At True North Climbing you have your choice of using a tube device (such as an ATC or Verso) or a Grigri. We will want to see you demonstrate that you can climb and belay safely, including catching a fall. The test is free, but you should call ahead to check that someone qualified to do a lead test will be on duty when you come (this is usually, but not always the case). The lead test is free at our gym.

However, if you have never caught a fall then there is a good chance you will not pass our test, and it is not the best idea to ask a friend to take a fall while you are belaying during a lead test . I would recommend that you get instruction first to make sure you know what you are doing.

John Gross
Owner, True North Climbing


(This post was edited by jgross on Jul 5, 2011, 7:38 AM)


jgross


Jul 5, 2011, 5:11 AM
Post #9 of 10 (3742 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 4, 2005
Posts: 26

Re: [jgross] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Oh, and yes, you need your own rope, belay device (some allow only a Grigri) and a locking carabiner to lead climb at all the gyms around here.

jg


(This post was edited by jgross on Jul 5, 2011, 7:37 AM)


AamClimber


Jul 9, 2011, 5:13 AM
Post #10 of 10 (3562 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2011
Posts: 14

Re: [jgross] Lead test question [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Ah thanks for all the replies .I think I'll have to stick with top roping and bouldering for a while :P


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Indoor Gyms

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$134.99 (10% off)
$14.36 (10% off)
$242.96 (10% off)
$7.65 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook