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Poll - What do you use?
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Poll: Poll - What do you use?
Ring/middle -  Index finger is biggest. 10 / 20%
Ring/middle -  Ring finger is biggest. 23 / 47%
Index/middle - Index finger is biggest. 8 / 16%
Index/middle - Ring finger is biggest. 8 / 16%
49 total votes
 

ceebo


Jul 1, 2011, 4:13 PM
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Poll - What do you use?
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When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the longest.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 4, 2011, 7:34 AM)


moose_droppings


Jul 1, 2011, 4:29 PM
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ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the biggest.

Depends.
How much weight is it bearing? All my body? Just keeping me to the wall? Above me? Below me. Arm crossed over? Left? Right?


ceebo


Jul 1, 2011, 4:38 PM
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moose_droppings wrote:
ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the biggest.

Depends.
How much weight is it bearing? All my body? Just keeping me to the wall? Above me? Below me. Arm crossed over? Left? Right?

If body position is dictating what you use, that's not a choice. I did say ;p.


moose_droppings


Jul 1, 2011, 4:49 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
moose_droppings wrote:
ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the biggest.

Depends.
How much weight is it bearing? All my body? Just keeping me to the wall? Above me? Below me. Arm crossed over? Left? Right?

If body position is dictating what you use, that's not a choice. I did say ;p.


Oh uh!
Is there a way out of this vacuum


acorneau


Jul 1, 2011, 7:36 PM
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I usually use the middle and ring fingers, although hold shape and orientation may dictate index/middle fingers instead.

As to your second question: my index finger is bigger circumference-wise, my ring finger is bigger length-wise, so which one is bigger?


serpico


Jul 2, 2011, 1:59 AM
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No pinky option?


ceebo


Jul 2, 2011, 7:41 AM
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acorneau wrote:
I usually use the middle and ring fingers, although hold shape and orientation may dictate index/middle fingers instead.

As to your second question: my index finger is bigger circumference-wise, my ring finger is bigger length-wise, so which one is bigger?

It is length. I just wanted to see if their was a pattern.. in that people will use the 2 longest fingers. It appears to line up the bone structure all the way down the arm and allow a more relaxed form. Using the smaller finger of the 2 curls the middle finger lightly more and twists the wrist slightly. I noticed in endurance drill (yes yes 2 finger type) that i got a slight pump when using index/middle (as opposed to middle ring.. ring finger being biggest). I was not sure if it was because i was just use to using the ring and middle finger more or if it is in fact an instinctive use of what is most efficient.

Seems for now, the poll is showing positive signs of it being instinctive rather than a personal choice. Again.. under the circumstance where you can choose between what set you use.

It is also rather strange that lately i find myself climbing easier routes with just with the middle/ring finger in a open hand posistion. Although it sounds silly.. it feels ''right'' and more efficient rather than engaging the other fingers and forcing the angles to engage more muscle/tendons.

I also noticed a huge improvement in open hand endurance if i use 3 fingers and not the pinky. In half and full crimp however, all fingers are used.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 2, 2011, 7:47 AM)


Grizvok


Jul 2, 2011, 1:50 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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It does depend on the hold but for the most part I'm using the ring/middle fingers...for example I think if you have a shallower two finger pocket it is pretty crucial to use the longest two fingers or else you probably won't get an even and secure grip.


ghisino


Jul 4, 2011, 6:47 AM
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on a perfectly symmetric hold and straight pull i'd say middle 2 fingers, but...


really it should depends a lot on the hold and move.

a few examples. All given as i was taking the pocket with my right hand.

-the pocket is more incut on itsleft side and/or i'm forced to kneedrop/twist aggressively to do the move. Middle 2 fingers or, if the hold allows it, back 3 (middle to pinky)

-the pocket is more incut on its right side and/or the move will be more of a gaston. Index and middle or index to middle.


a very special case are smaller pockets where i prefer to to stack fingers instead of going for a mono.
(ring-over-pinky, middle-over-ring or middle-over-index)


ceebo


Jul 4, 2011, 6:58 AM
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ghisino wrote:
on a perfectly symmetric hold and straight pull i'd say middle 2 fingers, but...


really it should depends a lot on the hold and move.

a few examples. All given as i was taking the pocket with my right hand.

-the pocket is more incut on itsleft side and/or i'm forced to kneedrop/twist aggressively to do the move. Middle 2 fingers or, if the hold allows it, back 3 (middle to pinky)

-the pocket is more incut on its right side and/or the move will be more of a gaston. Index and middle or index to middle.


a very special case are smaller pockets where i prefer to to stack fingers instead of going for a mono.
(ring-over-pinky, middle-over-ring or middle-over-index)

I have a sneaking suspicion that in doing that, you actually put more force onto the finger in contact increasing the risk of injury. If your middle finger is not resilient enough, and your forcing it to stay their with another finger (the middle is still taking full load) then a gut feeling tells me its not good at all.


naitch


Jul 4, 2011, 7:25 AM
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I think you're poll is going to be inaccurate. I answered before I read the posts and thought you meant which finger is beefier (circumference, not length). I would have a difference answer had I understood that.


ceebo


Jul 4, 2011, 7:34 AM
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Re: [naitch] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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naitch wrote:
I think you're poll is going to be inaccurate. I answered before I read the posts and thought you meant which finger is beefier (circumference, not length). I would have a difference answer had I understood that.

Then you could just say what you picked, and what you meant to pick?. Changed the op to avoid more confusion.

Even still, if you were forced to use a finger because it was thin, that is also not really a choice. So it does not really effect the results of what you would use 'given a choice''.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 4, 2011, 7:38 AM)


ghisino


Jul 4, 2011, 8:10 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
(the middle is still taking full load)

not really!
both fingers take a fraction of the load, otherwise it wouldn't feel easier!

So it will be less strenuous for the flexors' tendons and for the muscle fibers attached to it.
Smaller risk of related injuries.

But yes, some added risk for the joints, rather than the tendons, comes from the twisting...so really it's a trade.


wiki


Jul 6, 2011, 5:50 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the longest.

Hmmmm... Interesting the first time I log in for weeks this comes up...

A recent study shows that the length of your ring finger is related to how much testosterone you have as a foetus (i.e you are a boy or girl) and the more testosterone, the longer your ring finger. I wonder if you added a male/female thing into the poll, would you find men use their ring fingers more and females use their index fingers more (because of the length compared to the middle finger).

I am female and I cant use my ring and middle finger together because my ring finger is too short to even reach the hold. when I was learning to climb this was devastating to me as all my mentors were telling me that it was weaker than the ring/middle configuration but I just couldn't do it. Funniy enough, they were all men...

Any other women with thoughts on this?


ceebo


Jul 6, 2011, 9:25 AM
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Re: [wiki] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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wiki wrote:
ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the longest.

Hmmmm... Interesting the first time I log in for weeks this comes up...

A recent study shows that the length of your ring finger is related to how much testosterone you have as a foetus (i.e you are a boy or girl) and the more testosterone, the longer your ring finger. I wonder if you added a male/female thing into the poll, would you find men use their ring fingers more and females use their index fingers more (because of the length compared to the middle finger).

I am female and I cant use my ring and middle finger together because my ring finger is too short to even reach the hold. when I was learning to climb this was devastating to me as all my mentors were telling me that it was weaker than the ring/middle configuration but I just couldn't do it. Funniy enough, they were all men...

Any other women with thoughts on this?

That is interesting, i vaguely remember reading that (in men as far as i know) the ring finger being dominant in length supposedly increases the risk of cancer. I do not recall what kind of cancer, although it was with numbers in the 20-30% region of increase.

If what you are saying is true though then those findings hold little merit, as most men will be expected to have bigger ring fingers.


erisspirit


Jul 6, 2011, 10:15 AM
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Re: [wiki] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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wiki wrote:
ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the longest.

Hmmmm... Interesting the first time I log in for weeks this comes up...

A recent study shows that the length of your ring finger is related to how much testosterone you have as a foetus (i.e you are a boy or girl) and the more testosterone, the longer your ring finger. I wonder if you added a male/female thing into the poll, would you find men use their ring fingers more and females use their index fingers more (because of the length compared to the middle finger).

I am female and I cant use my ring and middle finger together because my ring finger is too short to even reach the hold. when I was learning to climb this was devastating to me as all my mentors were telling me that it was weaker than the ring/middle configuration but I just couldn't do it. Funniy enough, they were all men...

Any other women with thoughts on this?

Yeah I use the index/ middle finger. People told me the middle/ ring finger combo was stronger, but when I tried it, I was much weaker, and nearly injured myself.


Partner cracklover


Jul 6, 2011, 10:22 AM
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This one:



For two fingers? I guess I'd need both hands.

GO


ceebo


Jul 6, 2011, 1:36 PM
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erisspirit wrote:
wiki wrote:
ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the longest.

Hmmmm... Interesting the first time I log in for weeks this comes up...

A recent study shows that the length of your ring finger is related to how much testosterone you have as a foetus (i.e you are a boy or girl) and the more testosterone, the longer your ring finger. I wonder if you added a male/female thing into the poll, would you find men use their ring fingers more and females use their index fingers more (because of the length compared to the middle finger).

I am female and I cant use my ring and middle finger together because my ring finger is too short to even reach the hold. when I was learning to climb this was devastating to me as all my mentors were telling me that it was weaker than the ring/middle configuration but I just couldn't do it. Funniy enough, they were all men...

Any other women with thoughts on this?

Yeah I use the index/ middle finger. People told me the middle/ ring finger combo was stronger, but when I tried it, I was much weaker, and nearly injured myself.

Although i feel far more comfortable with ring/middle i never feel when using index/middle that i may get injured. This is a complete personal opinion, but if i felt a finger had such a weakness like that.. i would imagine it is a injury waiting to happen in the randomness and unfamiliarity of climbing new moves. I would try to increase that fingers resilience in a controlled manner, but that's just my opinion.. and one that will be flamed.


sspssp


Jul 6, 2011, 3:32 PM
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Sounds like my experience also. I had used index/middles for two finger pockets for years and was told middle/ring was better.

I tried it and initially liked it. It didn't really feel stronger but it felt more balanced/less stressful. But then I did start getting ring finger injuries and went back to index/middle. And my ring is definitely longer than my index.


shimanilami


Jul 6, 2011, 4:32 PM
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Fingers? I use my whole hand. In fact, I like to use both hands.

Wait. You're talking about climbing? Nevermind.


erisspirit


Jul 6, 2011, 4:51 PM
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ceebo wrote:
erisspirit wrote:
wiki wrote:
ceebo wrote:
When forced to use only two fingers what do you use given the choice. And, what out of your index or ring finger is the longest.

Hmmmm... Interesting the first time I log in for weeks this comes up...

A recent study shows that the length of your ring finger is related to how much testosterone you have as a foetus (i.e you are a boy or girl) and the more testosterone, the longer your ring finger. I wonder if you added a male/female thing into the poll, would you find men use their ring fingers more and females use their index fingers more (because of the length compared to the middle finger).

I am female and I cant use my ring and middle finger together because my ring finger is too short to even reach the hold. when I was learning to climb this was devastating to me as all my mentors were telling me that it was weaker than the ring/middle configuration but I just couldn't do it. Funniy enough, they were all men...

Any other women with thoughts on this?

Yeah I use the index/ middle finger. People told me the middle/ ring finger combo was stronger, but when I tried it, I was much weaker, and nearly injured myself.

Although i feel far more comfortable with ring/middle i never feel when using index/middle that i may get injured. This is a complete personal opinion, but if i felt a finger had such a weakness like that.. i would imagine it is a injury waiting to happen in the randomness and unfamiliarity of climbing new moves. I would try to increase that fingers resilience in a controlled manner, but that's just my opinion.. and one that will be flamed.[/quote

This event I referenced was ohhhh about 7 years ago, so you need not worry about my poor little fingers...

though to this day I still feel stronger, more stable etc with the index, middle finger arrangement. Works for me so far...so not really in a rush to change it.


climbingtrash


Jul 6, 2011, 6:08 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Poll - What do you use? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
This one:



For two fingers? I guess I'd need both hands.

GO

You been hangin' in the BET a lot lately I see.

I use the two fingers that are having the most fun.


ceebo


Jul 6, 2011, 6:18 PM
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sspssp wrote:
Sounds like my experience also. I had used index/middles for two finger pockets for years and was told middle/ring was better.

I tried it and initially liked it. It didn't really feel stronger but it felt more balanced/less stressful. But then I did start getting ring finger injuries and went back to index/middle. And my ring is definitely longer than my index.

Do you think maybe the ring finger could not instantly acquire the level of resilience at your current level that the index built up over years of grade progression?.


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