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PAP-postactivation potentiation training
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younggun


Jul 11, 2011, 1:00 PM
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PAP-postactivation potentiation training
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Has anyone tried PAP training for bouldering indoors? This would be for an advanced climber with excellent technique. I have seen the literature on how to train off the wall but has anyone designed a program or tried a PAP program on the wall, with any results when it comes to bouldering?
I would assume after warm up, you would try some very hard slow static moves or problems at your limit, repeating 3-4 times in 5 minutes, followed by a 5-8 minute rest and then some more dynamic moves or problems at 70-80% of your limit, maybe sets of 4 problems, with 4-5 minute rest between 3 sets? The idea being to add power by doing hard strength first. Any comments or experience appreciated?

Thanks.


johnwesely


Jul 11, 2011, 1:09 PM
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Re: [younggun] PAP-postactivation potentiation training [In reply to]
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younggun wrote:
Has anyone tried PAP training for bouldering indoors? This would be for an advanced climber with excellent technique. I have seen the literature on how to train off the wall but has anyone designed a program or tried a PAP program on the wall, with any results when it comes to bouldering?
I would assume after warm up, you would try some very hard slow static moves or problems at your limit, repeating 3-4 times in 5 minutes, followed by a 5-8 minute rest and then some more dynamic moves or problems at 70-80% of your limit, maybe sets of 4 problems, with 4-5 minute rest between 3 sets? The idea being to add power by doing hard strength first. Any comments or experience appreciated?

Thanks.

I don't get it. Could you explain?


ghisino


Jul 12, 2011, 1:24 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] PAP-postactivation potentiation training [In reply to]
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http://www.unm.edu/~lkravitz/Article%20folder/postactivationUNM.html


interesting reading.


never done something like this and never heard about it in climbing but probably worth a try.

looks like it would be much easier to set up on a system wall though.

another case could be maximal weighted pullups, followed by campusing...


edit:
no, i recall hearing about someone who does a few one-armers at the end of his warmup routine, to get "fully activated" or something like that...


(This post was edited by ghisino on Jul 12, 2011, 1:26 AM)


ceebo


Jul 12, 2011, 5:37 AM
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Re: [ghisino] PAP-postactivation potentiation training [In reply to]
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So this is tricking the muscles into dumping/producing more energy during/after static exercise then using that excess energy during high power dynamic exercises?.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 12, 2011, 7:04 AM)


jdgilberg


Jul 12, 2011, 11:10 AM
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Re: [younggun] PAP-postactivation potentiation training [In reply to]
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Steve Edwards knows a lot about training and is also a climber

http://steve-edwards.blogspot.com/...otentiation-for.html


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