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Fenst


Feb 1, 2007, 12:34 PM
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Bouldering in OHIO  (North_America: United_States: Ohio)
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I've heard of this area called "Whitches Nest" near Athens, OH. Does it have any thing worth while for someone living 100miles away? And I have seen some chalk on the sandstone above Lancaster. Does anyone have any info on that too?


rngrchad


Feb 4, 2007, 8:38 PM
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Re: [Fenst] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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I have climbed there a bit. It is incredibly chossy, with poison ivy all over the approach. Leave your chalkback at home and hike-a-bike up the singletrack trail and bomb down, through the culvert tunnel under the highway. Way more fun than the bouldering.
good luck.


flyingfrenchman


Feb 5, 2007, 9:55 AM
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Re: [Fenst] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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Witch's Rock is a name for a hill directly across the Hocking river from OU campus. There are a handful of problems up there. It's a short but rather steep approach from county rd 25? (also rock riffle road).....There is no posting on this site yet, but 6-7 decent problems at the first outcrop of rock, and some chossy lines at the second outcrop. It's a nice view from up there though, If you're driving 100 miles I would check it out (for an hour or so) along with the trailer park, and Hocking hills. There are a lot of good areas down here in Southeast Ohio that haven't made it on the web yet.


(This post was edited by flyingfrenchman on Feb 5, 2007, 10:04 AM)


climbappalachia


Feb 5, 2007, 11:02 AM
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Re: [Fenst] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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witch's rock is probably my favorite area in Athens. Mainly because most of the problems are concentrated in one area and it's a great place for a easy to moderate circuit There are easily ten problems in the v2-V4 range. There are a couple of somewhat harder problems too (V5+/-).

However, Most classic problems in the area are fairly spread out and it can be difficult for visiting climbers to truly sample what Athens Bouldering has to offer.

Have you been to The Hocking Hills area?

I don't know much about the Lancaster rock other than there are a small handful of developed lines but I'm pretty sure it's on private land.

If your looking at giving the Bouldering down here a try then I highly recommend coming down in the spring before it heats up too much. I think it's definitely worth your drive time, considering you are probably a lot farther from any noteworthy crags.


(This post was edited by climbappalachia on Feb 5, 2007, 11:03 AM)


Fenst


Feb 5, 2007, 11:40 AM
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Re: [climbappalachia] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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Thanks for all the info!!! I will get down there to whicthes nest as soon as the air warms. I just recently climbed at an area which was loaded with potential problems and had a handful of cleaned off V2's and a handful of V4-V6. It was 10-15 min off S.R. 33 (north) and had a feature called "Mushroom Rock" with 3 nice V2's on it itself. The area looked like private property and there were hunters shooting their guns in the hollows adjacent to where we were climbing. SOME ONE NEEDS TO MAKE A GUIDE FOR THE ATHENS AREA! I WOULD BUY IT!!! THERE IS OBVIOUSLY GOOD BOULDERING IN THIS REGION AND IT SHOULD BE SHARED WITH OTHERS. I can also see why some would shroud this information for sake of the bouders and the areas around them. From bouldering around the country I can tell that SE Ohio climbers are clean and practice LNT. Keep up the good practice. Pitch in, pick up trash and keep glass out of the way, I carry out something everytime I visit these precious areas.


lokionnitrox


Mar 8, 2007, 7:43 AM
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Re: [Fenst] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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Fenst wrote:
Thanks for all the info!!! I will get down there to whicthes nest as soon as the air warms. I just recently climbed at an area which was loaded with potential problems and had a handful of cleaned off V2's and a handful of V4-V6. It was 10-15 min off S.R. 33 (north) and had a feature called "Mushroom Rock" with 3 nice V2's on it itself. The area looked like private property and there were hunters shooting their guns in the hollows adjacent to where we were climbing. SOME ONE NEEDS TO MAKE A GUIDE FOR THE ATHENS AREA! I WOULD BUY IT!!! THERE IS OBVIOUSLY GOOD BOULDERING IN THIS REGION AND IT SHOULD BE SHARED WITH OTHERS. I can also see why some would shroud this information for sake of the bouders and the areas around them. From bouldering around the country I can tell that SE Ohio climbers are clean and practice LNT. Keep up the good practice. Pitch in, pick up trash and keep glass out of the way, I carry out something everytime I visit these precious areas.

I have no idea what you are talking about.... there are no climbers in Ohio. and there certainly are not high quality boulders at the climbing/rapelling area near Old Man's Cave.... again I have no idea what you're talking about mate.


dontmaytagme


May 6, 2007, 9:17 AM
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Re: [lokionnitrox] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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lokionnitrox wrote:
Fenst wrote:
Thanks for all the info!!! I will get down there to whicthes nest as soon as the air warms. I just recently climbed at an area which was loaded with potential problems and had a handful of cleaned off V2's and a handful of V4-V6. It was 10-15 min off S.R. 33 (north) and had a feature called "Mushroom Rock" with 3 nice V2's on it itself. The area looked like private property and there were hunters shooting their guns in the hollows adjacent to where we were climbing. SOME ONE NEEDS TO MAKE A GUIDE FOR THE ATHENS AREA! I WOULD BUY IT!!! THERE IS OBVIOUSLY GOOD BOULDERING IN THIS REGION AND IT SHOULD BE SHARED WITH OTHERS. I can also see why some would shroud this information for sake of the bouders and the areas around them. From bouldering around the country I can tell that SE Ohio climbers are clean and practice LNT. Keep up the good practice. Pitch in, pick up trash and keep glass out of the way, I carry out something everytime I visit these precious areas.

I have no idea what you are talking about.... there are no climbers in Ohio. and there certainly are not high quality boulders at the climbing/rapelling area near Old Man's Cave.... again I have no idea what you're talking about mate.

OHiO climbers ... just another paradox that has yet to be explained.


Limes


Jun 7, 2007, 11:16 AM
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Re: [lokionnitrox] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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Its not near old man's cave. It is in Athens, about 25-30 miles south of Old Man's Cave.


jjmule


Sep 12, 2007, 7:36 AM
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Protect Athens Climbing [In reply to]
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Dear Fellow Climbers,

As you all know climbing has many different risks, whether perceived, inherent, or otherwise. As more than just fans of the sport we find ways to overcome these and any other obstacles that may face us in the everlasting pursuit of the next classic route or problem. However some challenges are not personal; no amount of training or beta is good enough to work through them. One such trial is access. Being able to climb where we want is a privilege and the responsibility to manage and care for these areas lies on us, the climbers. Not only do we need to care for the areas we are already climbing at in order to continue to climb there, but we also need to take proper and appropriate steps to secure access to areas where we are not permitted. As people who enjoy being in the outdoors, and have a relationship with rock especially, it is important to show responsibility, good judgment, and proper outdoor etiquette to show our appreciation for what we have.
My name is Jonathan Mueller, I will be graduating from Ohio University in November with a BS in Adventure Recreation. During my days in Athens, OH I have learned a lot and gained a new respect for what Ohio has to offer (particularly to climbers). My goal over this summer and into the fall is to secure access to climbing areas around Athens and the Southeast Ohio region. For people who are not aware, there is a good deal of bouldering and some potentially classic sport climbs all from within 5 minutes to an hour of Athens. With the climbing that has already been developed and the prospective projects it is important that every measure is taken to make sure these areas are protected. This is my reason for writing to you, the work that lies ahead is not a one person job, it takes many hands to do the work of many men, and many men can make a big difference. With help from others in any form, we can transform Ohio from a drive-through state to a true climbing destination for climbers of all levels.
I have been doing a lot of research, but I still need help. If there is anything that you can do to help please contact me with ideas, I am open to anything. In the near future I will be arranging groups to go to local areas to clean chalk and do trail maintenance work, so if you are close by keep an eye out for a set date or contact me via e-mail. No ideas will be scoffed at and everything will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time and please help if you can.

Pull Hard-

Jonathan Mueller
Athens Climbing Coaltition (ACC)
jon@wildmercantile.com
740-594-5198


flint


Sep 13, 2007, 5:38 AM
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Re: [Limes] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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If you are not worried about private land issues, there are some nice high balls on the way to belpre. I even roped up and plugged some gear at a road side spot that you can see at the exit after the cool spot going toward the ohio river. I would show you but I am around the world.

I will drop you a line in March.


dbrayack


Sep 13, 2007, 6:56 AM
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Re: [Fenst] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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The intial post made me think it was a FACT OR FICTION question....I'm guessing

FICTION!


crazy_fingers84


Sep 13, 2007, 8:50 AM
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Re: [Fenst] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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I just moved from Athens, and after spending a couple of years there, I truly began to appreciate the area. There is a lot of bouldering in the area, anything from V0 to V7/8. If you are looking for the hard stuff, head over to the Richland Ave. boulder, easier stuff can be found at any of the other spots. I recommend checking out the Trailer Park & COAD area in addition to Witch's Hill. The Trailer Park contains my favorite boulder problem of all time. . .Birds Nest, V4 classic! If it is dry, it may be worth the drive just for that problem. Also, the Witch's Traverse at Witch's Hill is classic, I believe there is a video of it on this site. Stop by the Wild Mercantile (just off of Court St.) if you need directions to any of the areas, they are super helpful at that store.
p.s. the sandstone is very chossy in some areas, but almost all the developed bouldering is solid. . . remember;
C - climbing
H - hard
O - on
S - Sand
S - Stone

- Tom


stonefoxgirl


Oct 21, 2007, 11:38 AM
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Re: [dontmaytagme] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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dontmaytagme wrote:
lokionnitrox wrote:
Fenst wrote:
Thanks for all the info!!! I will get down there to whicthes nest as soon as the air warms. I just recently climbed at an area which was loaded with potential problems and had a handful of cleaned off V2's and a handful of V4-V6. It was 10-15 min off S.R. 33 (north) and had a feature called "Mushroom Rock" with 3 nice V2's on it itself. The area looked like private property and there were hunters shooting their guns in the hollows adjacent to where we were climbing. SOME ONE NEEDS TO MAKE A GUIDE FOR THE ATHENS AREA! I WOULD BUY IT!!! THERE IS OBVIOUSLY GOOD BOULDERING IN THIS REGION AND IT SHOULD BE SHARED WITH OTHERS. I can also see why some would shroud this information for sake of the bouders and the areas around them. From bouldering around the country I can tell that SE Ohio climbers are clean and practice LNT. Keep up the good practice. Pitch in, pick up trash and keep glass out of the way, I carry out something everytime I visit these precious areas.

I have no idea what you are talking about.... there are no climbers in Ohio. and there certainly are not high quality boulders at the climbing/rapelling area near Old Man's Cave.... again I have no idea what you're talking about mate.

OHiO climbers ... just another paradox that has yet to be explained.

Aaron, don't be an asshole, you are from Ohio.


jrizz9


Jan 16, 2008, 7:42 PM
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Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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Does anyone know if there is any climbing in cuyahoga valley national park ??
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eddie_munster


Jan 17, 2008, 8:58 AM
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Re: [dontmaytagme] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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The only real paradox is how many strong climbers Ohio has produced despite its dearth of rock. Think Angie Payne, Lauren Lee, Ben Safdi, Jeff Lehmkuhl, and the Karn brothers to name a few.


stonefoxgirl


Jan 27, 2008, 2:32 PM
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Re: [jrizz9] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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jrizz9 wrote:
Does anyone know if there is any climbing in Cuyahoga valley national park ??
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Yes there is - tall very solid sandstone and it looks good but every time I hike past it looks wet. It's closest to the Bedford Res. section.


Peterslug


Jul 12, 2011, 6:53 PM
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Re: [Fenst] Bouldering in OHIO [In reply to]
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I just scouted out some sandstone boulders ranging from 15' - 30' tall and taller various level routes in the Beach City Wildlife Area - Public Land. (Just north of Dundee, OH)
If you search Youtube, there is video of some TR climbing in the same region. Since these have not been climbed recently if at all, the rating are unknown to me. There is also ample moss on some of the faces, and some plant growth as some of the bases. I took photos and posted the areas in the route section.

Trails are not marked or do not exist and sometimes roads are not marked either...though they do exist. So there you have it, keep it clean... watch for hunters.

This link is of the entire area shows the necessary access roads.
http://www.dnr.state.oh.us/Home/wild_resourcessubhomepage/WildlifeAreaMaps/NortheastOhioWildlifeAreaMaps/BeachCityWildlifeArea/tabid/19924/Default.aspx


(This post was edited by Peterslug on Sep 14, 2011, 9:09 PM)


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