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ACLSRN
Jul 14, 2011, 11:03 PM
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Seeking to buy a Metolius Project Training Board - and am wondering IF they are really any good and help develop finger, hand and forearm strength....
???
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brijoel
Jul 15, 2011, 1:47 AM
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It's all a marketing ploy... Campus rungs are useless, too.
Really, though - how hard are you climbing and for how long? Fingerboards are damn near tendon injury guarantees if you haven't been climbing for long.
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ACLSRN
Jul 15, 2011, 1:53 AM
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I am a recreational climber - mainly on weekends - just getting back into it after a 20 yr retirement - looking to improve my grip and hand, finger and forearm strength, etc.
So these boards really don't improve such very much?
I would think that hanging on to rough hand holds with 1,2,3 and 4 fingers would do much for conditioning and strengthening just as would any exercise program where one works out 3x per week?
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Grizvok
Jul 15, 2011, 5:21 AM
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ACLSRN wrote: I am a recreational climber - mainly on weekends - just getting back into it after a 20 yr retirement - looking to improve my grip and hand, finger and forearm strength, etc. So these boards really don't improve such very much? I would think that hanging on to rough hand holds with 1,2,3 and 4 fingers would do much for conditioning and strengthening just as would any exercise program where one works out 3x per week?
His point is that not having climbed for so long is going to take a toll on your climbing ability and jumping into something like campusing or hangboarding isn't the smartest idea because these things cause injury unless you are ready for the stresses of it.
You'd be best off doing tons of actual climbing, learning movement, watching your diet (if you need to shed a few lbs), and being psyched about actually climbing.
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ACLSRN
Jul 15, 2011, 9:27 AM
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Oh OK!
I am VERY fit for my age (52) - I do P90X and run, am vegan and weight 142# at 5 ft 8 in and pretty ripped honestly. I don't need to shed any weight at all! Yay!
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naitch
Jul 15, 2011, 10:23 AM
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I started climbing when I was 50 (10 years ago) and am also very fit for my age. Since you're fit and motivated your climbing muscles will develop a lot faster than tendon strength. This will put an extra amount of stress on your finger/hand tendons - especially on small crimpers and things like campus boards. I went that route and tore tendon pulleys in my ring fingers on both hands 2-3 times. It took several years for the tendon strength to catch up to muscle strength. So a word to the wise...
If you have to use a training aid (again, just climbing is better at this point), then use something that is really tendon friendly like Rock Rings.
(This post was edited by naitch on Jul 16, 2011, 7:23 PM)
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ACLSRN
Jul 15, 2011, 10:32 AM
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OK, thanks for the info...
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habitat
Jul 16, 2011, 3:46 PM
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ACLSRN wrote: I am a recreational climber - mainly on weekends - just getting back into it after a 20 yr retirement - looking to improve my grip and hand, finger and forearm strength, etc. So these boards really don't improve such very much? I would think that hanging on to rough hand holds with 1,2,3 and 4 fingers would do much for conditioning and strengthening just as would any exercise program where one works out 3x per week?
Actually, these boards can improve your strength and endurance by a vast margin. The trick is to find out what is just enough to improve muscle growth without getting yourself injured.
When you are training be sure to drink a ton of water. Wolfgang Gullich drank a gallon a day on his training sessions; as you become dehydrated you can injure digits more easily as the body conserves water in the brain and vital organs rather than limbs.
Don't listen to those guys upthread if you are serious about finger training; I am in my 40's and have made good gains using targeted finger training. Am climbing harder than ever, 5.13 and consistently...
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ACLSRN
Jul 16, 2011, 3:52 PM
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habitat wrote: ACLSRN wrote: I am a recreational climber - mainly on weekends - just getting back into it after a 20 yr retirement - looking to improve my grip and hand, finger and forearm strength, etc. So these boards really don't improve such very much? I would think that hanging on to rough hand holds with 1,2,3 and 4 fingers would do much for conditioning and strengthening just as would any exercise program where one works out 3x per week? Actually, these boards can improve your strength and endurance by a vast margin. The trick is to find out what is just enough to improve muscle growth without getting yourself injured. When you are training be sure to drink a ton of water. Wolfgang Gullich drank a gallon a day on his training sessions; as you become dehydrated you can injure digits more easily as the body conserves water in the brain and vital organs rather than limbs. Don't listen to those guys upthread if you are serious about finger training; I am in my 40's and have made good gains using targeted finger training. Am climbing harder than ever, 5.13 and consistently...
Thanks and I agree....ANY training - be it running, weights, etc can lead to injuries from over training and such...the key is - having some 'common sense' and listening to your body and not overdoing it.
As a nurse, I can relate to the gallon of H2O per day theory, I agree - with the body being over 70% water most people are dehydrated consistently. A leading nutrition expect used to say that if your urine clear all the time - then you're dehydrated!
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strickrock
Jul 16, 2011, 4:01 PM
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What kind of targeted workout are you talking about? If you don't mind me asking.
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ceebo
Jul 16, 2011, 5:01 PM
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If you want to go at it cautiously, use the biggest holds and go for 10 sets of 8 seconds for the first month. Use that month to work on smoothly easing weight onto fingers at the start of a set, and easing weight off fingers at the end of a set. Their also should be very little to no swing once your feet are off the ground.
I dunno how many sessions per week you can personally handle.. that's totally your own call.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 16, 2011, 5:02 PM)
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naitch
Jul 16, 2011, 7:32 PM
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The water was a good comment and whether on rock, rock rings, hangboard, or campus board, start off slowly and work your way up - both in the daily workout and long term.
I still place my money on just climbing as much as possible until you get to 5.12 or above. There is much to be gained by using the approach of the Self-Coached Climber. Technique can't be underestimated.
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JoeHamilton
Jul 18, 2011, 2:23 AM
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I find the threshold of my door to be a good hang and chin up tool . I will admit I am only about 130 lbs ,.but it works well for me . I am looking to by a new hang board soon . I DO NOT RECOMEND MY METHOD but willl share because it does help ME I start on the big juggy hang holds for a little bit then to the sloppers as long as possible till i feel like Im about to slip then move into a small finger grip I saty on the baord moveing and switch up till I need to let off .Keep in mind FINGERS dont have muscle hand and finger strenth comes from the forarm and the tendons attached ,.. Now, I have a question about the hydration thing ? in the army they MADE us drink lots of water and said the clearer the urine the better. IE: peeing water , .Am I strange or odd because the more water I drink the more I pee and the clearer it is ?
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ACLSRN
Jul 18, 2011, 3:59 AM
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JoeHamilton wrote: I find the threshold of my door to be a good hang and chin up tool . I will admit I am only about 130 lbs ,.but it works well for me . I am looking to by a new hang board soon . I DO NOT RECOMEND MY METHOD but willl share because it does help ME I start on the big juggy hang holds for a little bit then to the sloppers as long as possible till i feel like Im about to slip then move into a small finger grip I saty on the baord moveing and switch up till I need to let off .Keep in mind FINGERS dont have muscle hand and finger strenth comes from the forarm and the tendons attached ,.. Now, I have a question about the hydration thing ? in the army they MADE us drink lots of water and said the clearer the urine the better. IE: peeing water , .Am I strange or odd because the more water I drink the more I pee and the clearer it is ?
Joe - thanks for the good training info....
No, that is correct. There is a Dr named Dr. Robert O. Young who wrote a book called "The pH Miracle." I have met him several times and he has like 6 PhD's in Microbiology....to make a long story short....this guy is brilliant....and says...."If you urine is NOT clear then you are not drinking enuff water and are dehydrated."
He advocates....and I know people are gonna hate hearing this...that someone needs to drink like 5 liters of pure water every day. Now, I know few ever do this b/c they'd be doing nothing all day but peeing in the bathroom at work, etc. But this is what he says....and as a nurse I can attest to it's validity. Unless someone say had CHF or edema - then I'd say NO not to drink that much water. But, the rule of thumb in nursing college was/is - that once you feel THIRST - you're body is like in a negative balance of about 1 liter of H2O already....but ideally - to keep the body hydrated and the kidneys flushed and the toxins out (remember - too much acid in the body = ideal conditions for disease to take over the cells). Our bodies are 70% water...and most people don't realize that we LOSE water everyday not only by urinating but also by sweating (of course), moisture to the skin and even respiration! Yes, H2O is lost when you exhale from the lungs - because air from inside your lungs has been combined with H2O as well....which is why when u exhale outside on a cold winter day - you see 'steam.' Your body loses water in MANY ways during the day and night - not just by urinating or sweating as most people think. It takes H2O to keep your eyes, nasal passages, joint fluids, etc in enuff water! I'm impressed that the US Army teaches that. Actually - very few people know that and/or would even BELIEVE it...but it IS true!
(This post was edited by ACLSRN on Jul 18, 2011, 4:05 AM)
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JoeHamilton
Jul 18, 2011, 2:33 PM
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thanx so much .. I have argued this many times ,and thought maybe I was going crazy
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ACLSRN
Jul 18, 2011, 2:38 PM
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JoeHamilton wrote: thanx so much .. I have argued this many times ,and thought maybe I was going crazy
No - you're not crazy - tho 99% of the people I tell this too think I am as well - but it IS true. Water plays much more of a vital role in the body then most people even realize! They think "God - if I am peeing THIS much I mus be overtaxing my kidneys!" Well the truth is - it's actually great for the kidney's and helps prevent kidney stones from forming - esp when taking certain medications such as antibiotics, etc. People who dink a lot of water almost always have better looking skin, etc. too.
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ceebo
Jul 18, 2011, 4:28 PM
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ACLSRN wrote: JoeHamilton wrote: thanx so much .. I have argued this many times ,and thought maybe I was going crazy No - you're not crazy - tho 99% of the people I tell this too think I am as well - but it IS true. Water plays much more of a vital role in the body then most people even realize! They think "God - if I am peeing THIS much I mus be overtaxing my kidneys!" Well the truth is - it's actually great for the kidney's and helps prevent kidney stones from forming - esp when taking certain medications such as antibiotics, etc. People who dink a lot of water almost always have better looking skin, etc. too.
Is it not true though that too much water can wash out minerals, nutrients or w/e the fuck?.
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ACLSRN
Jul 18, 2011, 5:12 PM
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ceebo wrote: ACLSRN wrote: JoeHamilton wrote: thanx so much .. I have argued this many times ,and thought maybe I was going crazy No - you're not crazy - tho 99% of the people I tell this too think I am as well - but it IS true. Water plays much more of a vital role in the body then most people even realize! They think "God - if I am peeing THIS much I mus be overtaxing my kidneys!" Well the truth is - it's actually great for the kidney's and helps prevent kidney stones from forming - esp when taking certain medications such as antibiotics, etc. People who dink a lot of water almost always have better looking skin, etc. too. Is it not true though that too much water can wash out minerals, nutrients or w/e the fuck?.
Well, yeah you could to a point - but according to experts that isn't an issue.
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esander4
Jul 20, 2011, 9:42 PM
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ceebo wrote: ACLSRN wrote: JoeHamilton wrote: thanx so much .. I have argued this many times ,and thought maybe I was going crazy No - you're not crazy - tho 99% of the people I tell this too think I am as well - but it IS true. Water plays much more of a vital role in the body then most people even realize! They think "God - if I am peeing THIS much I mus be overtaxing my kidneys!" Well the truth is - it's actually great for the kidney's and helps prevent kidney stones from forming - esp when taking certain medications such as antibiotics, etc. People who dink a lot of water almost always have better looking skin, etc. too. Is it not true though that too much water can wash out minerals, nutrients or w/e the fuck?.
The worry would be water poisoning before "washing out minerals, nutrients, or w/e the fuck". But to do that you'd have to drink like a gallon of water every twenty minutes or so for the whole day. It's more than anyone would realistically drink (but it isn't unheard of, last one i heard was of a radio competition for who could drink the most water in a certain amount of time. The winner died of water poisoning)
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JoeHamilton
Jul 21, 2011, 3:06 AM
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WOW just frigin WOW can you imagine drinking so much water voulenterly that you I guess basicly drown.thats just fucked up .lmao .poor guy .
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