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GreenGoblin7


Jul 19, 2011, 10:45 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2010
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Training Program
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First off a little back ground, I have been climbing for a little over a year and have sent a handful of V7's outdoors. I feel as though I am beginning to plateau and really want to train hard the rest of the summer before the season begins. I had a finger pully injury 4 months ago and have been climbing hard again for the past 2 months. I have access to a hang board, campus board, and a 45* home wall.

My real issue is balancing an effective level of training with staying uninjured. I also need some structure in my training so that I don't end up just doing a few of one exercise one day and something else another. I feel like my weaknesses are my finger strength and my core strength. If someone could provide a rough outline for a weekly training routine it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.


flesh


Jul 19, 2011, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2011
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Re: [GreenGoblin7] Training Program [In reply to]
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GreenGoblin7 wrote:
First off a little back ground, I have been climbing for a little over a year and have sent a handful of V7's outdoors. I feel as though I am beginning to plateau and really want to train hard the rest of the summer before the season begins. I had a finger pully injury 4 months ago and have been climbing hard again for the past 2 months. I have access to a hang board, campus board, and a 45* home wall.

My real issue is balancing an effective level of training with staying uninjured. I also need some structure in my training so that I don't end up just doing a few of one exercise one day and something else another. I feel like my weaknesses are my finger strength and my core strength. If someone could provide a rough outline for a weekly training routine it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

What you do is climb open handed most of the time. When you crimp hard which should be rare, don't do it back to back days, maybe once a week at most. Don't do repetitive movement period more than once a week. Such as the same campus routine or lockoff routine etc.

For you core, once a weekish, train full exstension lockoffs where you put your feet in different postions on your 45 degree wall such as drop knee, back step, froggy, etc, and reach as far as you can and just hold your arm in front of the next hold without grabbing it and count out the time. Only do this about twice a month for core.

The way you detemine when you should climb should depend your goals and not just your desires or the weather.

If you fingers hurt from crimping, take a week off crimping. If the hurt from pockets or lockoff training or campusing take a week off from those.

In general, I believe that climbing every other day is ideal with two day breaks when your get feeling especially run down or before a comp or when your sure that if you had just a bit more you could send your project. I believe that even though you would have more power by taking two days off each time, you will get stronger in the long run through a cumilative effect. by climbing more your technique and movement will get better due simply to more practice.

If you training power, every other day is fine, but it should be low reps and sets. You must be at your most powerful to gain power from power training. Which requires rest and low reps sets.

Anyways, your goal should be to set up a reflexive schedule based on how you body feels that doesn't have any sort of training at your power limit that repeats itself more than weekly.

Climb open handed, meaning, no crimping at all, more often than not. Even if it means climbing a lower grade because your open handing crimps. This point is important because it's missed or unknown to most. It's counterintuitive. Why would anybody open hand a crimp that feels more secure when crimping? Why would you open hand a crimp when you can climb a higher grade RIGHT NOW if you crimp it? Crimps and monos by far cause more climbing injuries than anything. Injuries are the biggest thing that will hold one back from progress. Muscles can always get stronger, whether we believe it in our own minds or not. However, if your always taking time off from injuries and losing practice, momentum and having to fight your way back to where your were for months or years, your progress over the next ten years will be much slower.


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