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light and comfy alpine pack to lead with
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fnfolen


Jul 20, 2011, 8:30 AM
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light and comfy alpine pack to lead with
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I'm starting to do some easier (up to 5.8), half to full day multipitch alpine climbing, typically 3-5 pitches.

Looking for a lightweight pack that I can toss the essentials in including water, and comfortably lead with. Some of the routes in my area do involve chimney climbs, so it has to survive those.

Any favorite packs come to mind for this type of application?

Been looking at these

Mammut neon light
http://www.mammut.ch/...3_12/Neon+Light.html
Marmot Kompressor Plus
http://marmot.com/...ring_2011?pit=116,71
BD Speed 30 nice but a bit heavy
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...packs/speed-30-pack/

I think I'd prefer minimal or removable waist belt so it won't interefere with the climbing harness. I do like decent shoulder straps, I can't stand packs that bite into your shoulders after just a few minutes.

I'd also be curious to know for routes of this type would most of you just lead without a pack and then haul it up with a haul line? The routes I'm looking at are alpine, so there's more loose rock and they aren't always totally vertical. I think if I try to haul the bag could get caught up or knock rock onto the second.

thanks


sungam


Jul 20, 2011, 9:43 AM
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Re: [fnfolen] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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http://www.cilogear.com, in my opinion, makes the best packs around.


rangerrob


Jul 21, 2011, 1:57 PM
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Re: [sungam] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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Camelbacks are pretty perfect for what you are talking about. No need for a regular pack unless you're bivying. Also most people will wind up hanging their pack from their harness while full on chimneying.


mr_rogers


Jul 21, 2011, 2:30 PM
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Re: [fnfolen] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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What size pack are you looking for? The packs you've listed range from 12L to 30L in volume. Do you want a light leader's pack (12-20L) or something that can carry the rope and the rack on the approach?

This review might help.
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/...bing-Daypack-Reviews


Partner rgold


Jul 21, 2011, 2:32 PM
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Re: [fnfolen] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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Petzl Bug has been my choice since my BD Bullet Pack died. Good capacity for a "leader pack" (18L), padded back, stowable waist belt, rides high, compressible for smaller loads so works fine as a hydration pack, extremely well-thought-out features (including some Petzl doesn't document), not made of tissue paper.

http://www.petzl.com/...gs/climbing-pack/bug

For long rock climbs in moderate climates, this pack works as the only pack the team carries. For the short alpine routes you are describing, I think it would work the same way; you probably don't need two packs, but of course that's always an option if the gear is bulky.

Hauling a pack is a last resort, and really isn't an option on broken and/or low-angle terrain. On a route with chimneys, the pack can be rigged with a tether so the climber can quickly take it off and climb with it hanging from their harness.


(This post was edited by rgold on Jul 21, 2011, 2:45 PM)


kachoong


Jul 21, 2011, 2:42 PM
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For long days I actually use a snowboarding bladder-compatible pack. It's an 18L Ortovox Powder Rider. Comfortably fits a 3L bladder, rain shell and food, plus more if needed. I've even managed to stuff running shoes in it when needed. It's very waterproof, the waist belt stays high, above my harness and out of the way. Shorter days of multipitch I use a Northface 1.5L Enduro Boa.


fnfolen


Jul 21, 2011, 8:58 PM
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Re: [mr_rogers] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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mr_rogers wrote:

What size pack are you looking for? The packs you've listed range from 12L to 30L in volume. Do you want a light leader's pack (12-20L) or something that can carry the rope and the rack on the approach?

This review might help.
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/...bing-Daypack-Reviews

Yah more leaders pack, great link, thanks!


fnfolen


Jul 21, 2011, 9:01 PM
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Re: [rgold] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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rgold wrote:
Petzl Bug has been my choice since my BD Bullet Pack died. Good capacity for a "leader pack" (18L), padded back, stowable waist belt, rides high, compressible for smaller loads so works fine as a hydration pack, extremely well-thought-out features (including some Petzl doesn't document), not made of tissue paper.

http://www.petzl.com/...gs/climbing-pack/bug

For long rock climbs in moderate climates, this pack works as the only pack the team carries. For the short alpine routes you are describing, I think it would work the same way; you probably don't need two packs, but of course that's always an option if the gear is bulky.

Hauling a pack is a last resort, and really isn't an option on broken and/or low-angle terrain. On a route with chimneys, the pack can be rigged with a tether so the climber can quickly take it off and climb with it hanging from their harness.

thanks that seems very ideal, and I checked out the bullet it's also pretty ideal though I wish it had an ice axe loop.

I think I'll get the Bug as an alternate pack and maybe one of the other light ones.

Appreciate the comments re practicality of hauling and that you can hang from a tether as you go up a chimney, hadn't thought of that.


(This post was edited by fnfolen on Jul 21, 2011, 9:04 PM)


fnfolen


Jul 21, 2011, 9:03 PM
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Re: [sungam] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
http://www.cilogear.com, in my opinion, makes the best packs around.


hadn't heard of 'em, they seemed a bit garbage sack with straps at first glance. Looked more they do get tons of praise, I may pick up the 20L to try

http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/...lo-Gear-20L-Worksack

thank you


sp115


Jul 22, 2011, 4:39 AM
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I have a Kompressor Plus. It's light, perfectly sized for fair-weather trad (shoes, jacket, lunch, headlamp, etc.), or, surprisingly, it will swallow an entire 60M rope. It carries well if you don't overload it and has a slot for a hydration pack.

It does have one flaw however: the rip stop material it's made of is not very durable. One week of use in Red Rock and it had two holes. Both patched easily, but still...


Partner hosh


Jul 27, 2011, 10:09 AM
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Re: [fnfolen] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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I'm astounded that cilogear didn't get more mention. I used to have a bunch of Arc'teryx and BD packs, but ended selling all of them and replacing with cilogear. IMHO, the best packs around.

Also worth note, if you look closely at some of the Patagonia catalogues, the professional climbers pictured, who can get all the free bags they want from patagonia (or, really any company they ask nicely of), you'll see that they often are using cilogear bags. Keep in mind that Patagonia must know that the pictures are of bags that are NOT their own, yet the run the images in their catalogue anyway...


gimmeslack


Jul 27, 2011, 4:20 PM
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Cold Cold World


daneburns


Aug 2, 2011, 4:45 AM
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Cold Cold World and the new guys, Blue Ice.

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2011/07/blue-ice-new-warthog-alpine-pack.html


adeptus


Aug 27, 2011, 1:36 AM
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chasegru


Sep 14, 2011, 2:36 PM
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REI flash pack- simple, cheap, and light


tolman_paul


Sep 14, 2011, 5:04 PM
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The only thing worse then climbing with a pack, is hauling one. Not only do you have the added pain of hauling and risk of dislodging rocks or getting it stuck, but you have to carry the added weight of a haul line.

Honestly I'd say on a 3-5 pitch climb, leave the pack at the base and clip your approach shoes to your harness.


rock_fencer


Sep 14, 2011, 7:31 PM
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Re: [rgold] light and comfy alpine pack to lead with [In reply to]
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the petzl bug is an ok pack. It has not held up particularly well in my opinion. I have hauled it up 2 pitches and the fabric tore where the side compression straps are connected. I also find the shoulder straps a tad wide and they tweak my left shoulder after a long day.

However it does compress well, and carries loads well. Like all packs try them on.

T


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