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JoeHamilton


Jul 21, 2011, 3:23 AM
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Im comeing back to climbing after a brain injury in 2007 . Im okay with speach and motor skills .(dont want to scare people) So, What constitutes a BEGINNER .Is it TIME ? Is climbing leval ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ? I ask in part for my own curiosity and as I read through threads I see people say they are not beginners based on time and leval. I am haveing trouble tryin to explain this in the rite way . I guess it is kinda like this ,I can top rope around 5.12-13 after being back for two months ,I led a 5.9 sport route in rumnney two weeks ago. My first time in a gym takeing a begginner course like 11 years ago I top roped a 5.10 and didnt think it was a big deal in fact it was kinda hard but felt good. i guess I kinda answeard my own question and might just be looking to start a new conversation and have my ass handed to me ,lol. So really though is it your numbers or your time of experience ? Im just happy to be back climbing at a leval I can have fun with if the grades go up they do if at 40 years old they stay wher they are thats cool too...


Speed4TheNeed


Jul 21, 2011, 3:27 AM
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I'm a beginner because I'm new and I suck.

If 5 years from now I still suck, you can bet your arse I'll still be saying I'm a beginner.


JoeHamilton


Jul 21, 2011, 3:40 AM
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lol thanx speed . I think thats part of wher I am going with this in my mind. We seem to be an obsessive breed always wanting to be better be stronger be at the next leval. So if we are in a sport that involves continued growth, arent we all always begnners in a sense .


Learner


Jul 21, 2011, 3:56 AM
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JoeHamilton wrote:
What constitutes a BEGINNER? Is it TIME? Is climbing level ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ?
I consider your status as a climber to be an indicator of, and determined by, your climbing level. It is a label for how hard you climb. If you climb...

5.8 and lower = BEGINNER
5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE
5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED
5.13c on up = EXPERT

In other words, it is a level at which you are at. If you climbed 5.10's from day 1, you were never at the beginner level. You climbed a higher level than that since the day you started.


Speed4TheNeed


Jul 21, 2011, 4:00 AM
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I suppose I'm intermediate and I suck, then. ;)


Learner


Jul 21, 2011, 4:08 AM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote:
I suppose I'm intermediate and I suck, then. ;)
Being in the intermediate range doesn't mean you suck, it means you're pretty good. This is the problem with status labels like these: the ranges are too vague. If you want to tell someone where you're at as a climber, tell them what grade you can send.


(This post was edited by Learner on Jul 21, 2011, 4:09 AM)


moose_droppings


Jul 21, 2011, 4:23 AM
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JoeHamilton wrote:
Im comeing back to climbing after a brain injury in 2007 . Im okay with speach and motor skills .(dont want to scare people) So, What constitutes a BEGINNER .Is it TIME ? Is climbing leval ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ? I ask in part for my own curiosity and as I read through threads I see people say they are not beginners based on time and leval. I am haveing trouble tryin to explain this in the rite way . I guess it is kinda like this ,I can top rope around 5.12-13 after being back for two months ,I led a 5.9 sport route in rumnney two weeks ago. My first time in a gym takeing a begginner course like 11 years ago I top roped a 5.10 and didnt think it was a big deal in fact it was kinda hard but felt good. i guess I kinda answeard my own question and might just be looking to start a new conversation and have my ass handed to me ,lol. So really though is it your numbers or your time of experience ? Im just happy to be back climbing at a leval I can have fun with if the grades go up they do if at 40 years old they stay wher they are thats cool too...

It's what you've learned and retained from your time and experience.

Numbers carry less weight IMO.


Speed4TheNeed


Jul 21, 2011, 4:28 AM
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Learner wrote:
Speed4TheNeed wrote:
I suppose I'm intermediate and I suck, then. ;)
Being in the intermediate range doesn't mean you suck, it means you're pretty good. This is the problem with status labels like these: the ranges are too vague. If you want to tell someone where you're at as a climber, tell them what grade you can send.

I consider myself to be level-headed. I don't think I am the next phenom (neither would anyone else lol), but I am very athletic and can flail my technique-less body up 5.9+'s & 5.10's after about a month (subjective ratings...can't do all 5.9's I've encountered much less all the 5.10's).

Not sure how the rest of you were, but I walked into the climbing gym, thought "this should be easy." Did the warmup wall/belay crash course & thought "this is going to be even easier than I thought!" Then, I found out not all routes are jugged and apparently the generic strength gym doesn't exactly work on your finger strength.

...One thing that I found humbling almost immediately is that raw power doesn't mean jack if you can't hold onto the darn grip in the first place.


macblaze


Jul 21, 2011, 4:29 AM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote:
I'm a beginner because I'm new and I suck.

If 5 years from now I still suck, you can bet your arse I'll still be saying I'm a beginner.

If you define suck by can't climb over 5.x then I am going to guess that a lot of people will disagree with you. If I reach 60 and can only pull down 5.9 after 30 years of climbing, I don't suppose I will consider myself a beginner.

Define beginner on a more knowledge-based basis: how many knots do you know? What kind of rescue scenarios are you competent in? How many types of rock are familiar with? etc. etc. etc.


jt512


Jul 21, 2011, 4:32 AM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote:
[R]aw power doesn't mean jack if you can't hold onto the darn grip in the first place.

If you think that the grips are a problem, wait till you start leading and have to clip the hooks.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jul 21, 2011, 4:33 AM)


Learner


Jul 21, 2011, 4:51 AM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote:
Learner wrote:
Speed4TheNeed wrote:
I suppose I'm intermediate and I suck, then. ;)
Being in the intermediate range doesn't mean you suck, it means you're pretty good. This is the problem with status labels like these: the ranges are too vague. If you want to tell someone where you're at as a climber, tell them what grade you can send.

I consider myself to be level-headed. I don't think I am the next phenom (neither would anyone else lol), but I am very athletic and can flail my technique-less body up 5.9+'s & 5.10's after about a month (subjective ratings...can't do all 5.9's I've encountered much less all the 5.10's).
You're sending 5.10's after climbing for one month and you think you suck? I've never seen anyone do that well, actually, and I've seen plenty of climbers begin climbing. I suppose having respect for how much work it takes to climb higher grades is something you'll have to learn in time. You're doing outstanding. This is one of the most challenging and skillful activities in the world.


Speed4TheNeed


Jul 21, 2011, 4:58 AM
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macblaze wrote:

If you define suck by can't climb over 5.x then I am going to guess that a lot of people will disagree with you. If I reach 60 and can only pull down 5.9 after 30 years of climbing, I don't suppose I will consider myself a beginner.

Define beginner on a more knowledge-based basis: how many knots do you know? What kind of rescue scenarios are you competent in? How many types of rock are familiar with? etc. etc. etc.

I can agree with that to an extent. On the other hand, I'm not sure how many people would be seeking advice from me if I can only do 5.9's. Maybe if I was doing 5.9's at 60..but at my current age I shall keep my mouth shut if I cannot progress any further.

jt512 wrote:

If you think that the grips are a problem, wait till you start leading and have to clip the hooks.

Jay

I don't suppose hooks are kind to quickdraw flailing climbers, are they? ;) I'm scheduled to take a leading class coming up way too quickly on some of the easier routes. I'm sure that I will build up finger strength eventually but for now I can't imagine securely placing a draw perched on some crimp. Maybe it's because I'm not the lighest guy (think John Long, not Chris Sharma), but those things give me hell.


Speed4TheNeed


Jul 21, 2011, 5:10 AM
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Learner wrote:
You're sending 5.10's after climbing for one month and you think you suck? I've never seen anyone do that well, actually, and I've seen plenty of climbers begin climbing. I suppose having respect for how much work it takes to climb higher grades is something you'll have to learn in time. You're doing outstanding. This is one of the most challenging and skillful activities in the world.

I appreciate that, but trust me when I say it's not the prettiest thing in the world and we're also talking about subjective gym climbing ratings. I've been outdoors a grand total of once and did manage to send a 5.9 at Horseshoe.

If I had to guess, it's more the athleticism rather than the technique that has allowed me to do 5.9s and the few 5.10s. As I've said--it's not the prettiest thing. I do love it, though, and am slowly picking up a few things here & there. Thanks to this site I've got a couple John Long books and a knot book under my belt and am currently halfway through Self Coached Climber which I have seen you as well as others push to other newbie climbers.

I'm pretty competitive so we shall see how far I can go. I don't expect to break news and I sure as hell am not making a "can I be sponsored" thread, but I would like to be able to do 5.12 within a few years. That is the goal for now of which I'm sure I will never be satisfied even if I happen to attain it.

Again, thank you.


Learner


Jul 21, 2011, 5:32 AM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote:
I appreciate that, but trust me when I say it's not the prettiest thing in the world...
It's very good that you're focusing on aesthetics of movement. Don't be a number chaser--this is a thing of beauty.


Speed4TheNeed


Jul 21, 2011, 6:10 AM
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Learner wrote:
Speed4TheNeed wrote:
I appreciate that, but trust me when I say it's not the prettiest thing in the world...
It's very good that you're focusing on aesthetics of movement. Don't be a number chaser--this is a thing of beauty.

I have to admit I am a number chaser of sorts. It's not so much the numbers as it is realizing I can use a hold or a technique I have not used before..but at the same time the higher numbers usually demand that or risk complete failure on the route...while on an easier route I can get away with poorer technique and/or brute force. It is definitely a learning experience.

One thing I have EASILY noticed is climbers in much less "shape" than me climb a route much more easily. I tend to do a lot of watching of climbers I consider better than me (a large amount as of now...even in this state). Fluidity of movement is one thing that I notice that separates the novice from the experienced so for now I'm concentrating on silent feet, straight arms, and recognizing where my center of gravity lies. Pretty novice probably, but hey, that's what I am. Call it like I see it.


JoeHamilton


Jul 21, 2011, 2:46 PM
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wow turned into a good thread. Thanx folks. I will add to speed ,keep it up, foot work is so much better then brut strength. Alot of my gym time is not on top rope or even bouldering some days . Ill take some time to traverse the whole gym (or atleast try) there isnt any tape color codes,and you dont have much time to plan out the problem. the holds change alot one minute your on nice open jugs then a large stretch of feet to a crimp or two ,back to something bomber. In the gym I train at the lead towers even have some low ceilings to it make for a nice overhang in the traverse.I agree so much with the statement of KNOWLEDGE makeing for wher the status could be ,thanx again . Hope this continues a little more and helps others aswell .


sungam


Jul 21, 2011, 3:20 PM
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Learner wrote:
5.8 and lower = BEGINNER
5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE
5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED
5.13c on up = EXPERT
Bitch please.

I have met a .13 climber (well, so he said. I'm not sure rodeoclipping your way up black gold for two hours counts as sending) who didn't know what the hell he was about, and I've climbed with numerous 5.10 climbers who know way the shit more about climbing then most other climbers I've met.

"Beginner" Definitely implies not knowing what you are doing. This is completely different from being fat and weak. Both can stop you from sending .11, but just cuz you're fat and weak doesn't mean you are a beginner.

EDIT: I CT'ed.


(This post was edited by sungam on Jul 21, 2011, 3:22 PM)


sungam


Jul 21, 2011, 3:36 PM
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Speed4TheNeed wrote:
I'm not the lighest guy
You're almost certainly not the heaviest, either.


dynosore


Jul 21, 2011, 3:44 PM
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Learner wrote:
JoeHamilton wrote:
What constitutes a BEGINNER? Is it TIME? Is climbing level ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ?
I consider your status as a climber to be an indicator of, and determined by, your climbing level. It is a label for how hard you climb. If you climb...

5.8 and lower = BEGINNER
5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE
5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED
5.13c on up = EXPERT

In other words, it is a level at which you are at. If you climbed 5.10's from day 1, you were never at the beginner level. You climbed a higher level than that since the day you started.

Yes, because all the "advanced" gym climbers dropping each other outdoors is proof that grades are all that matters.


jo247


Jul 21, 2011, 3:50 PM
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In reply to:
5.8 and lower = BEGINNER
5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE
5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED
5.13c on up = EXPERT

IMO, it depends. Top roping 11c-13b in gym is something. But leading 11c-13b TRAD, in Yosemite, is a whole new thing.

Based on that, top roping 11c-13b in a gym almost makes you look like a noob compared to someone able to lead 11c-13b RX trad in Yosemite.

Just sayin'.


bearbreeder


Jul 21, 2011, 4:22 PM
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does it really matter ....

i doubt fred beckly can lead 12s these days ... but no one in their right mind will call him anything less than expert ...

its beginners or other such gym gumbays that usually worry about "status"

most people ive met who climbed a lot dont really gives a fuzzy bears azz ...

all that matters is that you have fun, climb as hard as you can, dont puff yrself up, and let others do their own thang

EVERYONE is a beginner at something ... just because you are an "expert" and can boulder sick problems, doesnt mean you have the technical skills needed for a big multipitch ... and vice versa
Tongue


saint_john


Jul 21, 2011, 4:22 PM
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If you have to ask on RC.com whether or not you're a beginner, then you are in fact a beginner.


jacques


Jul 21, 2011, 4:34 PM
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JoeHamilton wrote:
So, What constitutes a BEGINNER .Is it TIME ? Is climbing leval ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ? I ask in part for my own curiosity and as I read through threads I see people say they are not beginners based on time and leval.

In the old time, beginer means some think. Actually, it is a little humiliating because some people can climb at 5.6 level an enjoy it without wanting to be intermediate.

Beginer was; three point of contact. A slab where two arm hold your stability and one feet your weight. To be a beginer, you have to move in balance: transfering the weight of your body from one feet to the other. Or it can be a move where you use two hand to hold your body weight and one feet, moving one arm or feet at a time.

Intermediate was: two point of contact. a dulfer is one of these move where your feet is in contact with the rock and your hand pull on the other direction. It can also be a move of beginer with smaller hold or a move where you need more power to pull over after a rest.

advance was the same as intermediate. Except that a hole is missing and you need to use your strenght to pull over.

expert and when you use one hold like in an overhang or many small hold togheter as one good hold. You body make a counterbalance.

for example, imagine you climb a stairs. If you take each side of the ramp with your hand and move one feet or arm at a time: it is beginer.
If you climb alternatively with one feet pushing and one arm pulling simultaneously: it is intermediate
If you climb two step at a time or don't use the ramp with your right hand, it is advance and if you climb the stair on one feet...staying in balance all the time, it is expert.


johnwesely


Jul 21, 2011, 4:42 PM
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jo247 wrote:
In reply to:
5.8 and lower = BEGINNER
5.9-5.11b = INTERMEDIATE
5.11c-5.13b = ADVANCED
5.13c on up = EXPERT

IMO, it depends. Top roping 11c-13b in gym is something. But leading 11c-13b TRAD, in Yosemite, is a whole new thing.

Based on that, top roping 11c-13b in a gym almost makes you look like a noob compared to someone able to lead 11c-13b RX trad in Yosemite.

Just sayin'.

Not to mention that it is laughable to consider 11c and 13b in the same league anywhere.


Kartessa


Jul 21, 2011, 5:14 PM
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jacques wrote:
JoeHamilton wrote:
So, What constitutes a BEGINNER .Is it TIME ? Is climbing leval ? Is it how many beers you can drink or friends you have ? I ask in part for my own curiosity and as I read through threads I see people say they are not beginners based on time and leval.

In the old time, beginer means some think. Actually, it is a little humiliating because some people can climb at 5.6 level an enjoy it without wanting to be intermediate.

Beginer was; three point of contact. A slab where two arm hold your stability and one feet your weight. To be a beginer, you have to move in balance: transfering the weight of your body from one feet to the other. Or it can be a move where you use two hand to hold your body weight and one feet, moving one arm or feet at a time.

Intermediate was: two point of contact. a dulfer is one of these move where your feet is in contact with the rock and your hand pull on the other direction. It can also be a move of beginer with smaller hold or a move where you need more power to pull over after a rest.

advance was the same as intermediate. Except that a hole is missing and you need to use your strenght to pull over.

expert and when you use one hold like in an overhang or many small hold togheter as one good hold. You body make a counterbalance.

for example, imagine you climb a stairs. If you take each side of the ramp with your hand and move one feet or arm at a time: it is beginer.
If you climb alternatively with one feet pushing and one arm pulling simultaneously: it is intermediate
If you climb two step at a time or don't use the ramp with your right hand, it is advance and if you climb the stair on one feet...staying in balance all the time, it is expert.

Qu'est-ce que fuck?

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