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muddyv8
Jul 19, 2011, 8:33 AM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2011
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I've been climbing for about 4 months now and can now send most indoor/outdoor v4s within a handful of attempts. I know there is injury risk from stressing tendons too fast and too soon (via hangboards/campus boards, etc), but is there also the same risk from working problems? I am not relying solely on my finger/forearm/tendon strength because these are problems and necessitate the proper footwork and technique that supplement strength. However, is there a similar amount of risk to a n00b hangboarding or campusing if I increase the difficulty (and therefore, finger/forearm/tendon strength required) of the problems that I try? I am now trying to workout the sequences for v5s and v6s, but if I can only complete a few moves due to a lack of strength is this akin to flailing on the campus board? I know there must be some risk of injury, but I want to make sure it's nothing comparable to the risk posed if someone in my situation were to start campus boarding already. I'm really competitive and want to try harder and harder problems, but obviously don't want to get injured.
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dan2see
Jul 19, 2011, 12:56 PM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
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If those numbers (V5 and V6) really are you goals, if that's where you set your bar, then you should be able to manage a longer, slower, progress. Or you could try climbing for the fun. The activity is a form of recreation. "Fun" changes your perspective, alters your goals, and makes life easier. Uhh... what's that word "obviously" refer to?
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superchuffer
Jul 19, 2011, 1:17 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2011
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wear a beanie, it protects you from all injuries. and since you are competitive, yell 'you suck' at anyone on your proj bra!
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camhead
Jul 19, 2011, 2:21 PM
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muddyv8 wrote: I am now trying to workout the sequences for v5s and v6s, but if I can only complete a few moves due to a lack of strength is this akin to flailing on the campus board? I know there must be some risk of injury, but I want to make sure it's nothing comparable to the risk posed if someone in my situation were to start campus boarding already. You're asking if it is as easy to injure yourself on a gym problem as on a campus board? It depends on the type of problem you are working, but yes. If the problem has a weird and/or tweaky pull with bad body positioning, you may be more likely to injure yourself. Often on problems, you'll have the mental motivation to send, and wind up doing something stupid and injuring yourself even more than on a campus board. Pick your projects wisely, especially if you have shitty route setters. Climb static, climb with your feet, climb slopers, climb open-handed, blablabla. Consider doing more hangboard exercises than campus board stuff.
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muddyv8
Jul 23, 2011, 9:12 AM
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Reaching a specific numerical grade is not my goal. My goal is to be able to do harder and harder problems. I want to push myself to be able to send the most difficult moves - this is fun for me. I enjoy problems that are easier for me, however, I find more pleasure in doing problems that I have to struggle to complete. Working out the sequences to v5s and v6s is a means to improving my skill so that I can climb more difficulty problems. I guess I meant to say that I'm competitive with myself and I enjoy pushing myself to continually improve.
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muddyv8
Jul 23, 2011, 9:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2011
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Ok, thanks for the advice. I heard that generally, one should wait at least a year until starting to train with the campus board. Is there a suggested experience level or whatnot to reach before hangboarding? Do the tendons need as much time to strengthen for hanging?
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