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Tendon pull or pulley tear?
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Hooky


Aug 1, 2011, 12:25 AM
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Registered: Jan 6, 2009
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Tendon pull or pulley tear?
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I hoped I would never post in this forum but the day has come...

I have a pain in my ring finger, difficult to locate exactly but probably the segment nearest to the palm and the pain kind of extends down to the palm a little. I can move the finger freely, I can painlessly do the typical forearm stretch every climber does before climbing. The finger doesn't hurt when imitating full crimp grip but hurts a lot when imitating open hand crimp, even with very small applied force. I am 90% sure it was some to or three finger pocket (->open hand) that hurt me.

Does this look like a tendon pull/tear or pulley injury? In either case, for how long should I cease to climb? Thanks for any info.


cmiller12


Aug 1, 2011, 4:19 AM
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Re: [Hooky] Tendon pull or pulley tear? [In reply to]
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Yes, you do.

I pulled a tendon in the same finger about 3 weeks ago. Tried to climb a couple time, but that was bad (don't be like me). Then I took two weeks off. At that point. I went with the wait until and it feels better then wait a few more days method. I started climbing on it again, with it taped (not buddy taped, that doesn't seem to help at all), only a day ago. I'm sticking to easy stuff and going light on it. In other words, nothing with any crimpers or slopers on it. It held up ok and didn't hurt during but was a little sore after, which passed after a couple hours. It definitely felt weaker while climbing too. I plan on sticking to limited, light climbing for the next few weeks to a month.

As a frame of reference: I'm a 22 year old female who's been climbing for a little over a year and a half. Healing time will vary with age and amount of time climbing. Try to focus on good nutrition and lots of sleep in the coming weeks to promote good healing.

Hope this was helpful!


tH1e-swiN1e


Aug 5, 2011, 7:00 AM
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Re: [cmiller12] Tendon pull or pulley tear? [In reply to]
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You need to tape it every time you climb from here on out. Ive snapped tendons and injured my volar plate on my middle finger of both hands. Lucky for me surgery wasnt needed but my specialist said even after something like that heals it is very likely it will happen again, especially if you continue to climb. Just like any other injury, protect the area and give it strength. I personally like taping now because it makes my fingers feel stronger.


Partner cracklover


Sep 12, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Re: [Hooky] Tendon pull or pulley tear? [In reply to]
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Hooky wrote:
I hoped I would never post in this forum but the day has come...

I have a pain in my ring finger, difficult to locate exactly but probably the segment nearest to the palm and the pain kind of extends down to the palm a little. I can move the finger freely, I can painlessly do the typical forearm stretch every climber does before climbing. The finger doesn't hurt when imitating full crimp grip but hurts a lot when imitating open hand crimp, even with very small applied force. I am 90% sure it was some to or three finger pocket (->open hand) that hurt me.

Does this look like a tendon pull/tear or pulley injury? In either case, for how long should I cease to climb? Thanks for any info.

Based on the above, it sounds more like a tendon injury than a pulley injury. Beyond that, I hesitate to give any advice, as I am neither a medical professional, nor do I have any direct personal experience with serious finger tendon injuries.

If I were you, I'd see a doctor ASAP.

Cheers,

GO


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