Fingers don't have muscles in them . . . Your tendons can be trained to withstand higher forces, but they themselves won't help you pull harder.

So crimpy bouldering that doesn't burn out my forearms is a waste of time if I'm just looking to train?

[T]endons can and do store energy that contributes to force production.

Fingers don't have muscles in them . . . Your tendons can be trained to withstand higher forces, but they themselves won't help you pull harder.

Fingers most certainly do have muscles in them.

OP, be patient. It takes a long time to build finger strength, likes months and years.

Okay, now I really need a citation.

Jay

However, it doesn't matter how much finger work i do they never ache like forearms do. I mean the physiology of it suggests that muscle ache when they are repairing and building up. Since fingers never ache am I actually wasting my f'ing time?

Not actual literature, but it describes the concept of tendon stiffness. It is measured in N/m, just like springs.

http://www.sportsinjurybulletin.com/...e-tendon-complex.htm

Finger strength does not take months and years to build. The capability of tendons to handle increased loads, sure, but not the pulling strength of fingers. There are muscles in the hand, but not the fingers. Not sure why you think otherwise on any of these points.

Maybe because I had a basic anatomy class? There are muscles between fingers, and yes, in them. What do you think that meaty stuff is on the underside of your fingers. Geez......

http://www.wheelessonline.com/..._muscles_of_the_hand
There are over a dozen muscles in the hand.

You are also wrong in your assertion that it doesn't take months and even years to build the strength in your hands.

Please stick to what you know.

Yes, there are lots of little muscles in your hand. None of those really have anything to do with "finger strength" as relivent to climbing, though, do they?

And if it took you "months or even years" to see improvements in your finger strength... Well then you train like a moron.

And if it took you "months or even years" to see improvements in your finger strength... Well then you train like a moron.

Hey sungam
Now of course I have seen improvement in my finger strength since I started climbing, but the only training I did for that was... well climb. Twice a week, sometimes three. Now I do not know if that is training like a moron (probably not, as I did see improvement after all!!), but I would like to know what I can do more. Any advice?

(and yeah the reference to moron was a joke )

There are a fair few books on training out there, "The Self Coached Climber" is a very popular one.

How often do you climb? Indoor or out? Do you have easy access to a climbing gym or a convinient and extensive bouldering area?

If you are getting the SCC then it's kinda a waste for me to give you a half-assed rundown on training. So I'll just give you this: warm up, build yourself up to routes at your limit, then try harder ones. Give each burn on each route 110%. Think about your technique, it isn't all in the guns, but try hard.
Consider taking 1 session a week for routes and one for bouldering (if the bouldering area is good).

Well after I read this comment, I decided to order the damn book right away Shipping from the UK so I will have to wait for a bit, but looking forward to the content, as I have seen it mentioned countless times on this site.

What I normally do is warm up on 2 easy routes (5.8-5.9), and then start with routes at the top of my ability. Always try at least 1 or 2 routes that I know I cannot climb out yet. This evening I finally finished a 5.10c that ends with a few meters very strong overhanging route (like 45 degrees or so), where the last pull was too hard for me the last few tries. the 5.11a I tried after that was technically too much of a challenge but is next on my wishlist!

Anyway thanks for your input, quite friendly too for a Scotsman

Ayers Rock in Zoetermeer, 15 minutes from home. Though I do try to visit other gyms too when time allows me.