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Adapting SCC to bouldering, sample schedule and questions
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pyrosis


Aug 6, 2011, 10:46 AM
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Adapting SCC to bouldering, sample schedule and questions
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I am curious how to adapt the concepts taught in the SCC to bouldering specifically. I know there was a thread a while back but I have specific questions. First my sample weekly schedule, designed for myself with the goal of completing my first v9. Keep in mind that I climb outdoors exclusively, I have been climbing ~15 years, and my current best is v8.

Day 1 - work projects to add to pyramid, v6-v9 range
Day 2 - CIR - working towards 15xv5
Day 3 - rest
Day 4 - threshold bouldering, individual moves on v9-v11's
Day 5 - CIR, as above
Day 6+7 rest

Include warmup, movement training, cooldown, and stretching on all climbing days.
Include an easy run and stretching on nonclimbing days.

Questions:

-Is there enough rest given the intensity of the climbing? I am assuming that the threshold session will be quite short.

-I assume I will need to take a week off here and there to let my body recover. How often should this be done? Or, how will I know when it is time?

-Is there any benefit to adding anaerobic training if your goals are only boulder problems?

-Is there any benefit to ARC training for a boulderer?

-Can a modified circuit be used in place of ARC? EG 30xv0 with as little rest as possible

-How much antagonist muscle training and prehabilitation (rotator cuff exercises etc) should be done and how often?

-Skin condition often seems to be the limiting factor in training volume when training on real rock. Are there any good ways to mitigate this?

-Would there be a benefit to periodizing training that does not involve non-climbing apparatus (fingerboard etc)?

Thank you for your feedback.


sungam


Aug 7, 2011, 4:12 AM
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Re: [pyrosis] Adapting SCC to bouldering, sample schedule and questions [In reply to]
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pyrosis wrote:
-Is there any benefit to ARC training for a boulderer?
Niel Gresham states on his guide to SACC training (which is pretty much exactly the same as ARC) that the benefits of ARC include "improved recovery rates whether during exercise (ie: on a 'shake out') or between bouts of exercise (ie: between routes or boulder problems)." which sounds pretty beneficial to me. Rockprodigy said that he used (uses? He said it a while ago) a 40 minute arc session to warm up at the start of training.

"pyrosis wrote:
-Can a modified circuit be used in place of ARC? EG 30xv0 with as little rest as possible
As long as the rest period between the problems is as short as possible this sound like a reasonable ARC circuit. As long as you don't get actually pumped and remain at the lightest of pumps for the duration.30xV0 sounds like 30-60 minutes (assuming 1 to 2 minutes per problem) which is exactly the duration you are looking for in a ARC workout.

*http://www.planetfear.com/...CC_Training_210.html

Re: Skin. What skincare products do you use?


pyrosis


Aug 7, 2011, 10:35 AM
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Re: [sungam] Adapting SCC to bouldering, sample schedule and questions [In reply to]
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Thanks for the reply. I think I will try doing the ARC as a warmdown.. I feel if I actually climbed 30 problems in a warmup it would be too much and would be detrimental to my power later on.

Re: Skin. The only product I use regularly is tape. I have tried climb-on bar in the past and homemade balms, not sure if any of that helped.


sungam


Aug 7, 2011, 10:47 AM
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Re: [pyrosis] Adapting SCC to bouldering, sample schedule and questions [In reply to]
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pyrosis wrote:
Thanks for the reply. I think I will try doing the ARC as a warmdown.. I feel if I actually climbed 30 problems in a warmup it would be too much and would be detrimental to my power later on.

Re: Skin. The only product I use regularly is tape. I have tried climb-on bar in the past and homemade balms, not sure if any of that helped.
If you are going to be burned out after the ARC session then it may be too intense.

I find that climb on/burts bees helps my skin heal much, much faster. Climb on is better but quite a bit more expensive, so unless I my tips really feel like they need it I just use Burt's. I have heard good things about Jtree balm but haven't used it.


pyrosis


Aug 9, 2011, 1:27 AM
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Re: [sungam] Adapting SCC to bouldering, sample schedule and questions [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
If you are going to be burned out after the ARC session then it may be too intense.

I find that climb on/burts bees helps my skin heal much, much faster. Climb on is better but quite a bit more expensive, so unless I my tips really feel like they need it I just use Burt's. I have heard good things about Jtree balm but haven't used it.

Word. Thanks again for the advice.

Anyone else have input? Douglas? You around? (bump)


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