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Diddii
Aug 13, 2011, 11:12 AM
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I just started bouldering/rock climbing at this indoor rock climbing gym and seen some improvements but not that much. In my first session i was able to finish most v0 routes and one v1 problem, then moved into v2 which took 2 sessions to figure out how to do it (what footholds to use etc.)
Now i'm really stuck for the past 3-4 sessions, I can only manage this one v2, the other ones are just too difficult. So my question is should:
a. Keep warming up on those v0 - v1 and then try figure out these other v2 problems.
or
b. keep hitting those problems i'm familiar with and try diffrent footholds. (i can now do this warmup v0 route in 3 moves instead of 5 or 6 which i did first just with a technique i got from a guy gave from the gym)
Climb more or climb harder until i get them?
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Kartessa
Aug 13, 2011, 11:17 AM
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Climb more harder routes
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TheNags
Aug 13, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Both, climbing more, while paying attention to technique, and climbing harder to challenge yourself to use said technique. climb on!
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lena_chita
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Aug 13, 2011, 12:59 PM
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Diddii wrote: I just started bouldering/rock climbing at this indoor rock climbing gym and seen some improvements but not that much. In my first session i was able to finish most v0 routes and one v1 problem, then moved into v2 which took 2 sessions to figure out how to do it (what footholds to use etc.) Now i'm really stuck for the past 3-4 sessions, I can only manage this one v2, the other ones are just too difficult. So my question is should: a. Keep warming up on those v0 - v1 and then try figure out these other v2 problems. or b. keep hitting those problems i'm familiar with and try diffrent footholds. (i can now do this warmup v0 route in 3 moves instead of 5 or 6 which i did first just with a technique i got from a guy gave from the gym) Climb more or climb harder until i get them?
Both.
You want to have some sessions where you work on figuring out hard-for-you problems, and some sessions when you do a high volume of easier climbing, repeating the easier problems you have done already with particular attention on precision, silent hands/feet and general good form.
You won't get better if you don't work through moves that are hard for you, but working on only hard stuff is a good way to get injured.
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Diddii
Aug 13, 2011, 1:18 PM
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lena_chita wrote: Diddii wrote: I just started bouldering/rock climbing at this indoor rock climbing gym and seen some improvements but not that much. In my first session i was able to finish most v0 routes and one v1 problem, then moved into v2 which took 2 sessions to figure out how to do it (what footholds to use etc.) Now i'm really stuck for the past 3-4 sessions, I can only manage this one v2, the other ones are just too difficult. So my question is should: a. Keep warming up on those v0 - v1 and then try figure out these other v2 problems. or b. keep hitting those problems i'm familiar with and try diffrent footholds. (i can now do this warmup v0 route in 3 moves instead of 5 or 6 which i did first just with a technique i got from a guy gave from the gym) Climb more or climb harder until i get them? Both. You want to have some sessions where you work on figuring out hard-for-you problems, and some sessions when you do a high volume of easier climbing, repeating the easier problems you have done already with particular attention on precision, silent hands/feet and general good form. You won't get better if you don't work through moves that are hard for you, but working on only hard stuff is a good way to get injured.
i understand, i have found that when i repeat that v2 it becomes easier everytime
thanks for all the replies guys/girls :)
(This post was edited by Diddii on Aug 13, 2011, 1:19 PM)
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jorgegonzalez
Aug 13, 2011, 1:33 PM
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Ditto to Lena's post. Think of the runner who jumps from two blocks to two miles in the first week. Good way to get hurt. Get some mileage under your belt then step it up.
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Atagrob
Aug 14, 2011, 3:22 PM
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If they offer climbing classes at the gym take them. Climb with other people.
This will accelerate your learning curve. Don't try to reinvent the wheel learn from others.
Climbing gets even more fun with a few skills.
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rangerrob
Aug 14, 2011, 5:11 PM
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There is no such thing as indoor rock climbing gym. And why are you concerned about chasing numbers already? Didn't you just start climbing? How about just focusing on having fun. climbing harder will come when you've climbed for a long time...say 3 months or so....LOL!
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MarcelS
Aug 15, 2011, 12:30 AM
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Myself I climb mostly at the gym, and what I usually do is start with a few warmups (routes below my ability), then mix routes at my ability with routes above my ability. The easy warmup routes are great to improve technique on!
Furthermore: watch others a lot. You would be amazed how much you can learn by watching other climbers. Eventually it made me skip a technique training, as I learned by watching what others do. Both at problems I could not solve yet, but also on routes I do manage. By using what I see, those routes become much easier. Watch their footwork, and how they move their body from one position onto the next.
Finally: Just have fun! However I do know the feeling of making it one grade up, I do have fun at the easier routes as well. And I noticed that once you go to the rocks, the grades hardly matter: even a 5.6 can be tons of fun!!
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ceebo
Aug 16, 2011, 7:59 AM
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You can do it all in 1 session if you prefere the mix up. Sometimes i will warm up and then spend around an hour on a climb that is max limit. With good rests you should get in at least 6 solid attempts. Once you start falling at points you could previusly climb on the route/problem your more or less done for the hard climbing. I usualy then take a good 20-30 min rest and then go for volume of easier problems or routes. In an hour you should get in around 15 easy problems if you limit yourself to around a min or 2 rest between climbs. If you can get 20+ thats very good.
But what ever you do, do not climb for more than that, spend an hour on the hard route with good rests, then a solid hour on the volume. Time your phases so that in totall you should be at the gym for no more than 3 hours, including the 30min rest and ofc set up time.
(This post was edited by ceebo on Aug 16, 2011, 8:01 AM)
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bkb0000
Aug 19, 2011, 4:36 PM
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if you climb V2s until they're "easy," you should be able to climb V3s barely. then climb V3s until they're "easy," then climb a V4 barely. etc. thats how i do it.. works.
like has been said, however- you have to be developing technique. as you're progressing through these lower grades, most of your "improving" will be in the form of developing climbing strength. and strength will get you up into the intermediate grades- but you'll still just be pulling through the problems, not really mastering them. so focus on your hips and feet- always try to attack the crux moves from different positions. as you've probably figured out, something as simple as which direction your toe is pointed WILL, and more frequently as you get better, make ALL the difference between sailing through a sequence and just pumping out and dropping.
i have whole days that i'll devote to climbing low grades, but doing so with perfection. today's my technique day- so i'll climb grades 2 or 3 lower than my capability, and climb the same ones over and over until my technique is perfect. no chalk, no sweat, no grunting- just twisting and flowing, using more feet than hands. helps to ingrain it into your muscle memory for when you find yourself pulling through hard sequences on harder grades- "oh yea, rather than pump myself out on this shit, i should be finding ways to get my weight on my feet or hanging on my shoulders..."
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socalclimber
Aug 19, 2011, 6:15 PM
Post #12 of 12
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Diddii wrote: I just started bouldering/rock climbing at this indoor rock climbing gym and seen some improvements but not that much. In my first session i was able to finish most v0 routes and one v1 problem, then moved into v2 which took 2 sessions to figure out how to do it (what footholds to use etc.) Now i'm really stuck for the past 3-4 sessions, I can only manage this one v2, the other ones are just too difficult. So my question is should: a. Keep warming up on those v0 - v1 and then try figure out these other v2 problems. or b. keep hitting those problems i'm familiar with and try diffrent footholds. (i can now do this warmup v0 route in 3 moves instead of 5 or 6 which i did first just with a technique i got from a guy gave from the gym) Climb more or climb harder until i get them?
Other than rangerbob you are getting nothing but bad advice. Forget the numbers, just climb as much as you can. Get as much mileage behind you as possible. There is so much more to climbing than the grades.
Anyone telling you different is a moron.
Pitches, pitches, pitches. Mileage, mileage, mileage. That's where you will get the most bang for your buck in the long term.
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