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JustinBrown


Aug 16, 2011, 9:39 AM
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Bolting Routes
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Hey all,

Have a crag right by my house that is all set up for TR right now. There are two routes that are currently bolted, I would like to bolt more though. Any advice you can give about placing bolts and the how to's would be great.

Thanks


JoeHamilton


Aug 16, 2011, 9:43 AM
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Re: [JustinBrown] Bolting Routes [In reply to]
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JustinBrown wrote:
Hey all,

Have a crag right by my house that is all set up for TR right now. There are two routes that are currently bolted, I would like to bolt more though. Any advice you can give about placing bolts and the how to's would be great.

Thanks



Find some who has done it many times before.


marc801


Aug 16, 2011, 10:20 AM
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JustinBrown wrote:
Hey all,

Have a crag right by my house that is all set up for TR right now. There are two routes that are currently bolted, I would like to bolt more though. Any advice you can give about placing bolts and the how to's would be great.

Thanks
Like Joe said, if you don't know what you're doing, learn from someone who does, not the internet. Also, even if it has bolts on it, is it cool with the landowner to add more? What are the local ethics regarding bolted lines? What does the local climbing community think?


JustinBrown


Aug 16, 2011, 10:32 AM
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It is a local crag of a community of about 6000 people. Only a few people know about it and it is located on public land (BLM). It is about 30 min north of smith rock OR and a fun little place to go to avoid the masses of people smith draws. I don't mind TR-ing for a few routes, I would much rather be leading though. Since it is such a small community how would I go about finding someone to teach me? Maybe one of the climbing stores near Smith?


uni_jim


Aug 16, 2011, 10:47 AM
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lead it on gear.


JustinBrown


Aug 16, 2011, 11:28 AM
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That would be the way to go except there is no place to put gear. I wouldn't be bolting a perfectly good trad route.


olderic


Aug 16, 2011, 12:36 PM
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JustinBrown wrote:
It is a local crag of a community of about 6000 people. Only a few people know about it and it is located on public land (BLM). It is about 30 min north of smith rock OR and a fun little place to go to avoid the masses of people smith draws. I don't mind TR-ing for a few routes, I would much rather be leading though. Since it is such a small community how would I go about finding someone to teach me? Maybe one of the climbing stores near Smith?


What's the BLM have to say?


JustinBrown


Aug 16, 2011, 12:55 PM
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They have no problem with it as long as the area is maintained and doesn't become littered with trash and what not.


potreroed


Aug 16, 2011, 9:09 PM
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Maybe someone at Metolius will help you.


overlord


Aug 16, 2011, 11:21 PM
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JoeHamilton wrote:
JustinBrown wrote:
Hey all,

Have a crag right by my house that is all set up for TR right now. There are two routes that are currently bolted, I would like to bolt more though. Any advice you can give about placing bolts and the how to's would be great.

Thanks



Find some who has done it many times before.

+1


possum2082


Aug 17, 2011, 5:53 AM
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start here:
http://www.muirvalley.com/pdf/BoltingRed17.pdf

+1 finding someone who has done it before

keep in mind this is for the red river gorge


madrasrock


Aug 17, 2011, 7:09 AM
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JustinBrown


Aug 17, 2011, 7:24 AM
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Blank post?


JimTitt


Aug 17, 2011, 11:05 AM
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As useful a contribution as most on the internet!


JustinBrown


Aug 17, 2011, 11:18 AM
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It makes me curious because the user name is the name of the town the crag is in (Madras).


pdx_climber


Aug 18, 2011, 2:32 PM
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Walk in to InClimb or even Metolius' office and tell them you'd like some help learning how to safely place bolts. There are plenty of people out there who will be happy to help.


billcoe_


Aug 19, 2011, 12:14 PM
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JustinBrown wrote:
It is a local crag of a community of about 6000 people. Only a few people know about it and it is located on public land (BLM). It is about 30 min north of smith rock OR and a fun little place to go to avoid the masses of people smith draws. I don't mind TR-ing for a few routes, I would much rather be leading though. Since it is such a small community how would I go about finding someone to teach me? Maybe one of the climbing stores near Smith?
That area is thick with real solid climbers and has been for easily well over 30 years. Given that you appear to be both new to the area and new to climbing, my advice to you without even seeing it is leave it alone for now. Eventually, you'll hook up with some locals, and they will give you the full skinny, and you will either know why there are no bolts, or get an assist to put some in without pissing everyone off.

You're welcome.


July 15th post
JustinBrown wrote:
Hey all,

Just breaking into the world of trad climbing and was wondering what size and brand of cam you would recommend having/ having multiples of. I already have quite a bit of passive protection and would like to start developing a larger selection of cams. Let me know opinions thoughts things to look at/for, pros and cons, anything really!

Thanks.

Metolius is the preferred cam of the local hardmen for obvious reasons. If you show up with some other cam no one will fault you for it. Next time you are walking by the dihedrals area, look up at the overhang on Shoes of the Fishermen. I once belayed one of the better climbers in the state up that when it was rated a tad harder than now and was much closer then to the top of the rating scale. He was using ridged stem Friends and plugged 4 in that overhanging crack every few feet (that was the only cam made at the time). They worked great. When he got down he mentioned to the peanut gallery that had collected that he wished he'd had more. A fella standing nearby says: "Jeff Thomas led that with wired nuts on the FFA, no cams".

<crickets> LOL

Sometimes if all you have is a hammer, everything will look like a nail.

Good luck.


JustinBrown


Aug 19, 2011, 12:59 PM
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Thanks for the advice, I am new to the trad and bolting routes world. Not an expert in sport (not many people are) but am definitely comfortable beyond belief with it. So not really new to climbing, just new to certain areas. Thanks for the good advice though. Since not many people know of this spot it would be hard to piss anyone off, that being said I feel it is a good place to learn how to bolt a route with someone who knows what they are doing of course.


JoeHamilton


Aug 20, 2011, 7:34 AM
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JustinBrown wrote:
Thanks for the advice, I am new to the trad and bolting routes world. Not an expert in sport (not many people are) but am definitely comfortable beyond belief with it. So not really new to climbing, just new to certain areas. Thanks for the good advice though. Since not many people know of this spot it would be hard to piss anyone off, that being said I feel it is a good place to learn how to bolt a route with someone who knows what they are doing of course.



I think what is beeing said is if this spot has bolts in it , It IS IN FACT probabbly more known then you are thinking. The area might just be out of season for locals, wait till fall, and check it out. I think it might be wise to climb there twice a week on diffrent days for about a year. Before drilling holes in the face.


jbrown2


Aug 20, 2011, 11:50 PM
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(Note) Not the SWFC Justin.

I think that previous post is the best advice. Hold off, and climb.


Partner j_ung


Aug 21, 2011, 5:32 AM
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JustinBrown wrote:
Hey all,

Have a crag right by my house that is all set up for TR right now. There are two routes that are currently bolted, I would like to bolt more though. Any advice you can give about placing bolts and the how to's would be great.

Thanks

In addition to the above, don't retrobolt pre-existing routes.


madrasrock


Aug 22, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Justin, are you taking about the willow creek climbing area just west of town? call me we can fill you in on the climbing.
Rick


JustinBrown


Aug 22, 2011, 12:07 PM
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That is the one! I have top roped just about every route in there, fun little area. Could you please PM me your number so I can contact you?


billcoe_


Oct 4, 2011, 4:15 PM
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madrasrock wrote:
Justin, are you taking about the willow creek climbing area just west of town? call me we can fill you in on the climbing.
Rick
How did this work out?


guangzhou


Oct 4, 2011, 9:42 PM
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I am only guessing, but sounds like people knew about it before Justin came along. One of those secret climbing areas or one with access issues. Either way, I think Justin about to get the skinny.


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