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ceebo


Aug 18, 2011, 1:51 PM
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Grading a traverse?
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Wondering if anybody can help me. Theirs a spacific traverse i made at a local crag that is around 25M long. It has around 5 cruxes that are roughly v6/7, most involve climbing out of mini caves. The rest of the climbing is around the V4-5 sort of levels on no more than 10 degree overhanging rock. Do i just simply call this a v6/7 traverse?. That would be roughly 7b in sport yes?.


redonkulus


Aug 18, 2011, 1:55 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Wondering if anybody can help me. Theirs a spacific traverse i made at a local crag that is around 25M long. It has around 5 cruxes that are roughly v6/7, most involve climbing out of mini caves. The rest of the climbing is around the V4-5 sort of levels on no more than 10 degree overhanging rock. Do i just simply call this a v6/7 traverse?. That would be roughly 7b in sport yes?.

5 x V6= V30

At least, that seems to be standard math for many bouldering link-ups these days...


spikeddem


Aug 18, 2011, 1:58 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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Depends on the availability of rests between cruxes.


ceebo


Aug 18, 2011, 2:20 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
Depends on the availability of rests between cruxes.

I didn't think that would be a factor tbh. I hope you were not pulling my leg since im about to explain them ;p.

After the first cave with 2 cruxes spaning say 5m you get a kinde v4 ish rest poistion. Then theirs about 4-5M more climbing with another crux followed by 1M of peak v5 climbing into another kinda v4 rest position. Then you go on to some more peak v5 climbing into the main cave roof crux, after down climbing into the cave you get a shity rest on say 45 degree overhanging around v5 ish kinda holds. Then then heading out of the cave the climbing stays at v5 but gets progressively easier as the rock begins to straighten out for the last 8-10m or so.

I will more likely add more cruxes to the last run out but for now i have enough, and unable to link it all yet so ;p.

Sry, the first crux section has 3 in it. Fail visulisation skills their ;p.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Aug 18, 2011, 2:26 PM)


johnwesely


Aug 18, 2011, 2:22 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Wondering if anybody can help me. Theirs a spacific traverse i made at a local crag that is around 25M long. It has around 5 cruxes that are roughly v6/7, most involve climbing out of mini caves. The rest of the climbing is around the V4-5 sort of levels on no more than 10 degree overhanging rock. Do i just simply call this a v6/7 traverse?. That would be roughly 7b in sport yes?.

Assuming your bouldering grades are like the bouldering grades in the SE, that sounds like a really hard 5.13 or easy .14


flesh


Aug 18, 2011, 3:31 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Wondering if anybody can help me. Theirs a spacific traverse i made at a local crag that is around 25M long. It has around 5 cruxes that are roughly v6/7, most involve climbing out of mini caves. The rest of the climbing is around the V4-5 sort of levels on no more than 10 degree overhanging rock. Do i just simply call this a v6/7 traverse?. That would be roughly 7b in sport yes?.


Broseph, i think your 5 v6-7 cruxes has got to be off.... unless there are almost no hands rests between.... your talking about 5.14.... there's a hard 14a I'm working that's basically two long v9's back to back for example, it's consensus hard 14a.... 30 ft long.

If there's almost no hands rests... close to full recovery it's probably mid 13 if there's not very good rests and there's really 5 v6 sections... it's harder than that.


essay


Aug 18, 2011, 3:57 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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ceebo wrote:
Wondering if anybody can help me. Theirs a spacific traverse i made at a local crag that is around 25M long. It has around 5 cruxes that are roughly v6/7, most involve climbing out of mini caves. The rest of the climbing is around the V4-5 sort of levels on no more than 10 degree overhanging rock. Do i just simply call this a v6/7 traverse?. That would be roughly 7b in sport yes?.


This rant says your cruxes are v6/v7.


essay


Aug 18, 2011, 4:02 PM
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ceebo wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Depends on the availability of rests between cruxes.

I didn't think that would be a factor tbh. I hope you were not pulling my leg since im about to explain them ;p.

After the first cave with 2 cruxes spaning say 5m you get a kinde v4 ish rest poistion. Then theirs about 4-5M more climbing with another crux followed by 1M of peak v5 climbing into another kinda v4 rest position. Then you go on to some more peak v5 climbing into the main cave roof crux, after down climbing into the cave you get a shity rest on say 45 degree overhanging around v5 ish kinda holds. Then then heading out of the cave the climbing stays at v5 but gets progressively easier as the rock begins to straighten out for the last 8-10m or so.

I will more likely add more cruxes to the last run out but for now i have enough, and unable to link it all yet so ;p.

Sry, the first crux section has 3 in it. Fail visulisation skills their ;p.

This rant says your cruxes are v5. It does not say v6 or v7.

That is a huge difference on an endurance climb, so which is it? If you have 5 V6/7 in your route with no great rests, it's gonna at least be a 5.13+, maybe harder.

If you have five v5 in your route it will be a 12+ or 12- BASED ON THE RESTS.

You give people advice and talk down to them all the time, you even say your gonna piss on my head from above me because you are such an awesome climber, but you think that rests on an endurance route have no meaning? WOW. Man, I am gonna remember this rant!


(This post was edited by essay on Aug 18, 2011, 4:03 PM)


ceebo


Aug 18, 2011, 4:13 PM
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Re: [flesh] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
ceebo wrote:
Wondering if anybody can help me. Theirs a spacific traverse i made at a local crag that is around 25M long. It has around 5 cruxes that are roughly v6/7, most involve climbing out of mini caves. The rest of the climbing is around the V4-5 sort of levels on no more than 10 degree overhanging rock. Do i just simply call this a v6/7 traverse?. That would be roughly 7b in sport yes?.


Broseph, i think your 5 v6-7 cruxes has got to be off.... unless there are almost no hands rests between.... your talking about 5.14.... there's a hard 14a I'm working that's basically two long v9's back to back for example, it's consensus hard 14a.... 30 ft long.

If there's almost no hands rests... close to full recovery it's probably mid 13 if there's not very good rests and there's really 5 v6 sections... it's harder than that.

Na im pretty certain they are v6 minimum. The last crux on the first section for example, their are two 3 finger open holds about 1/2 inch thick, body is tucked under a roof and the hands are kinde on the rim of the cave, you then go into a 2 finger single pad mono on the roof. Legs have to go left of that onto the other wall (the cave is running into a corner). Then the other hand comes to meet next to it where theirs a small 3 finger pinch, made positive by the new body position. Then you pull through with the pinch and mono making a reach over to the other wall where your feet are.

It will probably take me another few month to link it all up.. i just wanted a estimation of the grade, so i know what im working with.


ceebo


Aug 18, 2011, 4:23 PM
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Re: [essay] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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essay wrote:
ceebo wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
Depends on the availability of rests between cruxes.

I didn't think that would be a factor tbh. I hope you were not pulling my leg since im about to explain them ;p.

After the first cave with 2 cruxes spaning say 5m you get a kinde v4 ish rest poistion. Then theirs about 4-5M more climbing with another crux followed by 1M of peak v5 climbing into another kinda v4 rest position. Then you go on to some more peak v5 climbing into the main cave roof crux, after down climbing into the cave you get a shity rest on say 45 degree overhanging around v5 ish kinda holds. Then then heading out of the cave the climbing stays at v5 but gets progressively easier as the rock begins to straighten out for the last 8-10m or so.

I will more likely add more cruxes to the last run out but for now i have enough, and unable to link it all yet so ;p.

Sry, the first crux section has 3 in it. Fail visulisation skills their ;p.

This rant says your cruxes are v5. It does not say v6 or v7.

That is a huge difference on an endurance climb, so which is it? If you have 5 V6/7 in your route with no great rests, it's gonna at least be a 5.13+, maybe harder.

If you have five v5 in your route it will be a 12+ or 12- BASED ON THE RESTS.

You give people advice and talk down to them all the time, you even say your gonna piss on my head from above me because you are such an awesome climber, but you think that rests on an endurance route have no meaning? WOW. Man, I am gonna remember this rant!

You'r such a bad troll, but i'll bite anyway. My climbing skill is more than good enough.. we recorded this a few month back for a project.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1mvN6lU0oU


spikeddem


Aug 18, 2011, 4:34 PM
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I agree with essay (and everyone else that has posted) as far as the importance of rests (or lack thereof) in grading your route.


ceebo


Aug 18, 2011, 4:54 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
I agree with essay (and everyone else that has posted) as far as the importance of rests (or lack thereof) in grading your route.

Ok so a v6 move to me is a v2 to all you guys.. really, i don't care?. Just tell me what grade you would give to the below please ;/.

25M
5 v6 cruxes
v4-5 climbing inbetween cruxes
3 rests.


spikeddem


Aug 18, 2011, 5:10 PM
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ceebo wrote:
spikeddem wrote:
I agree with essay (and everyone else that has posted) as far as the importance of rests (or lack thereof) in grading your route.

Ok so a v6 move to me is a v2 to all you guys.. really, i don't care?

Well, we don't intend to downgrade your ratings. We're just saying that the rating is going to be quite high if there is as serious a lack of rests as you say there are.

Look at a route like Kick Me In The Jimmie at the RRG. There's probably no sequence on there harder than V2, but it's rated 5.12a because there are no great rests if 5.12a is your limit.

Now compare that with your route: 25 meters of sustained V4 climbing with V5 and V6 cruxes (as many as five?) in there. Take the same idea that goes into grading Kick Me in the Jimmie, and you'll see that your route would probably be graded quite highly.

ceebo wrote:
Just tell me what grade you would give to the below please ;/.

25M
5 v6 cruxes
v4-5 climbing inbetween cruxes
3 rests.

Depends on the quality and placement of the rests.


(This post was edited by spikeddem on Aug 18, 2011, 5:12 PM)


Idako


Aug 19, 2011, 5:36 AM
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Re: [spikeddem] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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I'm confused about the intermingling of the V ratings and 5.XX ratings. Does a bouldering problem move to a 5.XX rating after sustaining a certain length/duration?

Or is it more because it is a traverse so it doesn't follow the V ratings?

Sorry if this is a dumb question.

thanks,


Rufsen


Aug 19, 2011, 6:26 AM
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Re: [Idako] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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Theres no clear rules. But long traverses and long roofs are often graded as routes even if there is no need for a rope. It just gives a better idea about the difficulty of the climb.

Here is a roof that was originally graded as a V15, last guy to do it graded it as a 9a.

http://vimeo.com/27222226


jbro_135


Aug 19, 2011, 8:22 AM
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
2 finger single pad mono

Just get someone else to climb it and grade it, you are retarded.


(This post was edited by jbro_135 on Aug 23, 2011, 3:50 AM)


jross


Aug 22, 2011, 1:16 PM
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jbro_135 wrote:
http://2 finger single pad mono

Just get someone else to climb it and grade it, you are retarded.

+1

When i read about the two finger mono I assumed this was an epic troll inspired by a really slow day at work....

FWIW I have come across a few 2 bolt specials that are basically a 15 ft V7 but graded 13a (7c+)...


ceebo


Aug 23, 2011, 3:45 AM
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jross wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
http://2 finger single pad mono

Just get someone else to climb it and grade it, you are retarded.

+1

When i read about the two finger mono I assumed this was an epic troll inspired by a really slow day at work....

FWIW I have come across a few 2 bolt specials that are basically a 15 ft V7 but graded 13a (7c+)...

1 finger overlaps the other in what is a mono, i would normally just use the middle, but in this paticular hold it feels much easier to use index with middle ontop. Is a pocket not defined as having at least 2 fingers in contact with rock?, who cares.. im wrong anyway. I'm so damn sorry for that guys... what a reflection this is on my climbing and teaching ability.

I'm going to sit in the naughty corner now and have a good word with my self.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Aug 23, 2011, 3:47 AM)


essay


Aug 23, 2011, 7:56 AM
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ceebo wrote:
jross wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
http://2 finger single pad mono

Just get someone else to climb it and grade it, you are retarded.

+1

When i read about the two finger mono I assumed this was an epic troll inspired by a really slow day at work....

FWIW I have come across a few 2 bolt specials that are basically a 15 ft V7 but graded 13a (7c+)...

1 finger overlaps the other in what is a mono, i would normally just use the middle, but in this paticular hold it feels much easier to use index with middle ontop. Is a pocket not defined as having at least 2 fingers in contact with rock?, who cares.. im wrong anyway. I'm so damn sorry for that guys... what a reflection this is on my climbing and teaching ability.

I'm going to sit in the naughty corner now and have a good word with my self.


Well, I don't know about crying in the corner but this is sure a good reason to not be talking down to climbers who actually do know what is going on.


ceebo


Aug 23, 2011, 3:21 PM
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essay wrote:
ceebo wrote:
jross wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
http://2 finger single pad mono

Just get someone else to climb it and grade it, you are retarded.

+1

When i read about the two finger mono I assumed this was an epic troll inspired by a really slow day at work....

FWIW I have come across a few 2 bolt specials that are basically a 15 ft V7 but graded 13a (7c+)...

1 finger overlaps the other in what is a mono, i would normally just use the middle, but in this paticular hold it feels much easier to use index with middle ontop. Is a pocket not defined as having at least 2 fingers in contact with rock?, who cares.. im wrong anyway. I'm so damn sorry for that guys... what a reflection this is on my climbing and teaching ability.

I'm going to sit in the naughty corner now and have a good word with my self.


Well, I don't know about crying in the corner but this is sure a good reason to not be talking down to climbers who actually do know what is going on.

Feel free to link 5 topics where i have talked down to another that was not in retaliation to them doing just that to me, or another poster.

I can save you most the hastle in sorting out that retaliation down talk right now.

- Jay
- You
- Spike (some times)
- Jbro

Btw, what is going on?. Other than personal attacks for bad termonology and disbalief in difficulty of a shity little traverse at a crag that nobody gives a fuck about.

RC.com, the only forum where a simple question ends up in a complex ego fest.

Next post - L2spell fucker!11111!!!111.


(This post was edited by ceebo on Aug 23, 2011, 3:33 PM)


essay


Aug 25, 2011, 9:07 AM
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ceebo wrote:
essay wrote:
ceebo wrote:
jross wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
http://2 finger single pad mono

Just get someone else to climb it and grade it, you are retarded.

+1

When i read about the two finger mono I assumed this was an epic troll inspired by a really slow day at work....

FWIW I have come across a few 2 bolt specials that are basically a 15 ft V7 but graded 13a (7c+)...

1 finger overlaps the other in what is a mono, i would normally just use the middle, but in this paticular hold it feels much easier to use index with middle ontop. Is a pocket not defined as having at least 2 fingers in contact with rock?, who cares.. im wrong anyway. I'm so damn sorry for that guys... what a reflection this is on my climbing and teaching ability.

I'm going to sit in the naughty corner now and have a good word with my self.


Well, I don't know about crying in the corner but this is sure a good reason to not be talking down to climbers who actually do know what is going on.

Feel free to link 5 topics where i have talked down to another that was not in retaliation to them doing just that to me, or another poster.

I can save you most the hastle in sorting out that retaliation down talk right now.

- Jay
- You
- Spike (some times)
- Jbro

Btw, what is going on?. Other than personal attacks for bad termonology and disbalief in difficulty of a shity little traverse at a crag that nobody gives a fuck about.

RC.com, the only forum where a simple question ends up in a complex ego fest.

Next post - L2spell fucker!11111!!!111.


Learn to get in where you fit in Ceebo. Your terminology use says you don't even know what climbing is, I think that is why your obtuse opinions come under so much pressure. Two pad mono? You mean a finger stack? That's just an example, there are many more. We all said pretty nicely what the problems were with what you were asking, but instead of realizing there might be an issue, you denied the descrepancies that were inherit within. Now back to your corner until you have served your time. Sorry for the misspellings, fucker.


blueeyedclimber


Aug 25, 2011, 9:44 AM
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ceebo wrote:
Just tell me what grade you would give to the below please ;/.

25M
5 v6 cruxes
v4-5 climbing inbetween cruxes
3 rests.

B+.

You could have had an A if you had one more V6 crux. Try a little harder next time, will ya?

Josh


ceebo


Aug 25, 2011, 9:46 AM
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essay wrote:
ceebo wrote:
essay wrote:
ceebo wrote:
jross wrote:
jbro_135 wrote:
http://2 finger single pad mono

Just get someone else to climb it and grade it, you are retarded.

+1

When i read about the two finger mono I assumed this was an epic troll inspired by a really slow day at work....

FWIW I have come across a few 2 bolt specials that are basically a 15 ft V7 but graded 13a (7c+)...

1 finger overlaps the other in what is a mono, i would normally just use the middle, but in this paticular hold it feels much easier to use index with middle ontop. Is a pocket not defined as having at least 2 fingers in contact with rock?, who cares.. im wrong anyway. I'm so damn sorry for that guys... what a reflection this is on my climbing and teaching ability.

I'm going to sit in the naughty corner now and have a good word with my self.


Well, I don't know about crying in the corner but this is sure a good reason to not be talking down to climbers who actually do know what is going on.

Feel free to link 5 topics where i have talked down to another that was not in retaliation to them doing just that to me, or another poster.

I can save you most the hastle in sorting out that retaliation down talk right now.

- Jay
- You
- Spike (some times)
- Jbro

Btw, what is going on?. Other than personal attacks for bad termonology and disbalief in difficulty of a shity little traverse at a crag that nobody gives a fuck about.

RC.com, the only forum where a simple question ends up in a complex ego fest.

Next post - L2spell fucker!11111!!!111.


Learn to get in where you fit in Ceebo. Your terminology use says you don't even know what climbing is, I think that is why your obtuse opinions come under so much pressure. Two pad mono? You mean a finger stack? That's just an example, there are many more. We all said pretty nicely what the problems were with what you were asking, but instead of realizing there might be an issue, you denied the descrepancies that were inherit within. Now back to your corner until you have served your time. Sorry for the misspellings, fucker.

Why do you think this directly reflects climbing ability?. Is it a case of <doing> <describing> being so interlinked that one cannot operate with ought the other?. Sorry, but that shows you up as more clueless than me. Ofc, i apreciate correction on bad termonology.. but when you go on to blurt such fucking bullshit like the bolded text... i tend to think of you as nothing more than a ignorent piece of shit.

Now i know what a mono is.. and i know what a pocket is. For a second, please try to put your self in my gumby shoes. Imagine you did not know the descriptive word ''finger stack''. What exactly would you call it?. Obviusly don't bother answering that question.. becuase its direction is any other way but mine.


redonkulus


Aug 25, 2011, 10:41 AM
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ceebo wrote:
Feel free to link 5 topics where i have talked down to another that was not in retaliation to them doing just that to me, or another poster.

I can save you most the hastle in sorting out that retaliation down talk right now.

- Jay
- You
- Spike (some times)
- Jbro

Ooh, Ooh! Don't forget me!


funk


Aug 25, 2011, 12:47 PM
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Re: [ceebo] Grading a traverse? [In reply to]
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V7 - it's as hard as its crux.
I have a traverse that's about 20m, V6 trav into a V9 bloc, into a V6 trav, all super steep. we call it a V9 or solid 5.13.

ps. only RC.com elitist shitheads care about proper terminology. chances are that in two years you'll be lapping their projects anyway, if you're not already. i care about your incorrect usage of "their" vs. "there". read up, son.

(This post was edited by funk on Aug 25, 2011, 12:52 PM)

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