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CapnStorm


Aug 21, 2011, 7:03 AM
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Training Routine HELP
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Hi, I'm currently comfortably doing V3's(I know, not high at all) and I've been climbing for 6 months now. I've recently purchased the Metolious rock rings and am confused as to whether I should just do open-hand repeaters(of which I can only do 1 rep of 6-8 seconds) or use the Metolious beginner/intermediate/advanced 10-minute section.

So my routine is....
Repeaters:
1 rep of repeaters
1 minute break
1 minute - 2 pull ups
1 minute - 20 seconds 90 degree hang, 5 seconds 75 and 5 seconds dead hang
(I repeat this up and down the holds in this order jug, medium(4 fingers), 3 fingers and off-set and finish on the 10th minute with hanging on as long as I can.

and with the Metolious 10-minute workout I am comfortably/able to do Intermediate.

I workout every 2 days so....Monday, Wednesday and Fridays are my climbing gym days.


rhythm164


Aug 21, 2011, 7:55 AM
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Re: [CapnStorm] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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Im a little confused by what you mean when you say 1 'rep' of repeaters. Are you doing one 6-8 second hang and then resting for 1 minute? Basically when doing repeaters you want to hang 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off; that's one rep. do that 6 times, that's 1 set, between sets a 3 minute rest is generally what you want to aim for. If you've only been climbing 6 months this will likely lead to injury before you see any strength gains. With so little experience, the hangboard is not really something you should be super focused on. If i were you, I'd put time into technique drills (see The Self-Coached Climber) then trying to blast strength exercises, as it's mostly likely your shoddy footwork, thrutching, and imprecision that's holding you back (I'm not trying to be an asshoe, but trust my, 6 months in; you exhibit all of these traits).

If you simply MUST hangboard, I'd stick with the easiest workout that Metolius prescribes. None of the hangboard workouts that come with your board are super awesome, but if I were you, I'd focus on building a base before you start tweaking the workouts, and just looking at what you've listed below as the hangboard routine you've been doing, you should realy focus on building that base. Just remember taht muscle matures much much faster that tendon strength, so even though you may feel "strong", overdoing it on a hangboard when you're 6 months in is a surefire way to injure yourself.

You could have a look at the Moon Climbing and Nicros sites, most of the stuff they talk about is probably going to be alittle more advanced than you want to attempt right now, but dial it back a couple (dozen) notches and it could be applicable. There's also some descent info about injury prevention and recovery out there. Read it.

Good luck!


(This post was edited by rhythm164 on Aug 21, 2011, 7:56 AM)


CapnStorm


Aug 21, 2011, 8:08 AM
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Re: [rhythm164] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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Yes, Hi! Thanks for getting back so quickly. When I say repeaters I mean 6-8 seconds up 3 seconds rest and do that 10 times and thats 1 rep :]. When you say working on technique, what do you mean like going to the gym. Sadly, I can only afford to go once a week as the local gym is about 40 mins away from me. Sorry to be a pest but could I get a link to the 'Self-Coached Climber' was it(thanks so much) Oh and yes I am aware of the basic 'rules'/guidelines of hangboarding like stop if you feel any pain and dont get on till its completely gone, don't overwork yourself(taper), R&R etc

Thanks again :]


johnwesely


Aug 21, 2011, 8:11 AM
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Re: [CapnStorm] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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CapnStorm wrote:
Yes, Hi! Thanks for getting back so quickly. When I say repeaters I mean 6-8 seconds up 3 seconds rest and do that 10 times and thats 1 rep :]. When you say working on technique, what do you mean like going to the gym. Sadly, I can only afford to go once a week as the local gym is about 40 mins away from me. Sorry to be a pest but could I get a link to the 'Self-Coached Climber' was it(thanks so much) Oh and yes I am aware of the basic 'rules'/guidelines of hangboarding like stop if you feel any pain and dont get on till its completely gone, don't overwork yourself(taper), R&R etc

Thanks again :]

Repeaters sound like a pretty good way to get injured on the hangboard. Generally, you want to be as cognizant as possible of your body's signals while hangboarding, and introducing an aspect of anaerobic endurance is going to make that extremely difficult


CapnStorm


Aug 21, 2011, 8:14 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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Oh...:/ Well in that case, I should stop shouldn't I?... Uhm, what would you recommend?

P.s: So it's clear I didn't come up with repeaters if you didn't know :] Just something I picked up on the forums?


(This post was edited by CapnStorm on Aug 21, 2011, 8:15 AM)


rhythm164


Aug 21, 2011, 8:25 AM
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Re: [CapnStorm] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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you need a link to find the self coached climber? seriously? ever heard of Google? I'm not doing your math homework for you either, so dont even ask.

Repeaters are actually an excellent way to incorporate hypertrophy into a workout, although if done right you do need a good period of rest after a session, and yea, I would wait until you've built up a base level of fitness before including these in your workouts. and im not talking about waiting until you've been climbing for 8 months.

Sucks that you cnt get to the gym a little more often, but right now, the best raining for climbing you can do is just going climbing. i guess i would advise you to start being a little more pro-active and begin to surf around to the different websites and start reading. it would serve you better than relying on the forums to provide you answers, i mean lets face it, non of us have any idea what we're talking about anyways right?Wink

good luck!


johnwesely


Aug 21, 2011, 8:28 AM
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Re: [CapnStorm] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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CapnStorm wrote:
Oh...:/ Well in that case, I should stop shouldn't I?... Uhm, what would you recommend?

P.s: So it's clear I didn't come up with repeaters if you didn't know :] Just something I picked up on the forums?

At your stage in the game, I would do long, maybe up to a minute, hangs on easier holds. The anaerobic component of repeaters is going to make it really difficult for you to listen to your body.


CapnStorm


Aug 21, 2011, 8:32 AM
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Re: [rhythm164] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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Oh :P sorry I honestly thought it was a post on the forums XD but I found it and so far it seems good cant wait to put it to practice. With 'other' websites, would they be the other two you mentioned earlier? Btw, thanks for all the help :]


CapnStorm


Aug 21, 2011, 8:34 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] Training Routine HELP [In reply to]
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Minute hangs and minute rests?(sorry) :]


johnwesely


Aug 21, 2011, 8:44 AM
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CapnStorm wrote:
Minute hangs and minute rests?(sorry) :]

Rest until you feel normal. It is really dangerous hangboarding at your stage in the game, so I would be very conservative. It is worth sacrificing gains if it keeps you away from injury.


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