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Loose Bolts at Rattlesnake Ontario
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ecade


Aug 29, 2011, 9:00 AM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
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Loose Bolts at Rattlesnake Ontario
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Morning,

Hope everyone was able to get out and enjoy a nice weekend of fun and safe climbing.

Was climbing a sport route at Rattlesnake in Milton Ontario, by the lower parking lot, I have no clue what its called but can describe the area in more detail to someone who is versed in the area. I think its 7 clips to anchors, has an overhang, grade is probably a 5.9 at best.

Anyways, first bolt of the route was very loose, like you could have removed it by hand. I dont know the ettiquette for the area, personally I think it should be removed so that you don't have a sense of false security, better to know what you are getting into rather than finding out the hardway. But not knowing who i might piss off, I left it and figured i'd write bout it.

So, does anyone know who maintains that area? another climber at the crag said it wasn't OAC so I have no clue who should be contacted.

Happy and Safe climbing,

Cheers


binrat


Aug 29, 2011, 12:27 PM
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Re: [ecade] Loose Bolts at Rattlesnake Ontario [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:
Morning,

Hope everyone was able to get out and enjoy a nice weekend of fun and safe climbing.

Was climbing a sport route at Rattlesnake in Milton Ontario, by the lower parking lot, I have no clue what its called but can describe the area in more detail to someone who is versed in the area. I think its 7 clips to anchors, has an overhang, grade is probably a 5.9 at best.

Anyways, first bolt of the route was very loose, like you could have removed it by hand. I dont know the ettiquette for the area, personally I think it should be removed so that you don't have a sense of false security, better to know what you are getting into rather than finding out the hardway. But not knowing who i might piss off, I left it and figured i'd write bout it.

So, does anyone know who maintains that area? another climber at the crag said it wasn't OAC so I have no clue who should be contacted.

Happy and Safe climbing,

Cheers
Is that the one on the south end of a pinnacle?? If so its a 5.7 (I think).


ecade


Aug 30, 2011, 6:33 AM
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Re: [binrat] Loose Bolts at Rattlesnake Ontario [In reply to]
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It is on the south side of a pinnacle, but not the main pinnacle that is near upper parking lot right of steps. The route begins straight then veers left of bolts until 4th clip (i think) when you veer back to the right of the bolts to get a little higher up and then overhang that has clip to left, then two just above it to the right, the anchors. Its got a lot of bolts on the route of that length. I have no clue what the grade is, perhaps i'm out of shape if i thought it was a 5.9 :)

Either way, this is unimportant except for identifying the route, the important question is who to contact for the bolts? and what is the ettiquette for the area?

Cheers


granite_grrl


Aug 30, 2011, 11:45 AM
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Re: [ecade] Loose Bolts at Rattlesnake Ontario [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:
Either way, this is unimportant except for identifying the route, the important question is who to contact for the bolts? and what is the ettiquette for the area?

If you have a wrench, tighten it. Otherwise bring a wrench with you next time. By posting it here hopefully it'll be tightened before you get back to it, but it might not.


ecade


Aug 30, 2011, 2:18 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Loose Bolts at Rattlesnake Ontario [In reply to]
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Thanks for the quick reply,

Another climber at the crag had said that the bolt had been hammered and possibly the threading ripped. If that is the case will wrenching it tighter be of any use?
I have no clue how to bolt and won't be at Rattlesnake till next monday, i'll bring a wrench though but would prefer someone who knows what they are doing look at the matter. Or teach me, and I will gladly go back and fix it.


granite_grrl


Aug 31, 2011, 5:17 AM
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Re: [ecade] Loose Bolts at Rattlesnake Ontario [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:
Thanks for the quick reply,

Another climber at the crag had said that the bolt had been hammered and possibly the threading ripped. If that is the case will wrenching it tighter be of any use?
I have no clue how to bolt and won't be at Rattlesnake till next monday, i'll bring a wrench though but would prefer someone who knows what they are doing look at the matter. Or teach me, and I will gladly go back and fix it.
Actually, the hubby reminded me how many crappy bolts are on the escarpment and how trying to tighten them could be bad news, so my suggestion was hasty.


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